Help with CEL (3 codes)
Help with CEL (3 codes)
I was driving home on sat night and my cel came on.
heres what i ran the next day:
10 03 EGRC Solenoid valve
03 04 Knock sensor (Have it, tried a few times to get it in but cant get the old one off.)
01 03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
What are the first and last ones?
How serious are they?
Can i drive?
How much $?
Can i do it myself with moderate engine knowledge?
I looked around the internet and found nothing. Please help!!!!
I plan on cleaning my TB today anyway, will this help? Thought id try it, its about due anyway.
heres what i ran the next day:
10 03 EGRC Solenoid valve
03 04 Knock sensor (Have it, tried a few times to get it in but cant get the old one off.)
01 03 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
What are the first and last ones?
How serious are they?
Can i drive?
How much $?
Can i do it myself with moderate engine knowledge?
I looked around the internet and found nothing. Please help!!!!
I plan on cleaning my TB today anyway, will this help? Thought id try it, its about due anyway.
0103
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
How to replace is in hte FAQ and How-To's
1003
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1003
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
How to replace is in hte FAQ and How-To's
1003
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=1003
i have the egrc code and its 1005???? well anyway from what another org'er told me is that it is a valve which needs to be replaced (mine cost 84 bux at stealership) in your engine bay locate the transmission fluid dipstick and there should be a green harness close to it, that is where the valve is. VERY SIMPLE TO REPLACE YOURSELF!!!!! one screw and 3 tubes attached to it dont pay anyone to do it. hardest part is removing the tubes after that you are home free. when you get the new valve make sure it is the correct one (1st one i got was hitachi and harness didnt fit) the guy told me mitsubishi is the proper one. just make sure you get the right valve.
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