I've got it all hooked up to my prior Harlan connections, but I'm still not getting anything. I thought 3400rpms was the point for a 5400rpm switch over?


Dave

 

Your not using the coil pack for the rpm signal are you? The grey wire should be left unused also. I use 3400 if I remeber correctly, but others have used much different settings for 5200-5400 activation. Don't really understand how that is possible but I know that 3400 works for me (at least that is what I think it is, been a while since I looked at it)

 

Well I've tried the coil wire to the ECU and the coil pack and I get nothing. It doesn't matter what I set the switch to. I have set at 2000rpms and nothing. It's getting power too because the light is on. I am not thrilled about revving my car in neutral trying to find the switchover. Oh well. Looks like I'll go back to the Harlan. At least I can get that one to work.


Dave

 

Fuc that Dave, use the Summit!

You have to use the ECU wire. You can't use the coil pack, it won't work. Are you sure your tapping into the correct ECU wire? Have you tried all sorts of different settings on the summit? I know one guy was using a 5200 setting for a 5200 activation......

 

I know if you use the gray wire you conect it to the positive side of your battery if you use the yellow you connect the wire to the negitive side of the battery

 

oh yeah BTW 96sleeper dinoed his car with it at 3400 and it looses 2 hps at crossover but was smooth at 4400 which opens up at around 5300 I think is what he said

 

The grey wire is not used at all. It is for "deactivation", which is not needed.

 

BTW...again sorry keep forgeting the rpm signal wire is a white wire with a green tracer incase you didnt know

 

what I am saying is if you use the yellow wire to go to your map/baro switch then you connect the red wire to negitive side of the battery but if you use the gray wire to go to your map/baro switch then then the red wire goes to the positve side of the battery, personal preferance that is the way mine and 96sleepers is wired up and it works fine

 

I'm tapped into the white/green tach wire off the ecu and nothing. 2000rpms, 3400rpms, etc. Nothing.

Did you have to play with the adjusting scew they have on the unit?

 

My car must be screwy because I don't have a white wire with a green tracer. I only have a green wire with a white tracer. My ecu wires don't match the Clintons scematics either. I have a Fed 96. btw.


Dave

 

When in doubt go behind the gauge cluster, and tap into the tach.

 

Some do , some dont. That screw can make big differences. Turn the rpm down with that and see what you get. I know you said you don't like the idea of revving it in neutral... so maybe take it out for a test drive and see when the light is coming on. It's something you will just have to play with a bit - but once you overcome that, has anyone reported a summit switch? I'm very happy I found that thing, after all the horror stories from people's harlan's flaking.

 

Problem solved. While my wiring harness makes absolutely no sense in comparison to the Chilton's diagram, I was able to find a white wire with a green tracer buried in the harness. The green tracer was at at angle where I really couldn't see it. Once that I tapped into that, the switch worked. On my car the 5200rpm switchover occurs at 6200rpms as programmed into the switch. 3400rpms resulted in a 4200rpm switchover. I'm sure that playing with the screw might change things.

My Harlan rpm switch was tapped directly off coil #1 and my Harlan shift light (which never flaked out once in 3 years) was tapped off the coil #1 at the ECU (red/yellow wire). That's what made things so confusing. I didn't know that you had to use the tach wire for this unit.

Thanks guys. All of you were a big help.

 

Cool, now no more manual activation.

 

You can fine tune with that screw. Before I messed with it the MEVI was activating right at 5500 and I've got it down to 5300 now. Nice work though..

 

Now I'm starting to wonder if my Harlan was causing the butterflys to close a few hundred rpms after they were opened. I know that some peple have seen this and I think 96Sleeper even saw it during a dyno run. My car feels stronger above 6200rpms in 2nd and 3rd and induction sound is a bit more refined. Even though it's 85 with lots of humidity, the car feels very strong above 6000rpms. It sure is nice knowing that the switchover is damn consistent. 5200rpms everytime I'll take her to the track soon and see how she does in the summer heat. She did 14.50@97mph last summer.

 

yes, it happened to me. Look at the red lines when I was auto. I could not even tell that it was happening either. Summit switch cured that right up.

 

Wow...maybe it's time for me to get off my lazy butt and put in that Summit switch.