After putting in both axles with the help of advise from this forum, I am getting some vibration at about 65mph. It feels like a wheel out of balance. Could it be I got a bum axle (rebuilt) or does the front end now need to be aligned?


P.S. It does take some patience to get the passenger side axle out and in.

 

Be sure that the c.v axles are well entered in the transmission.
Be sure that your wheels are well balanced.
Verify your alignement if necessary.

I have done the same job myself and no problem happend. Take a look
if everything is well mount together.

 

I can say that the driver side clicked in well. I don't think there is a half way with the way they went in. It's difficult to say with the passenger side. I lined up the ears on the bracket and taped the flange on the axle round and round until I could engage the bolts and then pulled the flange in with the 3 bolts. I have to think that the axle is all the way engaged with the flange all the way in. But maybe someone knows better.
I'm getting new tires this week from the Tire Rack so i'll see what a balance job does. Everything is smooth with until about 65.

 

It could be a bent axle shaft. If the axle was a remanufatured one its possible. The shaft is the long peice of the axle on the paseenger side. If you didnt have that vibration with the old axle that could be your problem.

 

In order to get the axle in, you separated the strut from the steering knuckle, no? If so, you will most likely need an alignment.

I'd wait for the tires, though

 

I was told by one source off of this forum that I would probably need an alignment for the same reasons you mentioned. But the same source said if you used rebuilt axles there is always the possibility that you could get a bent one.
I agree with your thinking...new tires on first and see what happens. I think the alignment is inevitable though.

 

I just finished replacing both of mine also, no vibs in any speed. It would seem that a bent axle would give you vibs in any speed. I had to remove the ball joints but not the steering rod so alignment was not distorted at all. If you removed the steering rod then very possible your alignment is a bit off.

 

I did not remove the steering rod so who knows what happened. Tires were just delivered today so I'll have them on the car tomorrow. I'll take a look at everything again.

I'm putting on Goodrich Traction T/A's. They should make quite a difference in the handling of the car all together.

 

Ok...I assume by 'steering rod' you mean the tie-rod end? How can you get the axle out without removing this?

 

Once you remove the ball joints the whole hub assembly will swing out and side to side. By bending the joint of the haft shaft, it will slide right out. During installation, it will fit right back in by doing the same process.

 

I disconnected the spindle assy. from the strut (2 bolts,17mm & 19mm socket and wrench)and with the steering wheel turned slightly, used a large brass center punch to drive the splined end of the axle shaft out of the spindle assy. It came out easy on both sides. There is definetly no need to disconnect the tie rod end from all I have read and seen. I used a Haynes manual and info I got from this forum. My terminology may not be totally correct but I did not remove a tie rod end.
My Max is a 5spd without ABS and without a locking differential if it makes a difference.

 

yeah, i justed undid the lower strut retaining bolts and was able to turn the spindle assembly down and back enough to get the axle out.

 

Hmm...I never even tried...I always just disconnected the tie-rod end.

 

well, if you want to save some time, removal of the lower strut bolts are not necessary. I used a bottle type hydrolic jack between the A-arm and the frame to give enough clearance to slide the ball joint in and out of the spindle assembly. Had the driver's side out and replaced less than 30 minutes. When installing the driver side, make sure that the circ clip on the end of the shaft clicks in, you can feel it when you push the shaft in. If you don't feel it don't worry, once both ends are inserted straight, take a punch and hammer it into the center of the hub side of the shaft and this trick will set the circ clip.

 

The ball joint just slid out? You didn't need to use a separator?

 

Didn't use a seperator, I took the ball joint nut to the top so the thread doesn't show, put a wedge between that and the shaft and hammered the wedge. Once it comes loose, put the jack between the A-arm and the frame and it's out.

 

Good job...everything I read said it was a pita and that you're pretty much guarenteed to tear the boot. I never bothered with it, but next time I might. It'll save me some $$...no alignment required.

 

well I just installed a set of TEIN S Techs and replaced my left side axle while I had the car apart.... to bad the "new" rebuilt axle sounds like it is going to come out of the car...POS....louder than the old bootless joint I took out..... oh well hopefully I'll have time to swap it out weds...later

 

Got the new tires on and the vibration is gone.
I am still going to go for the alignment but the good news is the axles are O.K.
I may have knocked a wheel weight loose while taking the wheels off.
My Max is running as good as new with the new axles and the Goodrich Traction T/A's.