Why do people get big brake kits.
03-25-2004, 10:10 AM
#42
Originally Posted by Chunger
And no you won't lose 15hp with big brakes...
You may lose 5hp, maybe a bit more, with heavier wheels (17-18") realistically.
I can say the big brakes DID stop my car better when I had my 18" Lowenharts on my car compared to Stillen OE/pad setup (which is better than stock)
You may lose 5hp, maybe a bit more, with heavier wheels (17-18") realistically.
I can say the big brakes DID stop my car better when I had my 18" Lowenharts on my car compared to Stillen OE/pad setup (which is better than stock)
I love my wilwood kit
03-25-2004, 10:28 AM
#43
Originally Posted by Chunger
Stock calipers (4th Gen) are:
And no you won't lose 15hp with big brakes...
You may lose 5hp, maybe a bit more, with heavier wheels (17-18") realistically.
I can say the big brakes DID stop my car better when I had my 18" Lowenharts on my car compared to Stillen OE/pad setup (which is better than stock)
And no you won't lose 15hp with big brakes...
You may lose 5hp, maybe a bit more, with heavier wheels (17-18") realistically.
I can say the big brakes DID stop my car better when I had my 18" Lowenharts on my car compared to Stillen OE/pad setup (which is better than stock)
03-25-2004, 10:34 AM
#44
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 81
Listen everyone, I don't want this thread to start giving people bad ideas. BBKs can make your brakes lock up, so dont everybody start going out and putting them on you cars. If you dont know how to break properly you can get yourself into a very serious accident when your wheels lock up. I couldn't give a crap for people who kill themselves, but it ****es me off when they kill the innocence around them. Performance driving is not for public roads. Dont get me wrong, I like to drive as fast as the next @$$ hole, but dont put anything on your car that you dont know how to use. Big brakes are a big modification. You know what I'm talking about. Thanks for hearing me.
03-25-2004, 10:35 AM
#45
Weight is a big part. Because if the new rotor is significantly lighter, it will be easier to rotate despite the bigger diameter. Why do people use lightweight rims(that are larger-17" vs 15")?
Put is this way. Let's say the 2-pc rotor weighed 0 lbs. In theory, it wouldn't take any power to rotate it correct? So in this case weight would matter. Yes the tip speed of the larger dia. rotor will increase but that's something different IMHO.
Of course the 2pc rotor DOES have some weight. But does is it light enough to compensate for the larger diameter? That is the question.
Put is this way. Let's say the 2-pc rotor weighed 0 lbs. In theory, it wouldn't take any power to rotate it correct? So in this case weight would matter. Yes the tip speed of the larger dia. rotor will increase but that's something different IMHO.
Of course the 2pc rotor DOES have some weight. But does is it light enough to compensate for the larger diameter? That is the question.
Originally Posted by Big D
Weight wasn't the biggest part of it. A 12.2" rotor has more mass spinning further away from it's center axis. With a 11" rotor you have a maximum radius or 5.5", the furthest away from the axle right? With the 12.2" you have a radius of 6.1", more mass further from the center point. That is why you mostly lose HP not because of the weight. I don't know if I explained it good or not. Think of it this way, when you have a 3' rope on a stick and you start spinning it over your head like a lasso it takes less time for it to make a circle than it would for a stick with a 6' rope.
03-25-2004, 11:01 AM
#46
I think my point was missed...
I do concede that it WILL take more "power" to spin a bigger rotor (due to increased radius); but I am comparing that to RIM/TIRE combo... If you compare it, it's nearly insignificant.
Overall, I'd trade 5hp (i doubt it would be that much) with even a 5 foot reduction in stopping distance (it is probaby MORE) and fade/warp resistance.
If you still don't like those attributes then by all means stay away from BBK. I (and probably others) will not try to convert you over.
I do concede that it WILL take more "power" to spin a bigger rotor (due to increased radius); but I am comparing that to RIM/TIRE combo... If you compare it, it's nearly insignificant.
Overall, I'd trade 5hp (i doubt it would be that much) with even a 5 foot reduction in stopping distance (it is probaby MORE) and fade/warp resistance.
If you still don't like those attributes then by all means stay away from BBK. I (and probably others) will not try to convert you over.
03-25-2004, 11:18 AM
#47
Originally Posted by slammed95
... I just wish we could get some magnesium wheels. Those feel even better....
03-25-2004, 11:19 AM
#48
Originally Posted by Big D
I'm just writing what I witnessed happen with an RSX-S. They put on a 12.6 or 13" which weighed about 1lb less on each corner than the stock brakes, and he lost 12hp. During that brake install they also installed an exhaust system and still lost 12hp.
http://www.speedtv.com/programs/198/
03-25-2004, 12:19 PM
#49
That's where I got that from.
SLAMMED95, I would kill for big brakes so keep your smart *** comments to yourself. If you had a big brake kit that weighed exactly the same as your stock components but the rotors were 2" bigger, do you NOT agree that this would make the car lose power.
SLAMMED95, I would kill for big brakes so keep your smart *** comments to yourself. If you had a big brake kit that weighed exactly the same as your stock components but the rotors were 2" bigger, do you NOT agree that this would make the car lose power.
03-25-2004, 12:41 PM
#50
I have Brembos in the front (X-Drilled - because I couldn't find blanks) and Performance Friction pads all the way around.
The braking is better than stock, but the biggest difference I noticed was braking under stress (i.e. when the brakes are hot). I do not get that "butt clenching the seat, just drove out of the car wash and the brakes are wet" feeling now when my brakes are good and hot. In fact, as they get hotter they seem to bite harder... although I have never gotten them glowing red or anything.
Side comment on Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors: I have heard a lot of people say they crack and whatnot but I have NEVER actually met anyone that has had that happen on a street driven car. Not saying it isn't possible, but I think it is mostly hype... about as much hype as actually getting anything out of cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors on the street to begin with.
Anyway, I like ‘em.
The braking is better than stock, but the biggest difference I noticed was braking under stress (i.e. when the brakes are hot). I do not get that "butt clenching the seat, just drove out of the car wash and the brakes are wet" feeling now when my brakes are good and hot. In fact, as they get hotter they seem to bite harder... although I have never gotten them glowing red or anything.
Side comment on Cross-Drilled and Slotted rotors: I have heard a lot of people say they crack and whatnot but I have NEVER actually met anyone that has had that happen on a street driven car. Not saying it isn't possible, but I think it is mostly hype... about as much hype as actually getting anything out of cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors on the street to begin with.
Anyway, I like ‘em.
03-25-2004, 02:16 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Big D
... If you had a big brake kit that weighed exactly the same as your stock components but the rotors were 2" bigger....
03-25-2004, 02:58 PM
#52
I may be wrong, but my feeling is that heavy big brakes will not significantly affect peak HP (or even overall HP) but it WILL affect acceleration. HP is not equal to overall performance. IIRC, rotational mass/inertia only applies when you're accelerating/decelerating, so it probably wouldn't affect peak HP on a dyno.
Someone who knows physics should confirm, deny, or amend this.
Someone who knows physics should confirm, deny, or amend this.
03-25-2004, 04:34 PM
#53
Jets have CF brakes. You should steel a jet and lift 'em off there.
I have a question for you guys. How much do you drive your car? Lets say the average person goes through pads every 25K. What do you do when you need new pads? Does the kit come with an extra set or you have to by them. Does each company offer different compounds in that particular kit or are you stuck with the middle ground? How much are pads for a big brake setup. Just curious. Wanted to see how much beyond the $2K price tag bb's really are after maintenance.
I have a question for you guys. How much do you drive your car? Lets say the average person goes through pads every 25K. What do you do when you need new pads? Does the kit come with an extra set or you have to by them. Does each company offer different compounds in that particular kit or are you stuck with the middle ground? How much are pads for a big brake setup. Just curious. Wanted to see how much beyond the $2K price tag bb's really are after maintenance.
03-25-2004, 09:36 PM
#54
Originally Posted by Chunger
You could cough up the $$ for carbon fiber rotors/pad setup... that would be lighter... for your wallet, too!
03-25-2004, 10:55 PM
#55
Wilwood pads run from $60 on up... but unless you go race pads like Poly A,B or C (real RACE) it won't cost more than $75 a set (4 pads). There are about 8 or so choices. Other companies make them for Wilwood calipers as well.
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
03-25-2004, 11:59 PM
#56
Originally Posted by Chunger
Wilwood pads run from $60 on up... but unless you go race pads like Poly A,B or C (real RACE) it won't cost more than $75 a set (4 pads). There are about 8 or so choices. Other companies make them for Wilwood calipers as well.
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
Got my 12.2 UL rotors from there, $105 shipped
03-26-2004, 08:18 AM
#57
Originally Posted by mitch33x
I'm using the 13" Coleman rotors now... it's about that price for ONE. Hehe.
Still cheaper than BREMBO/AP BBK rotors, though!
03-26-2004, 08:25 AM
#58
UL?? 2-piece?
Originally Posted by Chunger
Wilwood pads run from $60 on up... but unless you go race pads like Poly A,B or C (real RACE) it won't cost more than $75 a set (4 pads). There are about 8 or so choices. Other companies make them for Wilwood calipers as well.
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
Wilwood UL rotors 12.2" and under are about $150 for 2 (cheap as stock!)
03-26-2004, 08:59 AM
#59
Actually Ultralite 32... they are made to be used with hats:
http://www.wilwood.com/products/rotors/rotors.asp
http://www.wilwood.com/products/rotors/rotors.asp
03-26-2004, 12:08 PM
#60
Originally Posted by mitch33x
03-26-2004, 12:24 PM
#61
So looking at that site...
2 Superlite IIA calipers @ $130/ea = $260
2 12.2" UL 32 rotors @ $47/ea = $96
1 set of Wilwood pads = $90
2 mounting hats @ $75/ea = $150
Total = $600
What am I missing? Brackets? Can't cost too much to get some brackets machined, can it? Say maybe $100. SS Lines? Another $100? For a total of $800? The Fastbrakes kit is listed at $1400.
2 Superlite IIA calipers @ $130/ea = $260
2 12.2" UL 32 rotors @ $47/ea = $96
1 set of Wilwood pads = $90
2 mounting hats @ $75/ea = $150
Total = $600
What am I missing? Brackets? Can't cost too much to get some brackets machined, can it? Say maybe $100. SS Lines? Another $100? For a total of $800? The Fastbrakes kit is listed at $1400.
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