oddball86

hello, this is my first post so i don't know the inter workings of the forum yet, so forgive me if i ask anyhitng that's stupid or something like that. Anyway i will be purchasing a 1997 maxima se auto as soon as my current car dies. Which will most likely be by summer. Well, I'm thinking about what type of mods I would like to do ahead of time. I'm the type of person that likes to get everything worked out ahead of time. I plan on gettign a new suspension but that isn't the reason for my post. I want to get a CAI (probably injen's), headers, all the way back to the mufflers. For the headers i just thinking cattmann's one the comes withthe y pipe, and then like the geddy catback system. but if im going to spend so much money (i'm 17) i want to know what type of HP gains im going to see form it before i start. So if u could get me an idea of what to expect i would be very thankful.

Tyler

oddball86

anyone...

LastBoyScout

anything that makes it breath better is worth it.

i would look at doing fstb, a rsb

shave the emblems, rewire your fogs, you have an auto, or will have so do a valve body mod, drop resistor mod, and if you do the drop resistor mod, be sure to follow post #60 (very last post on page)
of this link
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....4&page=2&pp=30

other than that.....be sure to check the stickys on 4th gen mods and 4th gen
how-to's

btw.......welcome to the org....

PeTeRtheEaTeR

to start, I recommend a CAI on ebay.com and then get a y-pipe from budgetexhaust.com and a catback system. Try clicking on "MaxMods.Org" at the bottom of my signature for different parts, brands and prices to what suits you best.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

You will probably put down an extra 20hp or so to the wheels with the CAI, headers, and 2.5" catback.

If your going to be droping $1500 in performance mods like that then why don't you get a 5spd? It's gonna put you ahead of the game from the start. All those mods are just going to put you right around where a 5spd is stock.

icefishing

I'm with I30, go with the 5-speed. it's alot more fun to drive also.
Auto racing: smash the pedal and wait.
5-speed racing: Lift the left foot, smash the right, Lift right, smash left, right arm pull down, heart races along with the car,
Alot more fun

adroitcaptor

What the heck happened to all the people who had done the dynos read all the posts and what not? I leave for a couple months as my max is down and when I come back it is nothing but simple questions that could be answered with the search feature (I know it is not working). Headers on a maxima are a real bad idea unless they come with provisions for a turbo. lol There are about 15 'mods' that can be done before getting headers that will yeild much more power gain for the dollar. If you do not know how to use a 5spd, learn. Go get a 5spd max, they are cheaper and faster. A CIA and a full exhaust system on a auto might bring it up to the 5spd in the 1/4 but you still do not have the control. (My family has owned 5 Maximas, trust me on this one.) The stock air system is going to maximize your low end power. Where with a CIA you will have better throttle response, you might not gain too much except on the top end. (If I remember correctly this was the case based on the dyno tests done by many forum members.) Hope I did not blab too much! God bless

dan

oddball86

thxs for the replies, the reason why i dont really want a stick is cause i live in a city of minneapolis and it would be constant shifting, and two in mpls it gets extremely cold in the winter and i want a remote start. I could get a stick i'm just not sure if i want to go w/o remote start.

oddball86

also what are your opinions on a dry nos kit and cams?

adroitcaptor

Nitrous contains 36% more oxygen by weight then ambiant air. Thus it has an advantage expecially when induced under pressure. Because of the charicteristic it is considered "forced induction". Problem with a 'dry' kit is that you are putting more oxygen into your charge and not compensating with any fuel. Not only are you leaning your A/F mixture out and running much hotter then desired, you are not taking full advantage of Nitrous. The last two things to consider is that with nitrous you will be constantly filling your tank expecially if you use it! That and the fact it is illegal in all states that I know of to have your bottle hooked up to the system on the streets. This makes the upgrade to your engine worth a lot less.

Cams are great but you are always going to lose bottom end power in a properly tuned stock engine (which the VQ is). This is because with an (longer) overlap you are reducing cylinder pressure. Where this helps scavange your spent charge at a higher rpm your low end will suffer. Most companies claim about 15hp gain with their "performance" cam. The thing you need to realize, other then the previously stated factors, is that this gain is NOT gradual over your whole torque curve.

Final alalysis: I would do neither but instead invest your money where it is really going to make a difference in your when considering your wallet. For the average price of a Nitrous system (an effective one) you are looking at around a thousand dollars. A GOOD cam will run you from a thousand to fifteen hundred. When you take $2.5k and invest it wisely you have a basic turbo set up. Your yeilds from this are going to be MUCH greater with MUCH more potential.

Of course this is my .02 and you are entitled to think I am stupid and ugly. I hope this info helps and if you like I can get your tech sites from my other computer. Have a God blessed day

dan

oddball86

k. i really didnt want nos that much just thought i'd ask. also i wnated to know wha tthe cams would do for me and now that i know seems like a bit of cash to throw down on small gains. as for the turbo (i dont really want a super) what other mods need to be doen to the car to conpensate for it other than intake and exhuast? like electronics, fuel pumps, injectors. also is it worht it to turbo a auto or should i jsut do the exhuast and intake?

adroitcaptor

I would, it is the best "bang for the buck". You can match a turbo system to any engine really. Just for an example, a stock G T3 on the 280z and zxs reach their full boost potential almost 1500rpms below redline. Matching a turbo and trim might be a bit easier with the VB mod as it would help to keep your auto up in rpms.

As far as other 'mods' it depends really. I know that is not something someone trying to get educated wants to hear. Here is the real short of the situation. You can slap a turbo on with stock intake and what not. All you NEED is to compensate your fuel to air mixture so you don't melt a piston. I do not know the duty cycles of the max but with the Z's you can just trick the ECU by upping fuel pressure. This is something that is very specific to the car and as to what other componants you are utilizing.

If it was me, I would do the absolute minimum to get a turbo on there. You can then upgrade your throttle body, pipe in an IC, etc etc as you go along. If you do it the other way around it is my experience you are overwhelmed with "things you must buy" before the swap and you never get around to it. There again, I do not have a lot of extra cash and your situation might be different.

The best answer could be given by telling us the fallowing
-how much do you initially want to spend on your max
-what kind of max do you want and what are you not willing to comp. on.
- how much money would you (realistically) want to spend on your max total
- do you want mostly looks, mostly engine (be very specific
- how much research are you willing to do
- how mcuh of the work are you willing to do

To put all my blabbing in perspecting. I would rather spend 20-30 minutes/ valve and lap a them by hand then pay a machinist 150-250 bucks to grind my seats. I like to learn, I like to do it myself, and I like to save money! Hope this helps and God bless!

dan

DemonSpawn

NOS is a brand name of nitrous oxide kits .... NAWZ, well that's 2f2f and I'm going to pee in the bottle.

Any way, nitrous oxide really isn't such a bad option if you know what you're doing. Most people don't, so nitrous gets a bad reputation of not being safe or reliable. As far as legal ... well, most people on the board ar running an aftermarket y-pipe which isn't legal either, so who cares?

If you plan to go the nitrous route, do yourself a favor and ...

1. Run one step colder plugs. I think ZEX has plugs designed for nitrous kits.
2. Run the ZEX kit, it's quite a bit more reliable than the Holley NOS kit due to the fact that it monitors your bottle pressure and sprays accordingly.
4. Buy yourself some good gauges so you know what's going on : EGT, AFR, Fuel Pressure (maybe a nitrous pressure gauge too).
5. NEVER spray in 1st gear, you're just asking for trouble.
6. Learn what nitrous really is, how it works and what it does.
7. Upgrade your fuel pump and get an adjustable FPR.
8. I wouldn't run anything more than a 60 shot on an otherwise stock maxima - start around 40 and work your way up. Watch your gauges and know what your car is doing as you experiment.

EDIT: You'll probably need to retard your timing about 2 degrees as well to prevent detonation while spraying.

And most important ... have someone who knows what they're doing install it for you.

There's always debate about wet or dry kits, read up on how both work and what the pros and cons of either one is. Some camps swear by wet kits, some swear by dry kits. I've always run dry kits in previous cars with no problems.

But, when you think about it, for the cost of the nitrous kit and all the bottle refills over a year - you could have a turbo or sc

oddball86

Thxs again for all the replies. I was saying NOS cause its quicker to typer than nitrous oxide.

As for what am i willing to spend for the car. Well honestly, i don't have a set limit. But i dont have an endless supply of money. In fact i make rather little. As to what i am willing to spend on mods again i don't have set numbers. I don't like i said before have tons of money.

But i want to tint, lower it. I'm gettign 18's or 19's for it. Maybe a new paint job depending on what it looks like when i get it. Then after doing so some minor exterior mods like clear corners the new tailights (red and whites). I would like to do some engine mods. I'm thinking that what i might do is the whole exhuast and CAI. then stop there for a while to see how things go then go with possibly a small turbo setup or just save for a 5th gen?

what do u guys think?

oddball86

or should i just get a turbo kit first? Before the exhuast

DemonSpawn

If you get a turbo kit, you'll need a new exhaust to go along with it. More air in = more air out.

If you don't have a lot of cash to drop on your car, keep the mods light. Do what you can, when you can.

From your posts, it seems like you're more into the aesthetic mods than the engine mods. That's cool too, if you think about it, the max is already a relatively quick car. Just keep in mind that if you get bigger (heavier) rims, it'll slow you down due to the extra weight. So, to get bigger light weight rims, you're talking a lot of $$$.

If more performance is what you're ultimately after, I'd hold off on the appearance modifications: function before form.

First thing people seem to do is an intake and y-pipe. That'll give you, from what I've read, about 20HP or so. Cost should be about $250-$300.

Really, you have to figure out what you want out of your car and plan accordingly.

oddball86

yeah u guys have given me quite a bit to think about. depending on if i get a new job this summer will dictate the mods i can do, so i'll think i'll leave it at that for now. BTW what do u guys think about mille milgia rims?

fearthegecko

you've got a couple of good ideas there, but i'd like to dispel a coupe of myths:

1. DO NOT DO THIS!!!!! Ask the people who have done it and f'ed up their trannies. Ask the mechanics who constantly have to fix them because of this "mod". If you have an auto the only mod for it is a valve body upgrade, other than replacing the torque converter.

2. the cattman headers are not included with the y-pipe.

3. The cams and headers are made with the intention of staying naturally aspirated, not boosted. You'll see more gains with an NA car with these.

4. You sound like you want to mod every aspect of the car, but develop a plan.
Do you want to race? 1/4 mile or autocross? THat alone makes a big difference in what you plan on modding. If you're going for autocross, maybe you would want to work on your suspension and handling before you go for all-out power.
How do you plan on boosting your car? I've heard NO2 and Turbos being mentioned, but have you considered a supercharger? It's safer and more reliable for your car, nevermind never having to worry about turbo lag. Also, at 17, i doubt you'd want to have to pay for a new engine after spending $3500-4400 on a turbo kit. Plan what you are going to do to your car, or you'll wind up wasting money.

5. As far as the y-pipe, there is a group deal on the warpspeed y-pipe. It's better than the budget, and right now it's cheaper. I just had mine installed, and it's amazing. And as far as gains: With a CAI, you're looking at 10-15hp, and with a y-pipe, you're looking at 20 HP @ the wheels .

Welcome to the org.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

for once i agree with you. it took me a lot of money to make my auto fast. stock i was getting whupped by the manual guys. thats what made me want to invest in making it quicker.

oddball86

i dont plan on racing the car much if ever, maybe a few times at a track to get some numbers on it but thats it. I would prefer a turbo cuase from charts i have seen u get better gains off of them over a super and the same amount of boost that and im would only be getting a little turbo so the lag shouldnt be too bad. And I plan on doing the VBU and a tranny cooler with it

oddball86

BTW, i'm pretty set on the auto. As i said i'm not going to be racing it. I jsut want to have a quick car. I have 2 hobbies car audio and the cars themselves. I liek doing this sype of stuff like designing and building and installing my entire setero and tuning it. the same idea holds ture to cars. Hopefully u guys can follow that i've never been too good at explaining things

fearthegecko

See now that you said little turbo, i'm under the impression that you'll be building your own custom turbo setup and not going with the same kit that everyone else has?

oddball86

well i could if i wanted to i suppose, but the pfispeed i think that is the site there turbo is 4 psi. which is far form what i woudl call a large amount of boost or a large turbo right?

adroitcaptor

A properly installed turbo system is no more harsh on your engine then a SC kit. Just remember you can never do too much research on this topic.

From the sounds of things, I would not even worry about a turbo in the next 2-4 years. If you are not interested in racing it, the turbo will only get you in to trouble and run you a large debt.

The resister mod is the dumbest and most idiotic thing I have ever heard of. These stooges sell those things on ebay, and if lasboyscout is talking about the same thing, I would ignore anything he says. You might as well put a wet tornado in your intake. lol

To be honest about it dude, if you are not interested in racing, do not worry about light rimso or a 5spd, just get the car looking how you want it. You can rice it out or race it out all night long but when it comes down to it, buying what you want is what will make you happy. Do not go out and buy the farm just because you like the dog on the porch. (Made that one up just now. lol)

As others said, stay with stock headers. If you want to change the exhaust, get a Y pipe, B pipe, and muffler. A high flow cat is a waste of your money untill you are puting on a turbo. Also, DO NOT increase the pipe diameter. Whatever it is comming out of the header, stick with that all the way back (including through the muffler). Do not ask for help with making more power and then put on a rice can muffler and ask me why it is not fast. Now days it is safe to say "if it is an import and it sounds fast, it is slow".

As for the paint job, get what you want when you first buy the car. A good paint job (as good as stock) will run you more then all the aftermarket parts you are talking about buying. If the max does not come in the color you want, put it on the end of your list.

Again, get what you want the first time. Puting money into a car just to sell it is a bad idea (creates a lot of negative equity). If you like the 5th gen looks better save up and buy that.

Back to the turbo system, I suggested you go with a smaller turbo custom set up for a couple reasons. One you will reduce most of your lag with a well tuned system. Second you will save a lot of money. And third, if you go with a big turbo you should be overhauling your engine and I know you do not want to put that kind of money in it.

My BIGGEST peice of advice is this. Get a pad and a pen and start writing all this down. Make a list of every mod you ever could want and put the price next to it. Then select what you want the MOST. Remember you are poor and can't afford it all even in two years time. Also consider you will have other problems in your life that will drain your money (like a girl friend). Once you have all the mods you like best get another peice of paper out. Pick the year (95-96 look different then 97-99), the color (important) both interior and exterior, auto, select what options you want, and anything else you can think of. Find a picture on the internet that looks like what you want and tape it to the bottom. Hang it on your wall and start saving. Do not go out and buy the first one you see. I have noticed if you are pacient, every 6 months or so there is a surplus of max's in the paper and what not. The prices will drop about a grand to two grand or so (which is a lot for how much they run now). Lastly PM me, email me, or get me on aim when you are ready to buy. None of my friends ever listen to me (except one) and they all have gotten ripped off (except one). No, I am not being pompous. Have fun and God bless! (I didn't spell check or look over what I wrote as I am now late so... sorry! lol)

dan

fearthegecko

I heard that the pfispeed kit is a bad design, and actually an inferior product. I COULD BE WRONG, but this is what i was told by another member.

Ain't that the truth..............


Very well put androit. I agree to keep the paint till the last thing. I'm planning on just repainting the car in the original color (roughly $1000), and if i'd done it already, the amount of scratches and dings since then would've killed me.