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Eibach Springs!!1

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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:17 AM
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Eibach Springs!!1

Yea i finally made my decision and im buying my boys used eibach springs for 150. I am pairing it with kyb gr2s and the only question i have is, i have a stock supension right now, and i know the eibhachs are real stiff. do y0u guys think my parents would realise how harsh the ride is? would it take away the comfortable feeling of the maxima? and one more question i havent seen a dropped 4th gen in real life, could u tell if it is dropped? would the eibachs make a little difference?
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
Yea i finally made my decision and im buying my boys used eibach springs for 150. I am pairing it with kyb gr2s and the only question i have is, i have a stock supension right now, and i know the eibhachs are real stiff. do y0u guys think my parents would realise how harsh the ride is? would it take away the comfortable feeling of the maxima? and one more question i havent seen a dropped 4th gen in real life, could u tell if it is dropped? would the eibachs make a little difference?
Well just to warn you the eibach's are considered the stiffest and highest performing springs for the max so they will prob notice. Also I don't suggest you get the gr2's since they aren't strong enough to handle the eibach's and will most likely break. Check this site out for all you max modding needs:

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/

Good Luck
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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my parents havent noticed but i got them teamed up with tokico illuminas and plus i got sport tires, its really only harsh when you hit potholes, sewer caps and etc... but that might be because of my tires. I had the gle springs and when i changed to eibach, the only thing that i felt was different was that it didnt bounce. I'm happy with the springs and tokico illuminas .
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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**** man i thougt eibachs were good. **** it u know wat im goin to get maxspeeds with the gr2s or should i stick with the eibahcs man im so ****en confused i need help, i checked all those sites already, i want the ****en wheel gap gone thats basically it, and i dont want to ****en dodge every bump, someone please help me b4 i **** up my car
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:00 AM
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i think as long as u dont have low profile tires then the ride will be fine
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:01 AM
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wow u got mad censored on that post, haha
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 96max5sp
Well just to warn you the eibach's are considered the stiffest and highest performing springs for the max so they will prob notice. Also I don't suggest you get the gr2's since they aren't strong enough to handle the eibach's and will most likely break. Check this site out for all you max modding needs:

http://maxmods.dyndns.org/

Good Luck
Who told you that about Eibachs being the most harsh spring? Where did you get any/all of your information?
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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uhm so go with the eibachs? i guess i will, i mean they are eibachs. and would the drop be noticeable honestly guys. lol plus the way i drive dam im going to need those eibachs, this january i was doing like 60 on a turn ended up driving off the righthand side of the road to the left hand side sidewalk on the otherside of the street in 4feet a snow
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
uhm so go with the eibachs? i guess i will, i mean they are eibachs. and would the drop be noticeable honestly guys.
Yes, you will notice the drop. They will not looke slammed, but will show a drop. If you want somethign lower, look at the suspension information thread.

On the first page of the 4th gen forum is a whole thread about the different suspension setups. Eibachs are rated as the 3rd most comfortable spring. Read the whole thread for more information on spring characteristics.


Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
lol plus the way i drive dam im going to need those eibachs, this january i was doing like 60 on a turn ended up driving off the righthand side of the road to the left hand side sidewalk on the otherside of the street in 4feet a snow
They are not fawking magic. If you drive too fast you will still go off the road. Your tires have more to do with grip than the suspension.

If you went off the road in the snow and think that springs will fix it, you don't need mods- you need driver's ed.
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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LOLLLLLLLLLLLL neways tanx for the info man i appreciate it i guess im going with the eibachs
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:14 AM
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soo neone has pix or other comments about the eibach springs?
Old Apr 12, 2004 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Who told you that about Eibachs being the most harsh spring? Where did you get any/all of your information?
I got the info from the wesite i linked in my post it says:

Eibach Pro-kit Springs
Description: The Eibach Pro-kit has a 1.5" front 1.3" rear drop and are known to be one of the stiffest springs short of coilovers for the 4th Generation Maxima. Probably one of the top performing springs (next to race coilovers) due to the stiffness and ride height. These springs are known to be stiff and should be paired with Koni Yellows, KYB AGX, or Tokico Illuminas.
Pics: http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~drewm/maxima/max1.jpg
Cheapest price: $189.08 from http://www.adventon.com/

Also you should get the better shox if you are getting the eibach's cause I heard that the stiffer the spring the better shox you should get or they might bust. Just take a look at the website i linked it tells you what springs and shox you should pair together and all the info you need.
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 96max5sp
I got the info from the wesite i linked in my post it says:

Eibach Pro-kit Springs
Description: The Eibach Pro-kit has a 1.5" front 1.3" rear drop and are known to be one of the stiffest springs short of coilovers for the 4th Generation Maxima. Probably one of the top performing springs (next to race coilovers) due to the stiffness and ride height. These springs are known to be stiff and should be paired with Koni Yellows, KYB AGX, or Tokico Illuminas.
Pics: http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~drewm/maxima/max1.jpg
Cheapest price: $189.08 from http://www.adventon.com/

Also you should get the better shox if you are getting the eibach's cause I heard that the stiffer the spring the better shox you should get or they might bust. Just take a look at the website i linked it tells you what springs and shox you should pair together and all the info you need.
That site is not accurate on several points. Not saying that the guy meant to misinform, because the page is a great resource, but there are several points of misinformation on that page- several of which I can attest to personally, others based on tons of research.

Of course, harshness/stiffness is a matter of subjectivity, so the info could just be based on different opinions, but THIS THREAD, which is an adaptation of an older thread, contradicts the site that you listed.

We do agree as to strut replacement, andit is important to note that strut selection can have a LOT to do with how a spring rides...
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
That site is not accurate on several points. Not saying that the guy meant to misinform, because the page is a great resource, but there are several points of misinformation on that page- several of which I can attest to personally, others based on tons of research.

Of course, harshness/stiffness is a matter of subjectivity, so the info could just be based on different opinions, but THIS THREAD, which is an adaptation of an older thread, contradicts the site that you listed.

We do agree as to strut replacement, andit is important to note that strut selection can have a LOT to do with how a spring rides...
I do agree that the strut (and strut setting) makes a huge difference in ride quality. In a lot of cases even more than the spring does. Currently my Eibach/Koni is set at max and rides very very close in ride quality to mingo's JIC setup.

But I would like to come to a common agreement about spring rates and stiffnesses, I feel that would benefit the org very much. But I do feel that there are a few items on your page that are also not quite right. I actually think a new thread calling on the knowledgeable members to rank the stiffness of springs (independent of shocks) would be very useful.
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by drewm
But I would like to come to a common agreement about spring rates and stiffnesses, I feel that would benefit the org very much. But I do feel that there are a few items on your page that are also not quite right. I actually think a new thread calling on the knowledgeable members to rank the stiffness of springs (independent of shocks) would be very useful.
We have tried that countless times. I have only riddenin 3 different set-ups but all have had different struts, and as we all agree, that can be the X factor in spring rankings. If we could get some people who have run different setups on the SAME struts to chime in, that woudl be great. But most people either change the whole shebang, or they change struts. I know that I would still be on H&Rs if it were not for their reputation to ride nose-high on 5MT 4th gens.
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:16 AM
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I had Eibachs then switched to sprints to reduce the wheel gap. Eibachs are not that harsh and they perform pretty well,The just didn't go low enough for me.
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 09:21 AM
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whats a 5mt
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 10:35 AM
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5 speed manual transmission...
Old Apr 13, 2004 | 02:50 PM
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I don't even know where to begin with this thread.

The "harshness" of a spring or strut is totally subjective. I don't trust 95% of opinions on the org when it comes to suspension or performance mods. People will say that their sprint springs with stock struts rides like stock, that they don't think their y-pipe gave them any HP, or that their new intake design has made their car sooo much faster.

That site that gets thrown around all the time Drewmods or whatever is not the holy bible of spring and struts. It's a referance of people opinions. It says that Eibachs should not be paired with GR-2's???? That is crazy because that is a pretty good combo. The stiffness of a spring is not what is most important to what strut to use. The amount of the drop is what mostly determines if a strut will work with that spring or not. Certin struts are valved to work at certin heights, and GR-2's are not really valved to work at a 2"+ drop, they are for less than a 1.5" drop.
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I don't even know where to begin with this thread.

The "harshness" of a spring or strut is totally subjective. I don't trust 95% of opinions on the org when it comes to suspension or performance mods. People will say that their sprint springs with stock struts rides like stock, that they don't think their y-pipe gave them any HP, or that their new intake design has made their car sooo much faster.

That site that gets thrown around all the time Drewmods or whatever is not the holy bible of spring and struts. It's a referance of people opinions. It says that Eibachs should not be paired with GR-2's???? That is crazy because that is a pretty good combo. The stiffness of a spring is not what is most important to what strut to use. The amount of the drop is what mostly determines if a strut will work with that spring or not. Certin struts are valved to work at certin heights, and GR-2's are not really valved to work at a 2"+ drop, they are for less than a 1.5" drop.
I say the same thing...The misconception w/ GR2 applications is startling. People want to avoid using it w/ springs lower than 1.5"...which limits them to stock, H&R, and Tein H-Tech. Same w/ Tokico HP struts...Basically, people follow these "rules" that some advice threads/sites give them, and they end up in a state of confusion. My "New Suspension Thread" is prefaced by saying that it is all subjective and opinion. I took a lot of time to compare info and feedback from a few MONTHS worth of posts, and in the end everything was STILL contradictory.

My advice to people who want to do a drop- go to your regional forum and ask to RIDE IN or DRIVE different setups. This is the only way to get a feel for what will be the best for you.

The only thing that CAN be verified is the distance of a drop, and even that changes based on other factors.
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
I say the same thing...The misconception w/ GR2 applications is startling. People want to avoid using it w/ springs lower than 1.5"...which limits them to stock, H&R, and Tein H-Tech. Same w/ Tokico HP struts...Basically, people follow these "rules" that some advice threads/sites give them, and they end up in a state of confusion. My "New Suspension Thread" is prefaced by saying that it is all subjective and opinion. I took a lot of time to compare info and feedback from a few MONTHS worth of posts, and in the end everything was STILL contradictory.

My advice to people who want to do a drop- go to your regional forum and ask to RIDE IN or DRIVE different setups. This is the only way to get a feel for what will be the best for you.

The only thing that CAN be verified is the distance of a drop, and even that changes based on other factors.
I receieve a lot of contradictory information too, but it is my job to weed it out, go with the expierences of people I know who are knowledgeable, and compile my information based off that.

It's not that GR-2s don't provide enough dampening (but from my opinion for performance they don't), it's that I've heard way too many stories of people coupling them with stiff springs and their shocks either blowing, or becoming soft over time. And even worse are the Tokico Blues. Cheston's (chebosto) rears lasted 10k miles coupled with his Eibachs back in the days. Njmaxseld's rear Blues also didn't last very long on H&Rs. And these two are just off the top of my head. It's not cheap to have to buy new shocks for the second time, and then pay again for the labor to install them. I'm just preventing people from having to do labor job, after labor job, and have them pick the right setup the first time.
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by drewm
I receieve a lot of contradictory information too, but it is my job to weed it out, go with the expierences of people I know who are knowledgeable, and compile my information based off that.

It's not that GR-2s don't provide enough dampening (but from my opinion for performance they don't), it's that I've heard way too many stories of people coupling them with stiff springs and their shocks either blowing, or becoming soft over time. And even worse are the Tokico Blues. Cheston's (chebosto) rears lasted 10k miles coupled with his Eibachs back in the days. Njmaxseld's rear Blues also didn't last very long on H&Rs. And these two are just off the top of my head. It's not cheap to have to buy new shocks for the second time, and then pay again for the labor to install them. I'm just preventing people from having to do labor job, after labor job, and have them pick the right setup the first time.
You definately do a service to the org with the information that you have compiled, and I hope that you did nto think that I was bashing you or your page with anything that I have said about it. Like we have all agreed, ther is a LOT of subjectivity in suspension ratings, and you have done a great job of making your page. I suppose that even those places where my opinion is at odds with yours, again it is OPINION and not fact where we differ.

You make an excellent point about costs associate with making unwise choices, and your assessment of the woes of the Tok HPs and their failures is certainly worthwhile information. I guess th epronblem with the GR2s is that the results are so mixed. Sure, they should not be run on sprints, or even somethign liek my Intrax, but there are a LOT of people who have run them on Eibachs w/o problems- granted that is not a particularly low/firm spring.

Anyway, I think that your info and what I have compiled workl well to help educate people as to what they MAY purchase...and whe all else fails, they just repost the same questions anyway!
Old Apr 14, 2004 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1
You definately do a service to the org with the information that you have compiled, and I hope that you did nto think that I was bashing you or your page with anything that I have said about it. Like we have all agreed, ther is a LOT of subjectivity in suspension ratings, and you have done a great job of making your page. I suppose that even those places where my opinion is at odds with yours, again it is OPINION and not fact where we differ.

You make an excellent point about costs associate with making unwise choices, and your assessment of the woes of the Tok HPs and their failures is certainly worthwhile information. I guess th epronblem with the GR2s is that the results are so mixed. Sure, they should not be run on sprints, or even somethign liek my Intrax, but there are a LOT of people who have run them on Eibachs w/o problems- granted that is not a particularly low/firm spring.

Anyway, I think that your info and what I have compiled workl well to help educate people as to what they MAY purchase...and whe all else fails, they just repost the same questions anyway!
Old Apr 15, 2004 | 08:41 AM
  #24  
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Confused here as well. I am about to purchase KYB GR2's and H&R springs TODAY....but after reading the previous posts here I am not sure now...

I want to a small drop with a bit stiffer ride on my 95 SE which has 131k.

I have read the maxmods.dyndns.org section at least 3 times. I am confused after reading this thread posted and what it says in suspenion mods section......

"KYB GR2 Shocks Description: Supposedly very similar to a KYB AGX except the damping settings are fixed at around an AGX setting of 2/4 which is 10 to 15% firmer than oem. They will usually last between 20k-100k miles on a car with an aftermarket suspension depending on the stiffness of the spring before leaking or getting very soft. It is not recommended to be paired up with the stiffer springs."

Okay. I rather take a "poll" here and ask each of you guys for your own personal recommendation on which spring to use with the GR2's before I spend my money.

Note: My Maxima is a 100 mile per day driver and will see very few modifications in the future. (Except for 17" wheels & tires)

Thanks in advance for each recommendation!!!

chris
Old Apr 15, 2004 | 08:48 AM
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H&R on GR2 is a common combo that seems to work well together. The strut is firm enough to control the spring w/o much of a problem, and an H&R spring will feel a little tighter than 131K OEM suspension, but it will not be a bad move. Handling will definately be improved. I would say that it is a good setup if you do a lot of driving where comfort is a priority.
Old Apr 15, 2004 | 09:18 AM
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Hi Chris, check out my webpage it may help you, I have Eibach's (only on stock SE struts, so softer ride) and 17" wheels so it will give you an idea on the look, as far as ride quality as others have mentioned thats totally subjective, once it's all installed give it a couple of days for the springs to settle in to reduce the bounce. good luck enjoy
Old Apr 15, 2004 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXRB8
Hi Chris, check out my webpage it may help you, I have Eibach's (only on stock SE struts, so softer ride) and 17" wheels so it will give you an idea on the look, as far as ride quality as others have mentioned thats totally subjective, once it's all installed give it a couple of days for the springs to settle in to reduce the bounce. good luck enjoy
The bounce never will go away. Bounce is caused by using shocks that don't dampen enough. In addition, Eibachs are pre-settled from the factory, it says so right on their website.

Please don't spread wrong information.
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 06:46 PM
  #28  
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I have the exact setup. It feels great...not harsh at all even when driving in New York City .. The Gr2 will handle these springs rather well since the drop is about 1.7 inches. GO FOR IT!!
Old Apr 16, 2004 | 09:21 PM
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I see a lot of people recommend the Eibach GR-2 setup even though maxmods doesn't but has anyone had the setup for a long time? I'm planning on going with that setup but wanted to make sure it wasn't just fine at the beginning and will start causing problems lets say 20k miles later.
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