DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

I asked in the audio forums but that place is dead, I doubt they know any way. Will 4ga wire be enough for a battery cable or do I need 2 or 0 ga? I'm putting the battery in the trunk so will I need equal amount of cable for both ground and (+) or no? Can I just connect the ground cable that will be left over in the engine bay to an existing ground point and then connect the BATTERY (-) post to a metal point in the trunk or do I have to run a ground cable from the front to the back? Is it a must to put a fuse in line with the power cable coming from the engine bay before it reaches the battery? Thanks to anyone who helps or tries.

BOSS

sorry I have no clue, but just wanted to ask, why r u relocating it?

belosic

No need to run equal length cable, for the negative cable, ground to the body/frame (look at the existing ground point to get an idea).

belosic

DemonSpawn

Weight distribution is the biggest reason.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Not really the weight. Even so wouldn't I want to keep the most weight up-front where the drive wheels are? I'm trying out some intake ideas and I need room for the piping and filter so I need to move the battery.

I still need to know if 4 gauge wire is enough and do I need to put in an inline fuse?

nitromax

you want the largest gauge, so it will carry current with the least resistance over the distance. and no inline fuse, you don't want a fuse to blow if your starter gives a lot of resistance, there isn't one inline now between the battery and the starter. the secondary wires go to the fusebox under the hood, they're sizes may need to be stepped up one gauge (12 to 10, 10 to 8) 'cause they gotta make that long run also.

maxima98vspec

i relocated my battery......i ran 2 6 gauge wires for the power and left the ground in the engine bay as is. then i took a distribution block and i ran the 2 small wires from the fuse box to it and i also ran a wire from the starter, and then i had the 2 wires comming from the battery. and i just grounded it out in the back so i didn't run the negative. i also used the stock battery tray and it just droped in, i bolted on bolt to the bumper beam and on to the side so it wouldn't move around. i don't have pics yet but im waiting for my friend to lend me his digital camera and then il post up.

also the distribution block was mounted in the engine bay right against the strut tower

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Why do I need the wires running to the fuse box or the starter? Is it because the cables are now that much longer and those will make the current stronger?

maxima98vspec

well the wires from the fuse box and the starter are going to have to go to some sort of power sence they are conected directly to the + on the battery, i just didn't want to run new wires from the fuse box so i put the distrubitor in reach of the the wires comming from the fuse box.
and im talking about the fuse box that is located on the right side of the engine bay....the one by the battery.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

I know what fuse box you're talking about. Would I still need all those starter and fuse wires if I just took the existing (+) cable, connected the new 4ga cable to it, and connected it to the battery? It doesn't make sense to me to connect the fuse box wires and the starter if all I'm doing is making the existing cables longer. Is it just for safety or something? I have about 20ft of 4GA laying around so that's why I'm asking if it's OK to use.

DemonSpawn

[QUOTE=Big D]Not really the weight. Even so wouldn't I want to keep the most weight up-front where the drive wheels are? [QUOTE]

Nope ... really, in a perfect world you'd want a 50/50 weight distribution for a neutral balanced car. But, then again, I don't drag race ... so what do I know