when i accelerate slowly it sorta studders as if it isnt getting enough fuel or not getting enough air. when i floor it i have no problems but at normal driving my car is quite slugish. does anybody think it might be the fuel filter, its never been changed and i have like 118K miles. do you think it could be the coils as well. plugs are new and i do have an injen CAI. please send me any info or suggestions. P.S im getting no codes but id like to know if changing the knock sensor can help.

 

it sounds like what mines doing..except im gettin 02 sensor codes

 

oh and i changed my fuel fitler and plugs still does it

 

damn im hoping it isnt something expensive, i dont know bout u but my pockets are mad at me right now, i hav lil to no money for repairs right now

 

i have the same problem...changing the knock sensor,fuel filter,and plugs this weekend.hopefully that'll do it.If not I dont know.i have a PR intake so its not air,and new o2 sensors,so its not that.hopefully this will work.

 

What kind of sparkplugs?

I would tell you coilpacks but I see you dont have a 99 max... From what i've seen everyone who has had coil pack problems had a 99 max...

 

im running ngk plats, i heard that coil pack problems were mainly for 99's but that it could happen on all the years. how do i know if my fuel injectors are bad, i hear a tickin noise coming from the engine right around the area of the injectors, or maybe it is the plugs firing.

 

Our injectors are loud from factory so that shouldn't be a worry... I had hesitation just like you, when I changed my fuel filter/pcv valve/clean throttle body/clean IACV and replace my knock sensor it all went away :P Have you tried any of the above?

 

cleaned TB when i put in the CAI about a month ago. i replaced pcv valve a year ago, and i dont know what the iacv is and how do i clean it. any write up or pictures on how to do this?

 

Its in the " how to " post

 

Now that it's getting warmer, more humid, and the air pressure is lower, I'm noticing a slight stumble/bog occuring between 2600-2900rpms which is mostly noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear under normal acceleration. It's amazing because this happens like clockwork every Spring and if you notice, the Org will become flooded with posts about boggy low end acceleration and low rpm stumble/bogging. I think it's mostly weather related. You way also want to test/inspect your MAF ground and inspect the MAF sensor elements of build up.


Dave

 

Thats so true, I live in miami so I dont notice a change, my cars slow all year around :P

 

lol yea im jus a lil north of you in hollywood so i doubt it is temperature change since for the most part we are pretty mild-hot down here in south florida all year long. i will tighten my throttle cable and check some other things out on the car tomorow. any other suggestions guys.

 

well i just changed my fuel filter and this has helped drasticly. it took me about 20 mins to do and went through with no problem. after changing the filter my idle was so much better and acceleration improved drasticly. This was a great maintainance repair and it also helped my performance as well. I opened my old filter(was a bish to do) and it was FILTHY AS HELL!!!! there was a film of dirt lining the filter and dirt build up. there was still fuel in the filter and when it came out is was brown and dirty as well. id h8 to see what my tank looks like. i hink im going to change my filter every year, i feel so bad i was feeding my baby such dirty gasoline. im going to drive more to see if my studdering is still around, if it is what do you think the problem could be?

 

=) do everything I did and your stuttering will probably get better, check for KS codes.

 

STUTTERING IS STILL THERE ARRRRGGHHHH!!!!!!! now i am totaly clueless on what to do. i was driving at around 40 mph and i started to feel a studder in the car. i just checked codes and it all comes out clear. i am clue less on what to do now. anyone know what else this could be. here is a list of everything ive done within the past 6 months.

1 oil changes
2 coolant change
3 TB clean
4 change spark plugs
5 changed pcv valve
6 changed egr solenoid valve
7 installed injen clone cai
8 added injector cleaner into gas tank

does nayone know what my problem could be, i am gettin no codes and am runing outta ideas. i need some instructions on how to clean iac (sp?) valve. i dont know what it is, where it is or how to do it. i found instructions posted in the stickies but they are very vauge. i want to have my car in tip top shape cause i hope to compete at the race event in moroso next week. please help guys!!!

 

Maybe coilpacks. Can you get it to consistenly studder at idle? When I had coilpack issues, I could get it to consistenly studder while in drive at idle (hand brake pulled of course). I got out, opened up hood, and pulled the connectors to the coil packs 1 by 1 until I found the offending cylinder. I found the bad cylinder by noticing no change in stutter when pulling the connector to the coil pack. If you can't get it to studder at idle, maybe wait 2-4 more weeks....because it will get worse.

Initially I had a studder randomly, and not very often. Then I started having problems like yours...studder when initially taking off, then fine after it gets going. Then it got worse.

 

yea its not that bad where it is studdering constantly at idle, its more like every 10-15 mins and it only lasts for like 5 seconds. damn im hoping it doesnt get worse, i really dont want to spend 300+bux for coils. is there anything else it could be. im starting to conclude it is the coil pack as well and will wait it out to see if it gets better or worse.

***** just wanted to add... if i get a coilpack going bad why doesnt my ecu detect it. i know there are codes for cylinder missfire. is that what a bad coil pack does

 

You won't always get a code unfortunately. I bet the ECU just monitors a voltage or resistance out of the coil and injectors. If it reads that the coil or injector is "good" then no light/code for specific cylinder misfire. I've read a few guys having a buncha coil packs sitting around that test good with an ohmmeter, but once you put them into the car...they will misfire (I'm one of those guys now...lol). One time I did have a CEL for a specific cylinder misfire, and it was when my injector went completely dead. This injector on the bench read 0 ohms between the two leads (normally 10-14).

If you wanna save some money...just wait till it gets worse, and replace them one by one as they go bad. This can be very frustrating tho. Though I recommend waiting till one goes bad consistently...because when you isolate the cylinder that misfires, you can look at that cylinder very carefully (it could be an injector for instance which is more $$$).

I remember one of my cylinders was misfiring before, and when I isolated it, I found the rubber boot had come off of the coil pack...not allowing the stem of the coil pack to seat properly. **** like that happens...operator error in installing the coil pack.

So in the end of my 4 month failure after failure...I've replaced 4 coil packs with some nice almost new junkyard ones, and 2 from an on-line dealer. Total cost: $220. I really didn't need to replace the front ones, but after the first 3 rear ones, I just went ahead and replaced the fronts as well. PITA I tell you...but I figure she finally needed a good tuneup.

-Isaac
'95 max w/ 235K miles.

 

thanx for all ur help izzy, sober and everyone else who replied, i really appreciate it. i guess i will just wait it out and see how it goes. i feel like it is getting worse since the studder is happening more frequently and is lasting longer. ill keep u guys updated.

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