Problems after Reassembling Intake Manifold
#1
Problems after Reassembling Intake Manifold
Ok, well I had a misfire in cyl 1, and it was a bad fuel injector. I had to remove the Intake Manifold to get to it. For all that know what is included with removing the intake manifold (quite a bit of shlt), I have a problem.
For starters, I had a helluva time getting the gasket to stay in place after tightening down the front of the manifold. And the bolts in the rear nearly cut my arm off getting too, but I persisted.
My car should've been good to go. I (think that I) connected everything and put everything back together. When I started my car, it started right up.. but it was running rough, with idle around 1k rpms, and there was a small air leak that I absolutely could not detect where it was coming from. I checked all hoses, etc..
Any ideas as to what it could be? I need help
For starters, I had a helluva time getting the gasket to stay in place after tightening down the front of the manifold. And the bolts in the rear nearly cut my arm off getting too, but I persisted.
My car should've been good to go. I (think that I) connected everything and put everything back together. When I started my car, it started right up.. but it was running rough, with idle around 1k rpms, and there was a small air leak that I absolutely could not detect where it was coming from. I checked all hoses, etc..
Any ideas as to what it could be? I need help
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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where is the leak coming from...Any Idea ???
How do you know there is an Air leak ??
You can check all the gaskets between things...For starters check the IACV Gasket,,,that fell on me and the car idled weird..also check that the gasket between the throttle body and the Manifold is in good shape
-matt
How do you know there is an Air leak ??
You can check all the gaskets between things...For starters check the IACV Gasket,,,that fell on me and the car idled weird..also check that the gasket between the throttle body and the Manifold is in good shape
-matt
#7
Originally Posted by Chunger
Recheck that upper/lower intake gasket... I hear it's hard to align and to properly torque down... It can get "squeezed" out, IIRC.
#8
Originally Posted by Chunger
Recheck that upper/lower intake gasket... I hear it's hard to align and to properly torque down... It can get "squeezed" out, IIRC.
Make sure the gasket is aligned in front but also look at the back as much as possible. Very easy for it to leak if even just a little of the gasket shifts.
#9
I purchased a new gasket, and I put perma-tech gasket sealer on it. The gasket was a pain.. I actually had to use 2. The first time I just tightened it and it totally squeezed out. The second time I checked my Chiltons manual and it said 12lbs of torque, so thats all I put.. it still did squeeze out a little, but there is no air leak coming from right there.
It sounds to be coming from the back right corner of the Intake Manifold.. somewhere behidn the throttle body. If the bolts (4) in the back aren't tight enough, could that cause it? I tightened them as tight as I could considering how hard they were for me to reach.
It sounds to be coming from the back right corner of the Intake Manifold.. somewhere behidn the throttle body. If the bolts (4) in the back aren't tight enough, could that cause it? I tightened them as tight as I could considering how hard they were for me to reach.
#10
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Posts: n/a
I just did this (removed upper intake manifold) last week and learned a couple of things. The EGR manifold that bolts to the rear of the upper intake manifold (below and behind the throttle body) has a lead faced gasket. This gasket fell on the garage florr during reassembly and I didn't find it until I completed re-assembly. Needless to say I had to do it all again. This might be the culprit. Or if you've attemted any idle speed adjustments with the idle speed adjustment screw on top of the IAC valve this can do a couple of things. It can make the IAC stepper motor work overtime and it will actually sound like valve train noise (clack) only at a much lower frequency. If you adjust that screw too far out it will defintely sound like an air leak. In my case my idle speed actually seems a little low (~500 rpm with tranmission in drive) though.
#12
Originally Posted by maxspeed96CT
sorry to ***** your thread but how many new gasgets will i nedd, im gona be changin my manifold soon and now im worried.
ANy one got any other tips on this job?
ANy one got any other tips on this job?
#13
I didnt even need the TB Gasket or the EGR Gasket. I removed the upper intake with the TB attached. The real PITA about taking of the plenum was the bolts on the back. With a little patience you can get a 12mm socket with a 3/8 drive on the back 2 support bolts. Just feel around the back of the plenum about finger length down. You will find them. The EGR Valve bolts will come off with a 12mm socket with a 1/4 drive. You just need a smaller ratchet in that area. Make sure you remove the air intake when you get to the EGR bolts cause you need the extra elbow room. Then there is a hose on the EGR valve that connects to the back of plenum. That one just takes patience. I have done this a few times now and can get the plenum off in about 30 minutes or less.
#14
Well, today I was able to make sure that all bolts are properly attached. Also, I see no loose hoses, or any hoses that aren't attached at 2 places. The noise seems to be coming from behind the intake manifold and throttle body area, right hand corner.
#15
Originally Posted by wantland
I just did this (removed upper intake manifold) last week and learned a couple of things. The EGR manifold that bolts to the rear of the upper intake manifold (below and behind the throttle body) has a lead faced gasket. This gasket fell on the garage florr during reassembly and I didn't find it until I completed re-assembly. Needless to say I had to do it all again. This might be the culprit. Or if you've attemted any idle speed adjustments with the idle speed adjustment screw on top of the IAC valve this can do a couple of things. It can make the IAC stepper motor work overtime and it will actually sound like valve train noise (clack) only at a much lower frequency. If you adjust that screw too far out it will defintely sound like an air leak. In my case my idle speed actually seems a little low (~500 rpm with tranmission in drive) though.
#19
is it dark silver in color? If so, it is the gasket that goes on the egr and you need to replace that otherwise, the leek wont go away. Btw a way to test where the leak is coming from is to take wd40 and while the car is running, spray it at the direction you think the leak is coming form. mThere should be a rise in rpm is not try other locations until you hone in to the spot.
#21
Originally Posted by gabex
Yeah, I def. think its the EGR gasket. Where does it even go? I don't see a place for it.
It's the 2 closest to the TB.
#22
Ah ok. I think I have my problem solved now then. Originally the air leak was coming from the EGR valve cause I mustve lost the gasket. So if I replace that gasket, I should be good to go. Thanks for all the help.
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