Going 12's
03-03-2004, 01:44 PM
#81
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by venompwr2
No it wouldnt take that much to get there. That much could do it, but it can also be done for much cheaper too, as long as you know what you're doing.
The question is...Do you want weekend power? or everyday power?
03-03-2004, 01:56 PM
#82
Originally Posted by ilumo
4. laugh away then. there's 100's of org members running N20... but, only 3 of them in the 12's? wow... WHY is that? its so cheap right, for 1200$, you can get a 12 sec car. I just find it funny that you are preaching how cheap it is, and how reliable it can be... but SO LITTLE people have done it.
Come on now... wasnt the whole point of your arguments ... you can run 12's reliably with nitrous for < $1200.
You run cheap, you are going to EFF something up. Im SURE that those hundreds of people who have N20 and have run on the track are EDUCATED, and know that its not as simple as you say it is... or else, guess what, we would have 100+ org members in the 12s. now don't make excuses saying, well their goals aren't 12s, etc etc... if you can get 12's for 1200$, A LOT MORE people would be doing it...
You can also preach all you want about JIMEs time, but I beleive that his car is a freak, being able to handle all that stress from the repeated hard launchs, and nitrous shots.
Anyway... I'm not adding anything... I just thought those things were given. Who wants a car you can only run 12s at the track. I believe the POSTER was asking more for daily drivable power... hence my arguments.
If hes just asking for straight up drag racing, at the track... fine, go N20.
Come on now... wasnt the whole point of your arguments ... you can run 12's reliably with nitrous for < $1200.
You run cheap, you are going to EFF something up. Im SURE that those hundreds of people who have N20 and have run on the track are EDUCATED, and know that its not as simple as you say it is... or else, guess what, we would have 100+ org members in the 12s. now don't make excuses saying, well their goals aren't 12s, etc etc... if you can get 12's for 1200$, A LOT MORE people would be doing it...
You can also preach all you want about JIMEs time, but I beleive that his car is a freak, being able to handle all that stress from the repeated hard launchs, and nitrous shots.
Anyway... I'm not adding anything... I just thought those things were given. Who wants a car you can only run 12s at the track. I believe the POSTER was asking more for daily drivable power... hence my arguments.
If hes just asking for straight up drag racing, at the track... fine, go N20.
03-03-2004, 01:59 PM
#83
Originally Posted by ilumo
Yes, that has been covered.
The question is...Do you want weekend power? or everyday power?
The question is...Do you want weekend power? or everyday power?
03-03-2004, 02:34 PM
#84
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally Posted by ilumo
I know... but I dont want to risk my virgin tranny with slicks... but maybe with heavier 18's and some wide grippy tires, I could get more traction.
Wide, heavy, low profile wheels/tires DO NOT help traction. Good God how cold will it have to get in hell before anyone understands this? Why do people think heavy rims somehow induce some sort bog which increases traction. Intercooled SC? You'd better do some research and I wouldn't touch that HCI article with a 10' pole. If you want to cool your intake charge with a SC then get a Vortech aftercooler. SCs behave completely different from a turbo in terms of cooling the intake charge.
Going 12s with your setup will be all, but impossible on street tires. The centrifugal SC is great from roll-on races, but it sucks for drag racing because it delivers a linear powerband and not a lot of torque. Nitrous and turbos are so effective because they deliver large amounts of mid and upper range torque. Power under the curve is key.
Like Jime and Blu have said, it takes race tires to race a car competively. It's like showing up a knife to gun fight. If you want to be serious about racing, you use race tires. There's no way around it. Look at Hal. His turbo was barely running 12s when he had ~380fwhp. His problem was traction or a lack of. Why have so much power if you can't put it to the ground? Just like the saying goes, what's a 400hp Supra have in common with a 800hp Supra? They both run 12s.
To go quick in the 1/4 mile it takes two important things:
1) lots of torque
2) lots of traction
98% of the races on the strip are won in the first 150'.
As for the fragility of the Maxima tranny, any tranny will fail when a lot more power is pushed through it regardless if you're launching, accelerating through a gear, or changing a gear. I get so tired of people *****ing about how weak the Maxima tranny is when they're pushing 30+% more power. If you choose to race or modify, expect things to break. You can definately prolong tranny life by doing things like slipping the clutch a little on a high rpms launch or granny shifting. My idea of a weak or poor tranny is one that fails under normal driving.
Dave
03-03-2004, 03:21 PM
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by Dave B
Wide, heavy, low profile wheels/tires DO NOT help traction. Good God how cold will it have to get in hell before anyone understands this? Why do people think heavy rims somehow induce some sort bog which increases traction. Intercooled SC? You'd better do some research and I wouldn't touch that HCI article with a 10' pole. If you want to cool your intake charge with a SC then get a Vortech aftercooler. SCs behave completely different from a turbo in terms of cooling the intake charge.
Going 12s with your setup will be all, but impossible on street tires. The centrifugal SC is great from roll-on races, but it sucks for drag racing because it delivers a linear powerband and not a lot of torque. Nitrous and turbos are so effective because they deliver large amounts of mid and upper range torque. Power under the curve is key.
Like Jime and Blu have said, it takes race tires to race a car competively. It's like showing up a knife to gun fight. If you want to be serious about racing, you use race tires. There's no way around it. Look at Hal. His turbo was barely running 12s when he had ~380fwhp. His problem was traction or a lack of. Why have so much power if you can't put it to the ground? Just like the saying goes, what's a 400hp Supra have in common with a 800hp Supra? They both run 12s.
To go quick in the 1/4 mile it takes two important things:
1) lots of torque
2) lots of traction
98% of the races on the strip are won in the first 150'.
As for the fragility of the Maxima tranny, any tranny will fail when a lot more power is pushed through it regardless if you're launching, accelerating through a gear, or changing a gear. I get so tired of people *****ing about how weak the Maxima tranny is when they're pushing 30+% more power. If you choose to race or modify, expect things to break. You can definately prolong tranny life by doing things like slipping the clutch a little on a high rpms launch or granny shifting. My idea of a weak or poor tranny is one that fails under normal driving.
Dave
2. I have done my research. I know that the S/C charge is a magnitude cooler than the turbo, psi for psi
But at that level of boost, the heat generated will be SUFFICIENT for the intercooler to do some work. I estimate 180*F intake charge temps, where ambient will be around 70F. I hope that the efficiency will be good, but I know it wont be as good as the turbos. Nevertheless, it will STILL NET SOME GAINS. Please... I've been preached by many others that the IC with S/C doesnt work in these sitituations, yet I havent seen a single dyno proving that.AFtercooler? bahhh... I want daily drivability. Once that ice melts, your efficiecy is going to be ****tier than the air to air.
3. Please... I didnt say i could run the 12's WITHOUT the slicks. stop putting words in my mouth. I just said I have SUFFICIENT power UNDER the curve to run the 12s. WITH or WITHOUT slicks. with = definite, without = dont know
4. Yes, of course any transmission will fail. but some just prone to fail easier. And the maxima tranny is one on that list. And "dumping" your clutch at a high rpm with tons of torque is a surefire way to accelerate that failure... MUCH faster than just running thorough a gear.
Like i said before and ill reiterate again... this is not a ****ing match... Im not here to offend anyone. If my statements are incorrect, feel free to correct me. but I still beleive I can get 12's... with the slicks, and maybe without. we will see
03-03-2004, 03:25 PM
#86
Originally Posted by ilumo
thats not pouting... that s 'rolling my eyes' In anycase, I just don't want the noobs thinking, ohh wow... 1200$, i can get a 12 sec car! I'm letting them know about the downfalls of trying to acheive that time with so little money. Without proper knowledge, these guys are going to put a 100 shot, detonate like hell, and blow up their engine... If it can be done for 1200$, please someone do a writeup, with all the necessary steps, all the necessary precautions, and other information pertaining to a correct and reliable setup.
For me, im sticking with a $4000 '12 sec at all times' upgrade...
dang you mean i waisted all this money for nothing..and probably
still cant hit 12. i know nitrous would do it, but what about everything else too make it safe and not blow up.
03-03-2004, 04:29 PM
#87
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 905
Girls, erm i mean Guys, why all the bickering.
Ok let me clarify some things. The thought i had in mind to acheive 12's was in basic street trim. Taking out the spare or removing the front seat is ok, but i wasn't talking about taking out a headlight for ram air, jacking up the rear, taking the bumpers off, etc. This would be something that you could at the flip of a switch(n20) or program(turbo)[s/c is in there too] you would be off in a 12 second car.
Edit: I'm not talking about achieving this with a fly by night and by the seat of your pants mentality. One would just be asking for trouble by running on the edge all the time. I was assuming that one would take the proper steps to insure they have safegaurds in place to prevent a catastrophic break down and prolong the reliability and longevity of our beloved Maxima.
Ok let me clarify some things. The thought i had in mind to acheive 12's was in basic street trim. Taking out the spare or removing the front seat is ok, but i wasn't talking about taking out a headlight for ram air, jacking up the rear, taking the bumpers off, etc. This would be something that you could at the flip of a switch(n20) or program(turbo)[s/c is in there too] you would be off in a 12 second car.
Edit: I'm not talking about achieving this with a fly by night and by the seat of your pants mentality. One would just be asking for trouble by running on the edge all the time. I was assuming that one would take the proper steps to insure they have safegaurds in place to prevent a catastrophic break down and prolong the reliability and longevity of our beloved Maxima.
03-03-2004, 04:49 PM
#88
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 905
Ok so lets get down to the nitty gritty.
Jime if a forget or miss something fill it in for me.
Also, if i added something that you didn't use then adjust accordingly.
seperate fuel cell-
aux fuel pump-
**BTW how do you get the aux fuel pump to work in conjunction with the nitrous setup...i'm guessing the pump couldn't be on all the time? help me understand this part please**
misc fuel lines and connections-
n2o wet kit-
bottle warmer-
nitrous pressure gauge-
egt and/or A/F gauge-
cold air intake-
Y-pipe-
^after the pipe is the cat gutted?
free flow exhaust-
slicks-
rims for slicks-
suspention tweaks(reinforcing the rear)-
race seats-
repeated trail and error trips at the track-
tuning-
udp?-
So now with the best of your recolection(sp?) could you put your honest to goodness cost on these things?
Jime if a forget or miss something fill it in for me.
Also, if i added something that you didn't use then adjust accordingly.
seperate fuel cell-
aux fuel pump-
**BTW how do you get the aux fuel pump to work in conjunction with the nitrous setup...i'm guessing the pump couldn't be on all the time? help me understand this part please**
misc fuel lines and connections-
n2o wet kit-
bottle warmer-
nitrous pressure gauge-
egt and/or A/F gauge-
cold air intake-
Y-pipe-
^after the pipe is the cat gutted?
free flow exhaust-
slicks-
rims for slicks-
suspention tweaks(reinforcing the rear)-
race seats-
repeated trail and error trips at the track-
tuning-
udp?-
So now with the best of your recolection(sp?) could you put your honest to goodness cost on these things?
03-03-2004, 05:04 PM
#89
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 905
Originally Posted by C MAX
please tell me how i can make a 12 sec max for 1200 too.
dang you mean i waisted all this money for nothing..and probably
still cant hit 12. i know nitrous would do it, but what about everything else too make it safe and not blow up.
dang you mean i waisted all this money for nothing..and probably
still cant hit 12. i know nitrous would do it, but what about everything else too make it safe and not blow up.
I know right? If this is all it took then everyone that had a goal to have a moderately fast Maxima would be in there like swimwear, especially if they had an auto. How can you screw up launch after launch in an auto, you can't. You work at it to find something that works good, and repeat. No worries about f'ing up the sliping of the clutch or missing shifts, etc. There is more to this equation than slapping a bottle and slicks on.
Back on topic, how much did you all say you would spend to break the 12's?
03-03-2004, 05:28 PM
#90
Originally Posted by tampamax
Ok so lets get down to the nitty gritty.
Jime if a forget or miss something fill it in for me.
Also, if i added something that you didn't use then adjust accordingly.
seperate fuel cell-$90
aux fuel pump-$35 Ebay
**BTW how do you get the aux fuel pump to work in conjunction with the nitrous setup...i'm guessing the pump couldn't be on all the time? help me understand this part please** (Fuel pump has separate switch that must be on for nitrous system to arm, only turned on in burnout area)
misc fuel lines and connections-$50
n2o wet kit-$345 partial sponsorship by NX
bottle warmer-Donated by friend
nitrous pressure gauge-Donated
egt and/or A/F gauge-EGT $125
cold air intake-$45 EBay
Y-pipe-see below
^after the pipe is the cat gutted?
free flow exhaust-complete exhaust from Budget $314 includes y-pipe, test pipe and B-pipe, muffler was $65 from Vibrant
slicks-donated they were 2 years old, they are now 4 years old and still going.
rims for slicks-$150
suspention tweaks(reinforcing the rear)-$5 worth of rubber material
race seats-$61.50 ea x 2
repeated trail and error trips at the track-I race every second weekend, other than that I only did 1 test and tune at the track
tuning-? Not required this is Nitrous Express
udp?-$75
Fuel Pressure Gauge Mechanical- $12 It sits on the outside of my windshield.
Trans Cooler - $50
So now with the best of your recolection(sp?) could put your honest to goodness cost on these things?
Jime if a forget or miss something fill it in for me.
Also, if i added something that you didn't use then adjust accordingly.
seperate fuel cell-$90
aux fuel pump-$35 Ebay
**BTW how do you get the aux fuel pump to work in conjunction with the nitrous setup...i'm guessing the pump couldn't be on all the time? help me understand this part please** (Fuel pump has separate switch that must be on for nitrous system to arm, only turned on in burnout area)
misc fuel lines and connections-$50
n2o wet kit-$345 partial sponsorship by NX
bottle warmer-Donated by friend
nitrous pressure gauge-Donated
egt and/or A/F gauge-EGT $125
cold air intake-$45 EBay
Y-pipe-see below
^after the pipe is the cat gutted?
free flow exhaust-complete exhaust from Budget $314 includes y-pipe, test pipe and B-pipe, muffler was $65 from Vibrant
slicks-donated they were 2 years old, they are now 4 years old and still going.
rims for slicks-$150
suspention tweaks(reinforcing the rear)-$5 worth of rubber material
race seats-$61.50 ea x 2
repeated trail and error trips at the track-I race every second weekend, other than that I only did 1 test and tune at the track
tuning-? Not required this is Nitrous Express
udp?-$75
Fuel Pressure Gauge Mechanical- $12 It sits on the outside of my windshield.
Trans Cooler - $50
So now with the best of your recolection(sp?) could put your honest to goodness cost on these things?
There are probably some things I forgot but if I did they are small $ items. In the Modified article they quoted $1700 but that included the 2 Stage which I never did get to try last year.
Since I have purchased the 2 Stage, Wideband, S-AFC II, etc etc but it has not been operational yet. Thats for this year along with Hotshot Headers, Illuminas, etc for the 2k2.
BTW Picked up the new car last night, it has 20k miles on it and I can't believe the increase in power over the 3.0L. Going to start modding this weekend.
03-03-2004, 06:05 PM
#91
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by Jime
Total $1479
There are probably some things I forgot but if I did they are small $ items. In the Modified article they quoted $1700 but that included the 2 Stage which I never did get to try last year.
Since I have purchased the 2 Stage, Wideband, S-AFC II, etc etc but it has not been operational yet. Thats for this year along with Hotshot Headers, Illuminas, etc for the 2k2.
BTW Picked up the new car last night, it has 20k miles on it and I can't believe the increase in power over the 3.0L. Going to start modding this weekend.
There are probably some things I forgot but if I did they are small $ items. In the Modified article they quoted $1700 but that included the 2 Stage which I never did get to try last year.
Since I have purchased the 2 Stage, Wideband, S-AFC II, etc etc but it has not been operational yet. Thats for this year along with Hotshot Headers, Illuminas, etc for the 2k2.
BTW Picked up the new car last night, it has 20k miles on it and I can't believe the increase in power over the 3.0L. Going to start modding this weekend.
03-03-2004, 06:10 PM
#92
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 87
you can hit 12s on street tires in a FWD car. i almost did it in the SE-R. Ran an 8.3@99 in the 1/8th. that is more than enough traction and power for mid 12s. But, alas, it wasnt to be so. I accidentally bumped the boost controller **** shifting into 4th and cranked it from 22 psi to 30 psi. damned stock bottom end didnt like that for some reason. hit a 13.4@99 in the 1/4 coasting the rest of the way in. hehe. this on on 205-40-17s and 2.5* neg camber (hey, i road race a lot). 2.09 60'. now, the SE-R may not be the best comparison, it is over 500 lbs lighter and has a ridiculous amount of power, but it still proves it isnt that hard. hell, i think my lack of curb weight was hurting me, as i couldnt floor it in 2nd gear without blowing the tires away. the total for the power mods was ~$3000.
i drive the SE-R mainly on the weekends, and i want to finally hit mid 11s and 130 mph in the 1/4 on the stock block. but, now that the SE-R really has nothing left to do to it (and consequently daily street use, CA sucks for high powered cars, cops like to pull you over every chance they get) i want to see what i can do with the max but keep the daily drivability and peace and quiet (SE-R has solid motor mounts, rock hard suspension, etc). I will keep the forum informed.
i drive the SE-R mainly on the weekends, and i want to finally hit mid 11s and 130 mph in the 1/4 on the stock block. but, now that the SE-R really has nothing left to do to it (and consequently daily street use, CA sucks for high powered cars, cops like to pull you over every chance they get) i want to see what i can do with the max but keep the daily drivability and peace and quiet (SE-R has solid motor mounts, rock hard suspension, etc). I will keep the forum informed.
03-03-2004, 06:29 PM
#93
Originally Posted by ilumo
Jime, which wideband setup did you get? Im in the market for one right now... and the one at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ has caught my eye. Its pretty pricey, but well worth it for tuning, im sure
I did have to pay $6 for a 32k memory addon which I just got today, as well it will hook up to a Palm or Laptop.
Have not tried it out on the Max yet but we tuned my Son's DSM with it and its very easy and accurate.
The other thing I really like about it is the sensor is a 7057 Bosch unit and can be purchased for $28 from your local VW dealer, so I plan on having one permanently installed and another for a spare and to tune friends cars with.
I did fine without all this S-AFC II, WBo2 etc etc but it sure is nice to know that its all working the way it should be and is tuned for maximum output and safety.
03-04-2004, 03:19 AM
#95
Originally Posted by Jime
Total $1479
There are probably some things I forgot but if I did they are small $ items. In the Modified article they quoted $1700 but that included the 2 Stage which I never did get to try last year.
Since I have purchased the 2 Stage, Wideband, S-AFC II, etc etc but it has not been operational yet. Thats for this year along with Hotshot Headers, Illuminas, etc for the 2k2.
BTW Picked up the new car last night, it has 20k miles on it and I can't believe the increase in power over the 3.0L. Going to start modding this weekend.
There are probably some things I forgot but if I did they are small $ items. In the Modified article they quoted $1700 but that included the 2 Stage which I never did get to try last year.
Since I have purchased the 2 Stage, Wideband, S-AFC II, etc etc but it has not been operational yet. Thats for this year along with Hotshot Headers, Illuminas, etc for the 2k2.
BTW Picked up the new car last night, it has 20k miles on it and I can't believe the increase in power over the 3.0L. Going to start modding this weekend.
03-04-2004, 11:43 AM
#96
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
how fast would a max run if we put a vq35 into it with a 6 speed and a turbo? that would be one sick maxima then.
its actually in the works...VQ35 bottom end with VQ30 heads and a turbo...dont know which tranny....the guy who is doing it will definitely have the baddest Max on the Org and in the world too for that matter.
03-04-2004, 03:03 PM
#98
Guest
Posts: n/a
why is the guy using vq30 heads?
and if he does use vq30 heads, he wont be the baddest maxima on the org. i will lol. cause my bro and i are going to attempt the impossible soon. stick his vq35(the whole thing) and his 6 speed into my 4th gen maxima soon. just waitning until my bro gets a spare car so he can dissasamble his max cause it is a daily driver for him.
and if he does use vq30 heads, he wont be the baddest maxima on the org. i will lol. cause my bro and i are going to attempt the impossible soon. stick his vq35(the whole thing) and his 6 speed into my 4th gen maxima soon. just waitning until my bro gets a spare car so he can dissasamble his max cause it is a daily driver for him.
03-04-2004, 03:59 PM
#99
i think that this thread is the funniest that i've ever read. I by no means qualify to be a pro in the racing world but all that matters is what happens on the track. having a 12sec car on the street isnt gonna do anything for you. You still have to go the speed limit. Don't get me wrong i would love to have a insanley powerfull car all the time but the only thing that matters is who gets down the track first. I know people who go to the track all the time and they try their best to go faster all on a budget. Hell if i had the money to be blowing away i would be driving somethings else. As for me i have one or two more mods to go and then i will start to look for a spray set-up and i plan to copy jime if he lets me. **** if i can just beat ceasears time then ill be happy.
Will
Will
03-04-2004, 04:40 PM
#100
Originally Posted by ilumo
My setup is in my sig. but fine,let me list it here as well.
Performance:
Middle Eastern Variable Intake
Cattman SS Y-pipe
ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
Infinity I30t VLSD tranny
Infinity I30t Axles
JWT Popcharger Intake
Random Technology Cat
Stillen Flywheel
Stillen B-pipe
Stillen Rear Exhaust
Stillen Short-throw shifter
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Vortech V1 Supercharger
2.75" Supercharger Pulley
XS Intercooler with HKS Skyline Endtanks "BIG"
2.75 inch piping
3.5 inch cold air intake with filter
Blitz Blowoff Valve
ASP Stainless steel pully tensioner and idler pulley
Gatorback pulley belt
Vortech FUel Management Unit with recal kit
AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator
Apexi Super Air Flow Controller
370cc 300zxTT fuel injectors
Have a WSP 3" full exhaust waiting for me, but dont know if im putting it on. we'll see. I plan on ~350 +whp. and expecting traps of 110+. plenty for 12 sec times. Now, if I dare use slicks and risk my tranny. we'll see.
Performance:
Middle Eastern Variable Intake
Cattman SS Y-pipe
ClutchMasters Stage 3 Clutch
Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
Infinity I30t VLSD tranny
Infinity I30t Axles
JWT Popcharger Intake
Random Technology Cat
Stillen Flywheel
Stillen B-pipe
Stillen Rear Exhaust
Stillen Short-throw shifter
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Vortech V1 Supercharger
2.75" Supercharger Pulley
XS Intercooler with HKS Skyline Endtanks "BIG"
2.75 inch piping
3.5 inch cold air intake with filter
Blitz Blowoff Valve
ASP Stainless steel pully tensioner and idler pulley
Gatorback pulley belt
Vortech FUel Management Unit with recal kit
AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator
Apexi Super Air Flow Controller
370cc 300zxTT fuel injectors
Have a WSP 3" full exhaust waiting for me, but dont know if im putting it on. we'll see. I plan on ~350 +whp. and expecting traps of 110+. plenty for 12 sec times. Now, if I dare use slicks and risk my tranny. we'll see.
03-04-2004, 04:47 PM
#101
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
i think that this thread is the funniest that i've ever read. I by no means qualify to be a pro in the racing world but all that matters is what happens on the track. having a 12sec car on the street isnt gonna do anything for you. You still have to go the speed limit. Don't get me wrong i would love to have a insanley powerfull car all the time but the only thing that matters is who gets down the track first. I know people who go to the track all the time and they try their best to go faster all on a budget. Hell if i had the money to be blowing away i would be driving somethings else. As for me i have one or two more mods to go and then i will start to look for a spray set-up and i plan to copy jime if he lets me. **** if i can just beat ceasears time then ill be happy.
Will
Will
Anything I can do to help you let me know.
03-04-2004, 05:41 PM
#102
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by krismax
I'll go 12's NA cheaper than this. Probably about $4500
03-04-2004, 06:01 PM
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
i think that this thread is the funniest that i've ever read. I by no means qualify to be a pro in the racing world but all that matters is what happens on the track. having a 12sec car on the street isnt gonna do anything for you. You still have to go the speed limit. Don't get me wrong i would love to have a insanley powerfull car all the time but the only thing that matters is who gets down the track first. I know people who go to the track all the time and they try their best to go faster all on a budget. Hell if i had the money to be blowing away i would be driving somethings else. As for me i have one or two more mods to go and then i will start to look for a spray set-up and i plan to copy jime if he lets me. **** if i can just beat ceasears time then ill be happy.
Will
Will
The only thing that matters is who gets down the track first... Maybe you... but I rather get enjoyment from accomplishing the goal I set out. whether it be 14 sec or 13 sec or 12 sec times.
Well, if you had money to be blowing away, then go ahead and get your "something else". I could get something else, but I decide not to. How many 12 second maximas do you know of? Would it be great to wipe the smirk off that AMERICAN MUSCLE V8 LS1's face when you pass him with a 4 door family sedan? That would be priceless.
For me, its about exclusitivity, about a challenge. How easy would it be to spend 10k on a LS1, then get I/H/E mods, and be deep in the 12s? Thats too easy... and some people dont like that... People mod for different reasons... no 1 reason is the correct one.
03-04-2004, 06:11 PM
#104
dont get me wrong, i love my max but i dont live at a track. I live in northern new jersey and i already have traction issues with my car. i can only imagine what it would be like to drive a car with 3-400hp on tap all the time. I wouldnt make it into my driveway if it snows with that much power. Hey and i got goals too, i wanna break 200fwhp with my max and i hope to get to that soon, but as for the track if i ever go i would run no2 cause i think its the best way to go. But then again i enjoy reading about u guys that go turbo or s/c and post up dyno numbers that make my friends with M3's, 300zxtt and srt-4's crap thier pants. I just hope that u guys be very safe with all that power on the road.
Ohh and jime when i get my mods installed in two weeks and solve my tranny leak i shall bug the hell out you for some info....
Will
Ohh and jime when i get my mods installed in two weeks and solve my tranny leak i shall bug the hell out you for some info....
Will
03-04-2004, 06:22 PM
#105
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 654
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
dont get me wrong, i love my max but i dont live at a track. I live in northern new jersey and i already have traction issues with my car. i can only imagine what it would be like to drive a car with 3-400hp on tap all the time. I wouldnt make it into my driveway if it snows with that much power. Hey and i got goals too, i wanna break 200fwhp with my max and i hope to get to that soon, but as for the track if i ever go i would run no2 cause i think its the best way to go. But then again i enjoy reading about u guys that go turbo or s/c and post up dyno numbers that make my friends with M3's, 300zxtt and srt-4's crap thier pants. I just hope that u guys be very safe with all that power on the road.
Ohh and jime when i get my mods installed in two weeks and solve my tranny leak i shall bug the hell out you for some info....
Will
Ohh and jime when i get my mods installed in two weeks and solve my tranny leak i shall bug the hell out you for some info....
Will
It should be the same as driving a N/A car then. + fwd on the maximas will help with the snow. I live in the northeast too
03-04-2004, 06:33 PM
#106
fwd helps with the snow????? my car must be the factory retart or something cause all my other cars ( toyota previa, 300zx, c220, c280) all drive better then my max in the snow. but then again my lead foot may not be helping my max much. maybe i should buy new tires or something?
. Hahaha see ya
03-04-2004, 08:55 PM
#109
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 334
Originally Posted by liqidvenom
i think that this thread is the funniest that i've ever read. I by no means qualify to be a pro in the racing world but all that matters is what happens on the track. having a 12sec car on the street isnt gonna do anything for you. You still have to go the speed limit. Don't get me wrong i would love to have a insanley powerfull car all the time but the only thing that matters is who gets down the track first. I know people who go to the track all the time and they try their best to go faster all on a budget. Hell if i had the money to be blowing away i would be driving somethings else. As for me i have one or two more mods to go and then i will start to look for a spray set-up and i plan to copy jime if he lets me. **** if i can just beat ceasears time then ill be happy.
Will
Will
03-05-2004, 01:40 AM
#111
Jime, I have this wideband o2 sensor kit:
http://www.plxdevices.com/onlinestore_domestic.htm
I have the M-300 kit. It works great. I datalog the results with this setup:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/Product.../zemulator.asp
So I am set for any NA, nitrous, or turbo tuning I may do in the future. But my wideband o2 sensor works great. I simply welded in a new o2 sensor bung. I got the bung from Nissan. It's made for a z32. I know the stock z32 o2 sensor bung works great with this size o2 sensor. Since the stock VE o2 sensor is much smaller, I had to weld a new bung in.
http://www.plxdevices.com/onlinestore_domestic.htm
I have the M-300 kit. It works great. I datalog the results with this setup:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/Product.../zemulator.asp
So I am set for any NA, nitrous, or turbo tuning I may do in the future. But my wideband o2 sensor works great. I simply welded in a new o2 sensor bung. I got the bung from Nissan. It's made for a z32. I know the stock z32 o2 sensor bung works great with this size o2 sensor. Since the stock VE o2 sensor is much smaller, I had to weld a new bung in.