Hello All.
Well the other day I started the max, and BAM... studdering and missfiring bad.. very very bad.

Got under the hood and disconnected each COIL (car running). 5 of the coils made it misfire even harder. But when i disconnected that last coil (no.6) nothing changed, no difference in louping or misfiring.

So ive Narrowed it down to. I have a Bad coil/something with cyclinder no.6
(no.6 I'm Referring to is on the Passenger side, Back part on/Between the Manifold.

So i went out and Bought a NEW COIL. 85$bones.
Also i went out and got those NGK v power copper BKR5E-11.

Installed it all. Reset ECU.
Still only 5 cyclinders working.. that New coil i just replace is still not working for crap... WHAT TO DO?????

I tested 11.9 V at this coil's connector as well. That worked fine, no probs.

I still get a 02 01 from the ECU, (Ignition Signal Primary Circuit Fault) ANY ideas on what the Heck is goin on??

Please if anyone can help and point me in the right direction ill be more than happy to compensate for their time. ~paypal...
Thanks guys. mwest.

 

I have a similar problem and dont know how to test the coil packs. Can you tell me where they are and how did you test it?

While doing research on this topic, the known problems with misfiring can be attributed to bad fuel injectors, spark plugs, and coil packs. I heard something about the camshaft position sensor but dont know if its the culprit.

 

u can test the coil packs, look in ur haynes manual for the step by step, its tricky with a ohms meter.

I didnt test mine. by TRIAL AND ERROR when the car is running and you disconnect each coil and find out which is not firing <-thats the old skool technique but still works good to this day.

the camshaft position sensor and those others such as

camshaft position sensor
crankshaft position sensor (POS) or (REF)

See both of those make the PCV work properly. or thats what the haynes says..
But How/Why can i get no spark to that last cylinder.??

 

I have a 3rd gen, but had a very similar problem a few weeks ago- same symptoms except it was my #4 cyl. The fuel injector was dead- was getting plenty of spark but nothing to fire off..hopefully that's all it is on yours.

 

Take a multimeter to your injector and check your injector connector you should read about 11v's on the injector maybe you might read 0 or 22 but it should be arround 11.5 or so anything else means its dead.

 

ok thanks for all those replys guys.
It would be a pain to remove the intake manifold to get to just the injector. so what i did was put a screw driver to the injector and heard it tick tick tick tick.
>so it seeems the power is gettin to that injector too.
> i did test that coil like i said and got 11.9 v at that

Can u test the injector in any way or clean em quickly. id hate to spend 100 a piece on them ya know.
thanks man.

 

make sure that you compare the ticking sounds to cylinder that are working. the sound wave can travel down the fuel rail. If it's not working, the ticking will be quieter on the dead cylinder.

Also check the electrical resistance across the coil in the injector. if it is an "open" the injectr is dead and your out $$$.

Also, if you have $$$, do all six at the same time. the back bank of injectors is a pain!!!!