Is installing rear-rotors hard?
05-28-2004, 09:51 AM
#1
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Posts: 56
Is installing rear-rotors hard?
Before I take my wheels off, I was just wondering what I am in store for. The auto parts guy said installing rear rotors was easy, that you just detach the calipers and the rotors drop right off? I'd appreciate if somebody could share their experience with replacing rotors. My brake pads are fine, but STS said I need new rotors, that they're thin and that's what's causing the AWFUL vibrating/screeching sounds when I hit the brakes in reverese. Thanks in advance for your help.
05-28-2004, 09:56 AM
#2
Here you go man.
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.
Hope this helps.
Dubbya
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.
Hope this helps.
Dubbya
05-31-2004, 04:45 AM
#4
Dubbya's post basically covers the entire procedure, but I want to clear some things up. 1st you don't have to remove the parking brake cable from the caliper, 2nd when you take the caliper off DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose, hang it up on the spring with some wire or string. another trick is instead of using the brake caliper tool to turn the piston back, just use some needle nose pliers in the notches in the piston and turn clockwise.
05-31-2004, 06:54 AM
#5
Also, if those are your original rotors, they may be stuck from rust buildup.
Just put a lug nut or two back on loosely and then give the old rotor a few good wacks with a hammer from the back. The lugs will keep the rotor from flyin away.
Just put a lug nut or two back on loosely and then give the old rotor a few good wacks with a hammer from the back. The lugs will keep the rotor from flyin away.
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