Dash LED's are out? HELP!!!
#1
Dash LED's are out? HELP!!!
Never notived it till today but my LED lights on my dash are out? I am talking about the ones around the Air conditioning controls as well as the hazard button. Does anyong have any clue if it could just be a fuse? I tried to look and see if any of the fuse names stood out but none screamed DASH to me? Well any help will be greatly appreciated.
#2
They aren't LEDs, just some tiny bulbs. They probably burned out. You can go tot the dealer and buy the bulbs for an insane amount of money. That or you can get some 3mm LEDs on ebay along with some resistors and get crackin'. Take it apart and stick them in there.
#3
I have the sam problem on my 95 se. The only things that illuminate on the dash are:
1.clock
2.manual climate controls (fan ****, thermal bar blue-red).
I need to fix up:
1. hazard button
2. rear defrost
3. climate control (position buttons that indicate where the air will blow.)
can anyone please gimmie teh exact bulbs and how many i need. Im going to the dealer, or perhaps will find another way out of it.
also using the leds, i wil have to solder?
1.clock
2.manual climate controls (fan ****, thermal bar blue-red).
I need to fix up:
1. hazard button
2. rear defrost
3. climate control (position buttons that indicate where the air will blow.)
can anyone please gimmie teh exact bulbs and how many i need. Im going to the dealer, or perhaps will find another way out of it.
also using the leds, i wil have to solder?
#4
Sounds like just one of the three bulbs burned out on your guys climate control.
One bulb is for the fan selector ****, one bulb is dispersed to backlight around the buttons, and one light lights the bottom (A/C + slider). So, the second bulb.
If you are going to use LED's+resistors then you can solder, but you can also use the plastic holder the bulbs were in (prob a pain in the butt to get the leads wrapped around it, but no soldering ) I suppose you could get away with not even soldering the resistors on by wrapping them somehow, but I'd recommend soldering at least that part.
Now sure about what exact bulb to get...but I doubt the dealer could charge *that* much for a new bulb...but who knows...it is the dealer...
One bulb is for the fan selector ****, one bulb is dispersed to backlight around the buttons, and one light lights the bottom (A/C + slider). So, the second bulb.
If you are going to use LED's+resistors then you can solder, but you can also use the plastic holder the bulbs were in (prob a pain in the butt to get the leads wrapped around it, but no soldering ) I suppose you could get away with not even soldering the resistors on by wrapping them somehow, but I'd recommend soldering at least that part.
Now sure about what exact bulb to get...but I doubt the dealer could charge *that* much for a new bulb...but who knows...it is the dealer...
#8
Originally Posted by MadChef
Sounds like just one of the three bulbs burned out on your guys climate control.
One bulb is for the fan selector ****, one bulb is dispersed to backlight around the buttons, and one light lights the bottom (A/C + slider). So, the second bulb.
If you are going to use LED's+resistors then you can solder, but you can also use the plastic holder the bulbs were in (prob a pain in the butt to get the leads wrapped around it, but no soldering ) I suppose you could get away with not even soldering the resistors on by wrapping them somehow, but I'd recommend soldering at least that part.
Now sure about what exact bulb to get...but I doubt the dealer could charge *that* much for a new bulb...but who knows...it is the dealer...
One bulb is for the fan selector ****, one bulb is dispersed to backlight around the buttons, and one light lights the bottom (A/C + slider). So, the second bulb.
If you are going to use LED's+resistors then you can solder, but you can also use the plastic holder the bulbs were in (prob a pain in the butt to get the leads wrapped around it, but no soldering ) I suppose you could get away with not even soldering the resistors on by wrapping them somehow, but I'd recommend soldering at least that part.
Now sure about what exact bulb to get...but I doubt the dealer could charge *that* much for a new bulb...but who knows...it is the dealer...
Sorry but can someone explain to me the purpose of resistors?
#14
The resister is needed for current limiting and voltage drop. Using the proper resister value will prevent the LED from burning out early (usually they are said to have 11.4 years of continuous operation, but over driving it could shorten that dramatically). It is important to get the polarity of the LED right too.
Does anyone know the bulb number(s) (like LBxxxx or DExxxx or some such code) for climate control? And are these bulbs white or colored?
White LEDs are more expensive than color ones. Green might be a good choice on the dash since the transluscent parts are kinda green.
I see that lightlens.com has some LED automotive bulbs and I wonder if there are equivalents for the incandescent ones.
Calculating the required resister: R=(15 - V)/I where I is the current rating of the LED and V is the operating voltage of the LED. The 15 is the usual 12v plus a safety factor to account for voltage spikes. Units: R is Ohms, I is amps.
Does anyone know the bulb number(s) (like LBxxxx or DExxxx or some such code) for climate control? And are these bulbs white or colored?
White LEDs are more expensive than color ones. Green might be a good choice on the dash since the transluscent parts are kinda green.
I see that lightlens.com has some LED automotive bulbs and I wonder if there are equivalents for the incandescent ones.
Calculating the required resister: R=(15 - V)/I where I is the current rating of the LED and V is the operating voltage of the LED. The 15 is the usual 12v plus a safety factor to account for voltage spikes. Units: R is Ohms, I is amps.
#15
Originally Posted by Paul Baclace
It is important to get the polarity of the LED right too.
Originally Posted by Paul Baclace
Does anyone know the bulb number(s) (like LBxxxx or DExxxx or some such code) for climate control? And are these bulbs white or colored?
#17
Originally Posted by Big D
When you buy LEDs, the provided resistors are the correct ones to use in a 12v system so doing all the calculations is a waste.
((To match your own resistor: The hard part is not the calculation, it's finding out the recommended voltage and current levels for an LED; typical values are 3v and .02amps which implies a 600 ohm resistor. If the LED operates at a higher than recommended current, its microscopic junction overheats and it dims over time. For example, a cheap white LED at 3X the recommended current will last only as long as a normal light bulb.))
#18
Daaaamn, I was looking for this answer for 4 days now.
How many bulbs do I need if none of my lights work?
Are there bulbs in the dash instrumental too? How do I get to those bulbs? Is there still a fuse for those bulbs?
How many bulbs do I need if none of my lights work?
Are there bulbs in the dash instrumental too? How do I get to those bulbs? Is there still a fuse for those bulbs?
#22
Basically, all you need to know is resistors are needed when replacing light bulbs. If an LED is already there, then a resistor is already there =)
(window switches have resistors already)
(window switches have resistors already)
#23
If you dont want to put LEDs in there, just pull the front console off, twist out the light bulb sockets, yank the bulbs out, put 'em in your pocket and drive down to the local electronics store (Radio Shack didn't have 'em for me, but they told me where to go to get them in town).
Took me all of 2-3 hours to do this, including all the driving around town.
LEDs would certainly look cool, but I'm too lazy to do any modifications. The bulbs cost me all of about $.35 per bad for two of them.
Mike
Took me all of 2-3 hours to do this, including all the driving around town.
LEDs would certainly look cool, but I'm too lazy to do any modifications. The bulbs cost me all of about $.35 per bad for two of them.
Mike
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