ereet

Anyone done anything really interesting in the quest for stopping trunk rattle? I've treated a lot of it with sound deadening stuff, and still get it quite a bit on the higher frequency bass. I'm going to be building a custom setup soon and am thinking of a bandpass style box ported directly through the 6.5" slots in the rear deck (rear fill hah!) or through the ski-hatch in the middle of the rear seats.

Anyone have any ideas on how to do this? I don't really like bandpass boxes and would be much happier with a sealed one but firing subs off in the trunk sucks. And, well. Cutting holes in the rear deck/back of the seats sucks more.

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

I know with my SPL, I just got a Dynamat trunk kit. While it helped and the bass sounds a lot better, I still get some rattling, but it is a lot better than it was. I am also looking for suggestions to anything else. . . At least I got the spoiler to stop rattling.

96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

Yeah dynamat is amazing. If you want to improve your sound and get rid of rattle, get dynamat.

ereet

I got tons of sound deadener in there already =) It don't help much with 1k watts and a 50-80hz frequency. Anyone cut holes in the back of their seats & make some sort of fold-down rear seat gagetry?

Sound deadener at it's best:

http://members.home.com/ereet/trunk.jpg
That's the trunk lid. I sprayed the entire inside of it with RF noisekiller foam stuff.

http://members.home.com/ereet/trunk2.jpg
Trunk Floor.

[Edited by ereet on 09-21-2000 at 08:53 PM]

EZEMaxima

Try putting some dynamat and fill in the small openings with expanding foam, try to get the ones that expands alot. Make sure you tape up all the holes after and leave it overnite to dry. It's really hard to take off the carpet or paint. And make sure you don't put to much inside the crevices cause it will expand and possibly warp your trunk. Just spray a bit a watch it expand and move to the next spot. And if you don't want to do that , you can use a good rubberized undercoating after putting dynamat. it gets to tight spots that you can't reach and put in dynamat. And then take your car for some audio test drive. Have fun

Bernie Lomax

We have a full size spare and 5th rim in the trunk of a 97-99 SE??

Guest

there's a new material that's out there called accumat. It's suppose to be better then dynamat because it's made out of a cement type compound. I would recommend it to anyone over dynamat because dynamat will crack in the long run. I've been messing around my stereo system for a while now and there's practically no rattle.

Synki

With all the dampening you use, you will never eliminate all of the rattles. Your best bet is to dynamat or spray dampen your trunk. Then fill in the holes with expanding foam (tends to go dry and chunk off) or stuff it with pillow stuffing (polyfill) or even use the spungy foam (used to dampen noise too... normally used for home, looks like egg holders) I sure hope your not worried about weight, dampening your trunk adds up. It also depends on where you place it. This is just what i have noticed from doing installs for 3 years now. Good luck.

ereet

Doh I guess I'm stuck with it then because I've already deadened it. The problem isn't really rattles now, it's the actual trunk flexing from the pressure levels. Hell, when it's cranked on something loud the trunk literally "screams" -- ie, a high pitched wailing noise because of it either flexing, or air escaping where the weatherproofing is.

Any other ideas other than just more deadener?

Thanks for the help! =)

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like air escaping from te weatherproofing. Only way to fix that would be some sort of sealer for it. . . Supposedly out trunks aren't really that well sealed in that area.

mingo

iTrader: (4)

i fired my subs into the cabin, sealed gaps between the face of the box and the trunk completely sealed teh cabin completely off from the trunk, with a cheap price of a roll of duct tape. heheeh. works like a charm. the bass has a diff effect too.

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

Where can I find Dynamat's products in Toronto, Canada. Approximetly how much do they sell them for?

1999 Maxima ES Limited: clear corners,custom red/clear tails,5" muffler tip,wood dash,red calipers,red rocker cover,all xenon blue lights,hood deflector. Future mods: FSTB,upgraded sound system,touring wing,GTR emblems,european cornering lights,razo brake pedals.
The TORMAX wensite: http://www.geocities.com/natanis_ca/index.html

EZEMaxima

The ultimate will be to strip your trunk of all the previous sound deadening materials even the factory ones. Get a 400-600 grit sandpaper and prep any part of your trunk you want covered with those spray on bedliners like rhino lining. Make sure you tape up any holes you will need later cause it can cover holes easily. My friend did that to his Mitsubishi Eclipse and man did it make a big difference but it's very costly. You also have the option of having the color match your car.

ericdwong

2 15" Kicker XPL C woofers in my trunk, running about 500 watts continuous to each one, in a 2.0 cubic foot (per side) box. I've hit over 140 dB in my 90 camry (havent dB drag raced the maxima yet, but I'm sure its louder, due to more rigid body and heavier alternator) I really do not feel the trunk rattle is bad at all. I used to have this setup in a 90 camry and it's trunk/bumper/license tag rattled 20x worse. My spoiler rattles a little, cause it seems like the outter pegs are just glued onto the trunklid. Check the top screws of the license tag to make sure they are not banging into the metal bumper. There is a major source of rattle right there. I put sticky felt behind those screws to shut up the rattling. Also, make sure the license tag is secured by four bolts, not just two. Other then that, if you open the rear pass through it also vents the trunk enclosure so that it does not rattle as badly.

96BLUMAX

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the tips.

deathwish

I think this is the time to plug my sound damping page, don't spend lots of money on dynamat before reading it!

http://www.math.ohio-state.edu/~ccun...xima/damp.html

EZEMaxima

Thanks for the info. I was just about to order some dynamat.

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

I am new at this sound system thing and I am looking for some opinions. I am looking for a new amp and subwoofers for my '99 max. What wattage should the amp be because I just want to add one 10" subwoofer to increase the bass in my premium 120watt sound system.

ereet

I don't like mixing factory systems with aftermarket stuff, but hey. I like at least 300w per sub, so for a single 10, a 300w amp should be fine. Maybe a MTX 250D with a single infinity perfect 10" .. That'd sound pretty good, if you've got a little more money, check out the audiomobile MASS subs (www.audiomobileinc.com) .. They're some of the best sounding ones around now, but they're real pricey.

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

I would first consider what sub you want to use. . . Most of the people here from what I gather use JL Audio subs. I personally use a Kicker subwoofer, and like it a lot. I recommend listening to people's cars that have the type of subs you are looking at and seeing how they sound. Car audio shops are also a good place to demo subs, but a lot of places won't allow you to test the better subs, but a lot of the time, someone there will have a car that you can listen to. For a 10" speaker, I would recommend around 200W of power in general for these subs. This is a good amount of power, and will power them well. If you don't get as good of a sub, they might not be able to handle that much power and you may cook them. Once you choose the one you want, get the power handling numbers and then decide what tpye of amp. work work the best for you.