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Look at the engine stall that nobody can get the reason!!

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Old 04-01-2004, 05:24 PM
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Look at the engine stall that nobody can get the reason!!

Hello all!
My 95 Max get a soooooo strange problem of engine stall that no one can tell the true reason
3 week ago, I found that my max get engine stalling while change to local (speed slow down) after 15-20 mins highway driven. In the last 3 weeks,I send it to NISSAN dealer and they just put the computer on and the told me that "u got bad KS, starter werout, ingnition swith wear out, break, lower control arm bushing......." I ask them, which one is the reason that cause stalling? they said "all can be. but your car with us is ok, no problem."
But I know from here that the KS did not kill engine at all!!!! and when i drive back home, it stall again!!
Then I go back and leave it with them for another diagnose. Next day, they told me: We found it, it is Crank Shaft Position sensor caused misfire and still bala bala...
then I get the CSP changed with a used one which from another runing car from my friend and gone back to them again. This time they said your brake is no good and technician refuse to make road test...

I go to another grage and get brake caliper changed, people here said is looks like transmission problem. Then I go to AMMCO. After few road test and checked the pan, they said the tranny looks good although there's some metal pieces in the pan. It looks like the electrical problem. Then they said only dealer can do that job for me.
Now, I was back to dealer again............They said will check with computer and do some physical check......

Let me try to discribe the problem and maybe someone get the same situations like I got:
While on local drive, it seems ok. Once I had a technician with the OBD2 on car and drived 40Mins, nothing happen.
After 15-20min highway drive, sometimes u feel the car draging, push the gas, it not going faster. if u realse gas padel, it stall. That's why it happens at the traffic light after I get out of highway. You crank it, it seems no idel but u give gas, it will be ok, keep idal at 700 something like normal. After that, when engage D, and give gas, the RPM not going high, but drop to 400 and gonna stall. U push gas harder, it run.
Tranny fluid is ok, no burning smell and clear and enough.

Can any boddy had the same problem before?

Thanks for your time!!! I appreciate any idea and suggestion.
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Old 04-01-2004, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ARVY
Hello all!
My 95 Max has a strange problem with the engine stalling and no one can find why
3 week ago, I found that my max's engine was stalling while slowing down, this was after 15-20 mins of highway driving. In the last 3 weeks, I have taken it to a NISSAN dealer and they just put the computer on and the told me that "u got bad KS, starter wear out, ingnition switch wear out, brakes, lower control arm bushing......." I asked them, which one is the reason that is causing the engine to stall? they said "all can be but your car looks ok to us, no problem."
But I know from here that the KS did not kill engine at all!!!! actually the knocksensor can cause your engine to lose a lot of powerand when i drive back home, it stalled again!!
Then I went back and left it with them for another diagnose. The next day they told me: We found it, it was the Crank Shaft Position sensor causing misfire and still blah blah...
then I get the CSP changed with a used one a friend of mine had on a running car, then I went back to the same shop again. This time they said your brakes are no good and the technician refused to make road test...

I went to another garage to get the brake caliper changed, the techs there said it looks like a transmission problem. Then I go to AMMCO. After a few road tests they checked the tranny pan, they said the tranny looks good although there's some metal pieces in the pan. It looks like the electrical problem. Then they said only the dealer can do that job for me.

Now, I was back at the dealer again............They said they will check the computer and do some physical check......

Let me try to describe the problem, maybe someone has the same kinds of problems as I do:
While driving through the city, it seems ok. Once I had a technician with a OBD2 scan tool on the car and I drove it for 40Mins but nothing happened during this time.
After 15-20min on the highway, you feel the car draging, push the gas and it does not go any faster. If you release the gas pedal it stalls. That's what happens at the traffic light after I get off the highway. You crank it, it seems no idel but u give gas, it will be ok, keep idal at 700 something like normal are you saying that it will not start without applying the gas here?. After that, while in D (drive) and you give it gas, the RPM's do not go up, but drop to 400 and gonna stall. If you push the gas harder, it will run.
Tranny fluid is ok, no burning smell and clear and enough.

Can any boddy had the same problem before?

Thanks for your time!!! I appreciate any idea and suggestion.
I am sorry but I can't understand one sentence of the above.

Did you replace your knock sensor?

What kind of gas are you running (what octane- regular unleaded, unleaded plus, or premium.)

Take your car to autozone and have them run the codes for free, then post what you find.

Try to slow down and describe the problem a little more clearly.

EDIT I tried to retype your post so it makes more sense (I didn't do a very thorough job though), let me know if that is correct. Also when is the last time basic maintenance was done on the car (fuel filter etc) and how many miles does your car have??
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:01 PM
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Sorry for my poor english and emptiness about car. Let me try to answer as I can..

[[Did you replace your knock sensor?]]
No. Dealer ask me to do that and I know from here that KS not light the CEL and stall the engine, right?

[[What kind of gas are you running (what octane- regular unleaded, unleaded plus, or premium.)]]

I use 87 for last 7 month since I bought it.

[[Take your car to autozone and have them run the codes for free, then post what you find.]]
I had read the code by myself from the way show here and one frage had read it either by OBD2.But I know the Crank Shaft Position code are old one and I had get it changed. KS code is always there maybe it really gone.

[[You crank it, it seems no idel but u give gas, it will be ok, keep idal at 700 something like normal]] are you saying that it will not start without applying the gas here?.
Yes, usually if u crank few times, it will start but can not hold on. If you give gas, maybe it will hold on idle.

the problem is after drive on highway for 15-20mins, when you try to slow down(u release gas pedal), like the u stop at the first crossing on local, it stall. If it did not stall at red light, but when you ready to go, you step on gas pedal, engine RPM not going up but down untill stall. If you step gas quick and hard, RPM still will going down first to 400 but maybe not stall and car rush out suddenly (cause RPM getting high cause I step padel hard) and u can feel there's a suden engage of gear something.

While you driving at high speed, some times u can feel u are draging something. like some body grip your breath then loose then grip then loose.....I mean you can feel the resistance get big suddenly and go suddenly then again and again....
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ARVY
Sorry for my poor english and emptiness about car. Let me try to answer as I can..
That's what I figured, no problem

Did you replace your knock sensor?
No. Dealer ask me to do that and I know from here that KS not light the CEL and stall the engine, right?
Wrong, a bad knock sensor will drastically cut back power, or a good knock sensor that hears knock because you are running crappy 87 octane will also cut back power (Change your Knock sensor)

What kind of gas are you running (what octane- regular unleaded, unleaded plus, or premium.)

I use 87 for last 7 month since I bought it.
You are killing your car, put premium in it. You probably have carbon build up in the engine, get some BG 44k. Put the 44k in the gas tank. Do this after your next oil change too. Change your knock sensor and start putting premium in your car!!!

How many miles, when was the last time this car had a tune up. I suggest reading the How 2's here and doing a full 60,000 mile tune up if you do not know when it was last serviced.

I had read the code by myself from the way show here and one frage had read it either by OBD2.But I know the Crank Shaft Position code are old one and I had get it changed. KS code is always there maybe it really gone.

the problem is after drive on highway for 15-20mins, when you try to slow down(u release gas pedal), like the u stop at the first crossing on local, it stall. ....
Do what I said above, if that doesn't work get back to me. If you change the knock sensor and it runs fine please do not stop there. Do the full 60,000 mile tune up as listed in the How 2's, and I would run some 44k through your engine with the next two oil changes, then put nothing but premium in it.
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Old 04-01-2004, 06:35 PM
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OK, thanx Reeper!
My car is with dealer and they will tell me what to do tomorrow.
If they ask me to replace the KS, I will.

About 60k Tune up.
Except PCV valve and Coolant, others I had done bit by bit.
I get new fule/air filter last Sep by my self; New spark plug( say junk Champion) at same time; new driven belt in Oct. Oil change every 5000km; tranny fluid days ago cause they opened the pan and check the tranny for me.
Maybe I got get new spark plug. I rember that someone said that NGK regular is ok for it, right? must I use platinum ones?

Thanx a lot!
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Old 04-01-2004, 07:01 PM
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oh my, chang eyour sparkplugs, champions?!?! those are lawnmower plugs :P

anyways put NGK V-power coppers BKR5E-11 or if your funds allow put NGK platinums...
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Old 04-02-2004, 02:03 PM
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do two things...go to a junk yard and get a used Mass air flow and try that for the hell of it....i got one for 40 bucks and returned it when it didnt help my problem and take the harness in the passenger side firewall and try to shake it and see if the RPMS or car stalls. I had 2 broken wires that would cause strange problems and stalling. Turned out the two wires that were broke were the MAF and the Crank position sensor both of which cause the car to stall at weird times. its worth a shot
btw: nissan also knows about this problem and have released new clips that hold your harness on.
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Old 04-03-2004, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 97MaximaSE
do two things...go to a junk yard and get a used Mass air flow and try that for the hell of it....i got one for 40 bucks and returned it when it didnt help my problem and take the harness in the passenger side firewall and try to shake it and see if the RPMS or car stalls. I had 2 broken wires that would cause strange problems and stalling. Turned out the two wires that were broke were the MAF and the Crank position sensor both of which cause the car to stall at weird times. its worth a shot
btw: nissan also knows about this problem and have released new clips that hold your harness on.
Thanx a lot.
Now they gonna replace the Crank SENSOR and KS for me at $500 .
It will be done on Mon. Then I can find how it works............
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Old 04-03-2004, 04:47 PM
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Dude you're getting ripped off. The KS is a $90 parts and the crankis even less than that if I remember correctly. Do them yourself, save your money for a y-pipe.
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