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cylinder 3 misfire

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Old 03-20-2004 | 11:37 AM
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cylinder 3 misfire

A friend of mine has this issue. The coil and injector are fine as they work when swapped out. His mechanic sees 12V on 1 wire, 0.3V on the other and ground on the third wire to the coil pack. Mechanic also see's a couple of faint sparks when engine is cranked, but then nothing. We're all stumped...any ideas???

Thanks!
Old 03-20-2004 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by slammed95
Most likely the coil. Sometimes they don't go totally bad, they just start misfiring occasionally. It might be misfiring, then be ok for a whole day, then start misfiring again. Other times, you turn on the car and it just starts misfiring constantly, and you'll smell unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust.
That's what I thought at first...but it isn't firing with another coil either. Looks like wiring or ECU to me...
Old 03-20-2004 | 02:50 PM
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Disconnect the battery
Swap coil pack #3 with coil pack #1/
Reconnect the battery
Reset ECU
Drive
Wait for CEL
Check CEL
See if Misfire switched to cylinder #1
If so, coil pack is bad.

Repeat same things with injectors.
Old 03-21-2004 | 12:10 PM
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i'm having a similar problem. however, i'm getting code 0201 which relates to the primary ignition circuit rather than a specific coil pack. i wouldn't be surprised if it was a coil pack gone bad or about to go bad. however, i don't know which pack maybe causing the problem. any suggestions on the best way to troubleshoot this error code?
Old 03-21-2004 | 01:12 PM
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0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit

A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.

I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days.
Old 03-21-2004 | 01:14 PM
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0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.
Old 03-09-2012 | 12:37 PM
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I am going down this road now, my wife took our 1999 maxima to have the codes read at AutoZone, and it came back with misfire #3, EGR valve and Knock sensor. I changed the plugs when we noticed the first sign of hesitation and no change, I replaced the coil pack for #5 mistakenly after getting the wrong cylinder location info on another site. But I did take the coil that I took out of #5 and put it in #3, no change. The car will not stay running when it is cold unless you give it some throttle and then it will run on ok. The plugs didn't seem like there were any one blacker than the other, just the electrode worn down from lack of maint. (we just got this car) My question is, does this point to a bad injector? Does this cause the low fuel pressure at cold start? Does the EGR valve have anything to do with this? Please help
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