Y-pipe installed, but can't drive at all!
03-10-2004, 02:12 PM
#1
Y-pipe installed, but can't drive at all!
THIS SUCKS!!!
Okay, so I installed my y-pipe Sunday. I could not actually do the entire thing by myself, because of my broken right arm, but I have a brother that was willing to help me out. Too many of the conditions were right this day not to take advantage of the afternoon.
I have had this Warpspeed box sitting in my foyer for like 2 weeks now and it was killing me. I finally took it out to show my brother and tell him about it(he is a VW guy...............but not struggling with his ride......Turbo Golf+chip that adds 50hp=very fast). He said he would not mind helping me put it on. I wanted to do the whole thing by myself (just a mod thing, I guess....I like to be the one that does them), but it would be another 4 or so weeks until I could do that.
It had been raining for like a month straight here in Mississippi, so when this Sunday was beautiful and clear, I took advantage of it.
We too the thing out there with some rust/penetrating spray thinking that the bolts would be hard to get off like other members have said about theirs. I don't think these have ever seen snow, so I guess they weren't too bad. We got under there, sprayed some on the bolts, and then knocked on them with a hammer a little. We let it sit to soak in, and then went back out there to do the deed. **NOTE: it is really hard to climb under a car or do anythng on it with one hand, and not your good hand at that. But it was fun nonetheless**
Well, once under there, we began to follow some of the how-to's I had printed off earlier last month in anticipation of the new piece. They were very straight forward, and were easily followed.
Once we got all of the O2 sensors out(crescent wrench) and all the bolts undone, we just put the thing down, after it mauling us. That stock pipe is quite heavy when you are laying underneath it. The new pipe, to our relief, was only about 14lbs rather than the 30lb stock one. We put it up there and began to attach the pipe to the manifold first, because the rear would flex a little to go on there. It was great to see how much room we had to put the new one back on there, because it as so much less bulky than the old one.
The connection was easy. In fact, we probably had a harder time getting the hangers back connected around the pipe than anything else...ha ha. Those things are tough to get.
Well, we came out of there and cranked it up. At first, I noticed the growl that it had beyond what it had stock. It sounded really good. I have done nothing to the air box(hacked it) yet, and my exhaust is a 5th gen muffler and custom b-pipe. It was not loud, but sounded just right.
I am not supposed to drive my car for another two or so weeks, because it is a good ole 5spd. However, I had to drive it after I got that y-pipe on there. It hurt my arm like mad because I was really shifting vigorously on those winding country roads, but it was worth it. I am pleased. The bad part now is knowing that I have it on there but I cannot drive it for a while if I want my arm to heal. My dad is driving it, and he told me it is fun.........ahhhhhhh!
**I was having a hesitation at about 3400 rpms that I thought was from the coils. Well, I checked the ECU lst night and just got 0505 code, which means nothing is wrong. The hesitation seemed to be worse after I put the y-pipe on, probably just because of the more power. What should I do?
Also, do I need to reset the ECU after I put that pipe on? I didn't. Will it learn what the new mods are and correct itself?
Thanks for reading....I will probably publish this book next month...ha ha
Okay, so I installed my y-pipe Sunday. I could not actually do the entire thing by myself, because of my broken right arm, but I have a brother that was willing to help me out. Too many of the conditions were right this day not to take advantage of the afternoon.
I have had this Warpspeed box sitting in my foyer for like 2 weeks now and it was killing me. I finally took it out to show my brother and tell him about it(he is a VW guy...............but not struggling with his ride......Turbo Golf+chip that adds 50hp=very fast). He said he would not mind helping me put it on. I wanted to do the whole thing by myself (just a mod thing, I guess....I like to be the one that does them), but it would be another 4 or so weeks until I could do that.
It had been raining for like a month straight here in Mississippi, so when this Sunday was beautiful and clear, I took advantage of it.
We too the thing out there with some rust/penetrating spray thinking that the bolts would be hard to get off like other members have said about theirs. I don't think these have ever seen snow, so I guess they weren't too bad. We got under there, sprayed some on the bolts, and then knocked on them with a hammer a little. We let it sit to soak in, and then went back out there to do the deed. **NOTE: it is really hard to climb under a car or do anythng on it with one hand, and not your good hand at that. But it was fun nonetheless**
Well, once under there, we began to follow some of the how-to's I had printed off earlier last month in anticipation of the new piece. They were very straight forward, and were easily followed.
Once we got all of the O2 sensors out(crescent wrench) and all the bolts undone, we just put the thing down, after it mauling us. That stock pipe is quite heavy when you are laying underneath it. The new pipe, to our relief, was only about 14lbs rather than the 30lb stock one. We put it up there and began to attach the pipe to the manifold first, because the rear would flex a little to go on there. It was great to see how much room we had to put the new one back on there, because it as so much less bulky than the old one.
The connection was easy. In fact, we probably had a harder time getting the hangers back connected around the pipe than anything else...ha ha. Those things are tough to get.
Well, we came out of there and cranked it up. At first, I noticed the growl that it had beyond what it had stock. It sounded really good. I have done nothing to the air box(hacked it) yet, and my exhaust is a 5th gen muffler and custom b-pipe. It was not loud, but sounded just right.
I am not supposed to drive my car for another two or so weeks, because it is a good ole 5spd. However, I had to drive it after I got that y-pipe on there. It hurt my arm like mad because I was really shifting vigorously on those winding country roads, but it was worth it. I am pleased. The bad part now is knowing that I have it on there but I cannot drive it for a while if I want my arm to heal. My dad is driving it, and he told me it is fun.........ahhhhhhh!
**I was having a hesitation at about 3400 rpms that I thought was from the coils. Well, I checked the ECU lst night and just got 0505 code, which means nothing is wrong. The hesitation seemed to be worse after I put the y-pipe on, probably just because of the more power. What should I do?
Also, do I need to reset the ECU after I put that pipe on? I didn't. Will it learn what the new mods are and correct itself?
Thanks for reading....I will probably publish this book next month...ha ha
03-10-2004, 03:34 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
what you think about the ECU reset, Optimus310?
I will let you know, be assured.
I will let you know, be assured.
03-10-2004, 03:56 PM
#10
Originally Posted by optimus310
You don't have to reset the ECU. The ECU will learn the new mod. If you jus want to reset it and leave it fresh to start learning with the new mod disconnect your battery over night, and that will reset it. The screw driver method does not work here, that only clears the codes
03-10-2004, 04:19 PM
#11
Sorry about the arm Brudaddy. I just installed my Warpspeed Y-pipe and didn't have to reset my ECU. Also, if you are getting a rattling noise by the shifter when you accelerate then make sure you drive the hell out of your car to break in the flex section. That way, the annoying rattling noise should stop. My gas milage sucks now since I am always trying to go full throttle whenever I get the chance. 
Hope you get the chance to really enjoy this MOD; I know I am. Best of luck to you and get well soon, your Maxima misses you.
Hope you get the chance to really enjoy this MOD; I know I am. Best of luck to you and get well soon, your Maxima misses you.
03-10-2004, 09:40 PM
#12
Originally Posted by mansurxk
i dont agree with that, spliced my O2 sensors, and when i connected them again, i got a CEL, i took off teh battery terminal for 5 minutes, that dind twork, also tried to turn the screw, then 2 seconds turned it back, still got a CEL, beacuse i thought that was suposed to reset it, i tried like 5 times, no effect, found this webpage http://www.brianv.net/mods/ecu/ turned out, supposed to hold it for 5 seconds, then turn it, started the car, no CEL anymore, its been 200 miles, and no codes either, i was getting 1 13 or something, now i get 0505.
Disconnecting the battery doesn't clear the codes. It resets the current state of your ECU
Turning the screw will reset the codes on your ECU. It doesn't reset the current state of his ECU.
IN his case he just added a new mod and the o2 sensors will feel more flow so it needs to adjust the air/fuel to perform better. Since the ECU has already been running with his current stock setup it was programmed it self with the stock exhaust flow. It doesn't mean it won't learn the new mod. It will learn it will just take a little longer.
Resetting the current state of his ECU will clear the data record for the exhaust flow, and will start learning right away with the new Y pipe.
03-11-2004, 07:35 AM
#13
Okay, I will unhook the battery. I do want the ECU to learn the new mod as quickly as possible. However, I will not be able to drive my car for at least another week, my dad is driving it. By then, it will have had at least two weeks of constant driving with the y-pipe on there. Is that enough for it to learn it, or do I just need to go over to my Dad's house this weekend, and reset it, so that by next week or so, it will definately know what it is doing? (Thanks for all the help, Optimus.)
Optimus, if you don't mind me asking, how much did your rims cost? Are you going to be getting some more new anytime soon(cause I want those!...ha ha)?
MaximaTodd, unfortunately, I don't think I have any way of getting a soundclip of my exhaust. I don't even have a digital camera, cam corder, or a computer at home, for that matter. ha ha. What I did, since I got a custom b-pipe, is left the stock resonator on there. Since I was not going for loud, I figured there was no need to spend another $50 for a resonator when that one is perfectly fine, and does not really slow down the exhaust air enough to matter. I might, later of course, take it off, and see how is sounds without a resonator. Right now, it is like this: If you have your car stock...then you put the 2.5" b-pipe on there and 5th gen muffler......a little bit more noise than 4th gen(barely at all from inside the car).....then when you get the y-pipe, low end growl ever so slightly. Hope that helps.
Thanks others and meanbean, I can tell you know how me and my max are....it really does miss me! ha ha
Keep the comments coming...
Optimus, if you don't mind me asking, how much did your rims cost? Are you going to be getting some more new anytime soon(cause I want those!...ha ha)?
MaximaTodd, unfortunately, I don't think I have any way of getting a soundclip of my exhaust. I don't even have a digital camera, cam corder, or a computer at home, for that matter. ha ha. What I did, since I got a custom b-pipe, is left the stock resonator on there. Since I was not going for loud, I figured there was no need to spend another $50 for a resonator when that one is perfectly fine, and does not really slow down the exhaust air enough to matter. I might, later of course, take it off, and see how is sounds without a resonator. Right now, it is like this: If you have your car stock...then you put the 2.5" b-pipe on there and 5th gen muffler......a little bit more noise than 4th gen(barely at all from inside the car).....then when you get the y-pipe, low end growl ever so slightly. Hope that helps.
Thanks others and meanbean, I can tell you know how me and my max are....it really does miss me! ha ha
Keep the comments coming...
03-11-2004, 09:20 AM
#15
Where you get them from? I will go and browse around to see if I like any they have.
Oh, well, it was worth me asking. Right? haha
I like the Rota Sub-zeros. You know what those look like? (I know this is off topic....www.jaydm.com). They are cheap and light too. Check them out.
Oh, well, it was worth me asking. Right? haha
I like the Rota Sub-zeros. You know what those look like? (I know this is off topic....www.jaydm.com). They are cheap and light too. Check them out.
03-11-2004, 05:47 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
Where you get them from? I will go and browse around to see if I like any they have.
Oh, well, it was worth me asking. Right? haha
I like the Rota Sub-zeros. You know what those look like? (I know this is off topic....www.jaydm.com). They are cheap and light too. Check them out.
Oh, well, it was worth me asking. Right? haha
I like the Rota Sub-zeros. You know what those look like? (I know this is off topic....www.jaydm.com). They are cheap and light too. Check them out.
03-12-2004, 08:19 AM
#18
Sorry to Hear about your Arm, I could image having this new mod on your car and not being able to have fun with it,
it like getting a lot of gifts for christmas, but you can play with them till new years.
Hope you heal, quick so that enjoy your max
Congrats on the new wheels for your nephew as well.
it like getting a lot of gifts for christmas, but you can play with them till new years.
Hope you heal, quick so that enjoy your max
Congrats on the new wheels for your nephew as well.
03-12-2004, 09:13 AM
#21
just look for a thread, dude. There are a million of them.
Here is one:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285381
Here is one:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285381
03-15-2004, 01:05 PM
#22
My dad, who has been driving my max now for about 400-500 miles (lucky joker) says that the hesitation I am having at WOT at about 3500rpms is worse now that the new y-pipe is on there. I was wondering if any of you had any ideas of why this might be happening, and any remedies? Check out this link:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=284565
Please post on either one or on both if you can help.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=284565
Please post on either one or on both if you can help.
03-24-2004, 12:01 PM
#23
bump.
I got my max back last week and have been enjoying it a lot since. The check up at the doctor was good, because the first question out of my mouth to him was if I could drive my car or not. He said it had healed enough that I would probably not hurt it just by driving my car now. He said to stop driving it if my arm began to hurt. Well, what he doesn't know, is that I will just put up with the pain before I stop driving this thing again.
My max has learned the y-pipe mod now. I didn't reset the ECU, but it has been driven enough that it knows. By the time I got it back from my dad, it was running at its full capability.
The cool but weird thing is that it didn't hesitate at all this past weekend. It has been having a little trouble with WOT at about 3500rpm recently, but it was not there Friday, Saturday, or Sunday. I don't feel it now, but I fear it may still come back. Oh well, I hope it doesn't.
I got my max back last week and have been enjoying it a lot since. The check up at the doctor was good, because the first question out of my mouth to him was if I could drive my car or not. He said it had healed enough that I would probably not hurt it just by driving my car now. He said to stop driving it if my arm began to hurt. Well, what he doesn't know, is that I will just put up with the pain before I stop driving this thing again.
My max has learned the y-pipe mod now. I didn't reset the ECU, but it has been driven enough that it knows. By the time I got it back from my dad, it was running at its full capability.
The cool but weird thing is that it didn't hesitate at all this past weekend. It has been having a little trouble with WOT at about 3500rpm recently, but it was not there Friday, Saturday, or Sunday. I don't feel it now, but I fear it may still come back. Oh well, I hope it doesn't.
03-24-2004, 12:09 PM
#24
LOL when i read the title i thought u messed up your car while trying to install the y-pipe and it couldnt drive. Glad u got install done. Patience is a virtue. You gonna need that arm when shifting past those ricers 
03-24-2004, 12:11 PM
#25
Originally Posted by optimus310
I order them from www.tirerack.com great site and great customer service.
you can reset the ECU but i think if the problem is not fixed the light will continue to keep comming on cause ti keeps reconizing that prob. But you said you had a 0505. that is messed up tr both methods and see fi any work. if not. to dealer you go!
03-24-2004, 12:42 PM
#26
I will not go to the dealer! I just refuse to do so. I mean, I know some about cars, but my older brother knows even more. If it is just something that I cannot figure out, I will plead with him for him to figure it out.
I will beat this!
Meccannoble, that is true, man. I have to be able to shift past those ricers. I can do that now, and it is awesome. I was at a light beside an old 5.0 stang(probably like 87 or so) in pretty good shape. Well, he kept revving it up, and I kept acting like I was not really going to do anything. Well, we got on it at the green, and I hung with him till about 50mph and then had to slow down, because cops are bad there(and it is 35.). It was fun though.
I will beat this!
Meccannoble, that is true, man. I have to be able to shift past those ricers. I can do that now, and it is awesome. I was at a light beside an old 5.0 stang(probably like 87 or so) in pretty good shape. Well, he kept revving it up, and I kept acting like I was not really going to do anything. Well, we got on it at the green, and I hung with him till about 50mph and then had to slow down, because cops are bad there(and it is 35.). It was fun though.
03-24-2004, 01:23 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Brudaddy
My dad, who has been driving my max now for about 400-500 miles (lucky joker) says that the hesitation I am having at WOT at about 3500rpms is worse now that the new y-pipe is on there. I was wondering if any of you had any ideas of why this might be happening, and any remedies? Check out this link:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=284565
Please post on either one or on both if you can help.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=284565
Please post on either one or on both if you can help.
When will you people finally understand that in 99% of cases, the ECU will NOT throw a code for a deteriorating coil (ok, so it would be a "cylinder misfire" code to be more exact) until that particular coil causes SEVERE cylinder misfiring.
Listen Brudaddy, I drove on a defective coil for the longest time with no ECU codes thrown whatsoever. At that time my Max was bone stock. A few months after, I put on a cone intake system and, like in your case with putting on the y-pipe, the hesitations I was experiencing at that time got far worse. What happens is that whenever you up the horsepower on you Maxima, even a tiny bit as through an intake system, the hesitations will get worse simply because the electrical wattage going through the coil requires even more persistency. - A mechanic gave me this analogy once, so think of it this way: say you're having trouble breathing because your lungs hurt. When are you going to suffer more, when walking or running? ...and we all know the answer to that
03-24-2004, 01:50 PM
#29
good analogy, BOSS.
I guess my other question would be: "is there a way to check(with an ohmmeter, like I have seen some others doing) with some accuracy the effectiveness of the coils, in order to not have to replace all of them? I just don't want to have to drop $420 on coils, if changing one out would do the trick.
Thanks for all the comments...
Keep them up....
..........and Meccanoble, what the heck is that thing on the front of your car on the first few pages of your website?
I guess my other question would be: "is there a way to check(with an ohmmeter, like I have seen some others doing) with some accuracy the effectiveness of the coils, in order to not have to replace all of them? I just don't want to have to drop $420 on coils, if changing one out would do the trick.
Thanks for all the comments...
Keep them up....
..........and Meccanoble, what the heck is that thing on the front of your car on the first few pages of your website?
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