Does one grind the rotors only when putting on new rotors? ...or grind even old rotors each time new brake pads are installed? I'm asking because I'm about to replace my brake pads (front and back) and I have original rotors that came with my Max.

BTW, I was always told that grinding rotors helps A LOT

 

BOSS....

1. How many miles are on those original rotors?
2. I would probably recommend getting some new ones for about $20 each.
3. I would not recommend grinding down your rotors. Nissan makes them really thin for our cars, and I did this, and then they warped within 1,000 miles. That sucks. It just makes them too thin to keep their shape.
4. If they are not that worn, I would possibly just keep the old rotors on there. The only reason people change out their rotors or grind them down when they put new pads on there is because they don't want to mess up their nice new pads with a weird wear pattern from the old rotors. I don't know if you can tell if they are worn weird though. You might be able to look at the old pads and tell some of the history.
5. You ought to be able to get some new Rotors for like $20 each at a local parts store. They are OEM grade and work fine. I have put 25k miles on mine, and they are still good. It costs almost that much to get them re-surfaced.....like $15/per rotor. It is much more worth it to just get new ones, should you decide it is necessary.

Hope this helps....

 

The rotors have 60k on them and look pretty good IMO. I wonder about these aftermarket performance rotors, are they worth it?

So anyway, you're saying that I don't need to grind rotors if I get new pads or even if I get new pads with new rotors, right?

Also, would one grind performance, aftermarket rotors?

Lastly, I remember a while back (say 2, 3 months ago) when one entered Maxima.org this pop-up appeared every time with different color, cross-drilled performance rotors, paired with performance pads. Did that lead to a website? If so, which one?

 

Brudaddy's got it right. With most rotors these days, you can't really cut them; they are too thin.

If you have an extra ~$50, replace them. I always replace my pads/rotors at the same time...usually regardless of the wear.

Then again, I have a lifetime warranty on my all this stuff, so it's free

 

Aftermarket rotors i.e. cross slotted or drilled rotors are worthless for a daily driver, besides being a cheese grater for your pads, they lower the surface area of the rotor and the heat generated by daily driving isn't enough to justify it. You could go for them if you want that heLLa TyTe look. I know a few kids who have them, and if anything they squeel more and mess up the pads. You're best bet for another 60k out of brakes are napa united rotors with a ceramic pad.

 

yes, BOSS, that is what I was saying. You don't need to grind your rotors probably. You especially don't want to grind new ones down...that would be silly.

I would not recommend performance rotors for daily driver either. I would, however, recommend performance pads. I just picked up some Raybestos Quietstop from www.rockauto.com and when I need to change, those will be going on there.

 

LMAO........cheese grater

 

Autozone Rotors works great so far.

 

It only cost about 7 buck per rotor to grind the back and the front. ALWAYS change the brakes on the same axle at the same time. This is for the newer noobs, sry dont know if you knew that.
There are 2 terms for the rotors: "DISK RUNOUT" and "DISK THICKNESS"

Runout is the correct term for "warped" rotors. If you notice any pulsating during braking, you need to turn the rotors. (IE take them to O'Reillys)
The minimum disk thickness should be imprinted somewhere on the disk, although I have never found it. They guys at Oreillys can look it up in the book as they measure it for you.
As far as disk runout, you CAN do it yourself. If you choose to, then you already know what the hell im talking about. Otherwise, take it to Oreillys.

Maximum disk runout:
Front: 0.0028 in (0.07 mm)
Rear:
1993-1999 models ----------- 0.0059 in (0.01 mm)
2000+ ---------------------- 0.0028 in (0.02 mm)

Maximum disk thickness variation:
Front: 0.0004in (0.01mm)
Rear: 0.0008in (0.02mm)

It is wise to turn the rotors every time you change brake pads. If you do not turn them, at least sand the rotors in a hand-held circular motion with sandpaper. The goal is at least to remove the glazing caused by friction.

Hope this helps. -- Mike

 

Bendix IQ pads work wonders....

 

He is right about the glazing that happens to the rotors. In fact, that is what happens more than actual warping to the rotors. There gets to be build-up on the rotors that make it feel like the rotor is warped. However, in my experience(and many others here on the .org), maxima rotors are too thin once you get them re-surfaced even once. They will actually "warp" very soon after that. Mine did it after 1k miles. Also, it is $15 at most places per rotor to get them re-surfaced. I would rather just pay the extra $5 per wheel to get all new rotors.
The sand paper idea is good though. You don't want to do too much scrubbing, but a little would be good.

 

Good point, brundady.

 

My preference:

Go get some rotors and pads from Autozone with the lifetime warranty; when you're pads wear down, take the pads and rotors back and get new ones.

 

sryth.... *wimper* no Autozone in Lincoln, NE.....

 

So drive 40 minutes

 

ha ha ha ha ha

 

generally depending on the mileage the rotors have on them all that is needed is a sanding of the rotor to remove the glazing and one can reuse them, however if the rotors are worn past the posted spec's found on the rotor need to discard and obtain new ones, often time warpage of rotors is due to the fact that the installer hadn't followed the proper torque value when installing the wheels ot the car thus generating more heat during brake usage which now the rotor is unable to dissapate in time therein warping the rotor