I want to know everyone's times in the 1/4 mile and 0-60.

 

i'm a fifth gen tho. this is bone stock before i got anything. car stripped to the point of nothing. passenger side seat removed. ac controller, radio, speakers, door panels, spare tire, rear seats, cetner console, glove box,rear trunk trim. this was at sears race way
first run when i twas still hot n sunny then it gets cooler as the sun sets.. then cold it was my first and last time dragging so reaction time got better

1st 15.806@88.932
2nd 15.778@88.371
3rd 15.566@88.554
4th 15.523@89.059
5th 15.333@90.199 BEST.

 

The next time you go drag racing try this little trick, I use to use on my mustang it really works and saved me 2-3 tenths and 2-3 mph faster 1/4 mi. I havent tried it yet on my MAX but Im going this week and I will. The first thing to do is keep the engine as cool as possible before the run and the trick is place bags of ice on the intake to get it as cold as possible before the run, it REALLY works. Let the car sit as long as possible between runs and even skip a few to get it really cool

 

didn't think of going to using ice. but i looked like a clown when i was draggin'. i popped my hood oncei got back in line. pushed it with the motor off all the way until it's my turn.. hahaah i'm real short and extremely thin, so i look like an ant pushing a house.

 

My runs are in 80 degree weather and 75% humidity. No cool downs or icing. Next friday I am sure I'll be deep into the 14s. I've got some VHT track bite for my tires, spring blockers for the rears, ice the intake, and the weather will be cooler. As you can see by my 60 foot, I've got no traction in 1st.

Dave

 

In 70 degree weather with about 55% humidity, tugging a 130 lb 2 15" 4.0 cubic foot woofer box. I run my tires at 35-33 PSI, I have 225 50 16s in the front, and 215 55 16s in the rear (damn OE toyo tires.. ran out of $ to buy all 4 tires and I did a huge burnout which did in my old front ones). Car is a 97 SE 5 speed. Modifications speed wise is just a cone filter that I rigged to fit in. I also got clear bumpers, shaved rear emblums, 20% tint windows, stereo.

 

a 95 GXE auto, bone stock was a 15.7 @ 84.5.
With a JWT popcharger, I ran a 15.5 @ 86.
Lots of practice (about 20 runs) and cooling the motor off got me a 15.4 @ 88.
I then added a Stillen Y-pipe and was running 15.3's @ 89-90 mph.
Removed the MAF screen (believe it or not it worked for me) and I was running a 15.22 @ 90.45.
More practice had me running consistent 15.1's @ 90.4-90.5 mph with a best ever 2.18 60 ft. time.

I blew my tranny, had it rebuilt with a higher- stall convertor (2000 rpm) and shift kit. Added a JWT ECU and could go no quicker, traction was a problem.
My best with that setup was a 15.1 @ 94.96 mph, with a horrendous 2.5 60 ft time.

 

JIm thats a pretty good time, tonight I ran my 96se auto and it ran 15.7 at 87mph all I have is the jwt intake. How did you launch? My 60ft times were 2.4 I tried everything and it always ran about the same. I let it cool about 45min with ice on the intake and it ran the same. any other info would help

 

Occasionally, I run at the Memphis Motor Sports Park on test & tune nights in my '95 Maxima SE 5-spd. My best time to date is 14.89 seconds at 93 MPH. I think my 60' time was somewhere in the 2.1 to 2.2 range on that run. My reaction time is getting to be fairly consistent at .53 to .56. I think .50 is perfect, right?

I've got a ton of mods on the car, but my most significant (speed-related) are: Greddy catback system, Stillen POP Charger, Unorthodox Racing under-drive pulley, Centerforce Clutch and BFG Drag Radials. (A 70 BHP NOS kit is next.)

I pull out my spare tire and jack. I swap my daily driving front tires to my BFG Drag Radials on the stock 15" rims. I pull out my A/C fuse and run the A/C on HOT to pull heat out of the radiator. (The fans will run.) I ice down the intake manifold. I spray ice water out of a spray bottle on the radiator. I let the engine cool as much as possible between runs. At staging, I do not run through the water;I drive around it. In the start box, I try to put my tires on the marks left by the previous car. At launch, I try to avoid dropping the clutch and squealing my tires. You need to get a good sq-q-queeze going there. After I'm up to WOT, I drive the car like I hate it. Lift-throttle shifts- as fast as I can. I haven't missed a shift... yet. Don't stop racing until you are well past the finish line. Have fun beating stock Stangs and Camaros...

 

I ran it once when it was stock with about 5000 miles on it= 15.7@86.35mph and then a month later with 6134 miles my 98 GXE automatic ran 15.5@89.1mph with just a drop in k&n filter. And yes with stock steel wheels and tires minus wheel covers.

 

With 17"s and not shifting at redline (doh!)


Here are the numbers.
R/T-0.570
60'-2.270
1/8-9.677
mph-74.71
1000-12.539
1/4-14.957
mph-93.12

 

After about 30 runs down the strip, I found this to be the best technique for me.
1. Let the car cool between runs, I found that my car was far more inconsistent due to temperature than a fellow maniac racer (who shall remain nameless) who had the same mods, but in a 5 spd car. His runs hot vs. cold would only vary .1-.2. Mine would vary .3-.4. Let the car cool to the point that the temp gauge is on "C" when you restart it.
45-50 min. with the hood open should do it.

2. Check your throttle cable. This has been the source of many an arguement on the BBS in the past. But check it anyway. I had been running 15.6's. I returned to the track and could only run 16.0's. Ihad no idea what happened. Under the guidance of Jeff K., we checked my throttle cable. It had a bit of slack in it. Adjusted it so that the slack was gone and viola`, I was running 15.4's.

3. Launch. I got my best 60' times and highest traps by launching just above idle. I would brake torque to 1100rpm, then stand on the throttle on the last yellow. I was consistently in the 2.2's, with an all time best of 2.18 (on my 15.1 @ 94.95 mph run) Launching at higher rpms would either result in too much wheelspin, or wheelhop. I ran my best times with my aftermarket wheels on (lightweight American Racing Pinzetti's with 225/50/16 rubber)

3. Shiftingh. On a stock car (without ECU or Y-pipe) and an automatic, you should be manually shifting at 5500 on the tach. Reason: with the stock tranny, if you move the shifter at 5500, by the time the shift is complete, you will be at 6000 on the tach. Without a Y-pipe or ECU, your motor is really finished by the time it reaches 5500 on the tach anyway. A 6000rpm upshift willput you right at 4000 rpm, right at the torque peak.

4. Mods. If you add a Y-pipe (which I feel is absolutely necessary) you will be able to run a little higher into the rpm ranges. A Y will let you shift at 6000 (meaning a 6500rpm shift point) with no loss of power. You will also have an increase in torque, that willmake it harder to launch without roasting the skins. (in my case, Ihad to lower the launch rpm's to 1000)

Good Luck

 

Just adding another quick compare while the server's up.
0-60mph 6.43sec, 55deg temp. 1/4 in my sig.
Cold Chicago does help!

Snow coming this weekend

 

There is no way in the world a max not supercharged would do 98Mph in 1/4 mi 14.99 yes but not at 98mph

 

2.31 60 ft

http://www.his.com/~wc/maxima/154timeslip.jpg

Shifted manually at redline... running into rev limiter. Running with 1/4 tank of gas and with a few items in my trunk. At the time I was running with a JWT Popcharger.

I have 4 more 15.5's to back it up too.

With G Tech Pro I get a 7.1 0-60.

 

Didn't say it was an "official" 1/4. Blame by Gtech for the mph if wrong. Just haven't gotten the chance to run at RT66 or Byron out here yet.