Am I burning oil???
Am I burning oil???
Question for the gear heads in here...........
For the past 4 months, I've noticed that my oil level goes down to the very last mark on the dipstick. This usually happens at the end of the 3,000 mile oil change interval. So from the time I get my oil change until the next oil change, the oil level is down at the last mark on the dipstick. Right before this started happening, I had both head cover gaskets replaced. I checked around for leaks and I couldn't find any. I do see a very minimal presence of oil under the engine very close to the firewall but I figured its probably just from before I got the gaskets replaced. I might steam clean the entire engine area and keep an eye on it to see if I do have any oil leaks.
Any suggestions on how to tell or what to do? I'm going to do a search in here about synthetic, maybe it's not a bad idea to start using synthetic oil too.
Thanks.
For the past 4 months, I've noticed that my oil level goes down to the very last mark on the dipstick. This usually happens at the end of the 3,000 mile oil change interval. So from the time I get my oil change until the next oil change, the oil level is down at the last mark on the dipstick. Right before this started happening, I had both head cover gaskets replaced. I checked around for leaks and I couldn't find any. I do see a very minimal presence of oil under the engine very close to the firewall but I figured its probably just from before I got the gaskets replaced. I might steam clean the entire engine area and keep an eye on it to see if I do have any oil leaks.
Any suggestions on how to tell or what to do? I'm going to do a search in here about synthetic, maybe it's not a bad idea to start using synthetic oil too.
Thanks.
How many miles on your engine ?? What Weight Oil are you using ??
Do you do the oil changes yourself or you have a place do it ??
Switching to synthetic may be a very good idea in the fact that is doesnt break down as much or as fast a convential oil. If your actaully burning Oil now it may not be a good idea due to that fact you may burn more once switching
That full set of hatch marks represents a QT of Oil..if you were leaking out a QT threw your vavle covers over 3K miles you would definetly notice it, there would be a significant amount around
-matt
Do you do the oil changes yourself or you have a place do it ??
Switching to synthetic may be a very good idea in the fact that is doesnt break down as much or as fast a convential oil. If your actaully burning Oil now it may not be a good idea due to that fact you may burn more once switching
That full set of hatch marks represents a QT of Oil..if you were leaking out a QT threw your vavle covers over 3K miles you would definetly notice it, there would be a significant amount around
-matt
Thanks Matt,
My engine has 125k miles now. I take it to Jiffy Lube and they put the Pennzoil brand on it. I regularly get the oil changed at 3k miles or 3 months. I know that a burning smell would be evident if my engine is actually burning or leaking oil as the oil usually get on an exhaust pipe plus heat would generate that burning smell. Perhaps conventional oil is just breaking down too fast. I had a Maxima before this, same year, with almost 200k miles and it never burned nor leaked oil.
We'll see.
**edit**
The weight is 10w30. It never goes below zero degress in So-Cal so I don't think I need to go 5w30. Also reading the FAQ, it could possibly be that the Oil Pressure Sender unit is leaking since that is a pretty common thing on 4th gens. I'll check that this afternoon.
My engine has 125k miles now. I take it to Jiffy Lube and they put the Pennzoil brand on it. I regularly get the oil changed at 3k miles or 3 months. I know that a burning smell would be evident if my engine is actually burning or leaking oil as the oil usually get on an exhaust pipe plus heat would generate that burning smell. Perhaps conventional oil is just breaking down too fast. I had a Maxima before this, same year, with almost 200k miles and it never burned nor leaked oil.
We'll see.
**edit**
The weight is 10w30. It never goes below zero degress in So-Cal so I don't think I need to go 5w30. Also reading the FAQ, it could possibly be that the Oil Pressure Sender unit is leaking since that is a pretty common thing on 4th gens. I'll check that this afternoon.
Originally Posted by matty
How many miles on your engine ?? What Weight Oil are you using ??
Do you do the oil changes yourself or you have a place do it ??
Switching to synthetic may be a very good idea in the fact that is doesnt break down as much or as fast a convential oil. If your actaully burning Oil now it may not be a good idea due to that fact you may burn more once switching
That full set of hatch marks represents a QT of Oil..if you were leaking out a QT threw your vavle covers over 3K miles you would definetly notice it, there would be a significant amount around
-matt
Do you do the oil changes yourself or you have a place do it ??
Switching to synthetic may be a very good idea in the fact that is doesnt break down as much or as fast a convential oil. If your actaully burning Oil now it may not be a good idea due to that fact you may burn more once switching
That full set of hatch marks represents a QT of Oil..if you were leaking out a QT threw your vavle covers over 3K miles you would definetly notice it, there would be a significant amount around
-matt
Just an update for those who wanted to know............
I found out that the oil pressure switch was leaking badly. The passenger-side control arm is soaked with oil too. I replaced it last weekend, got the switch for $6 at Autozone.
I also observed that the area, where the tranny and engine joins together, is a little wet with oil. Probably the main seal or the differential carrier bearing. Its expected being that this engine has 120k+ miles. Good thing is that my good friend is a transmission specialist. More expenses for ol' Matilda!
I found out that the oil pressure switch was leaking badly. The passenger-side control arm is soaked with oil too. I replaced it last weekend, got the switch for $6 at Autozone.
I also observed that the area, where the tranny and engine joins together, is a little wet with oil. Probably the main seal or the differential carrier bearing. Its expected being that this engine has 120k+ miles. Good thing is that my good friend is a transmission specialist. More expenses for ol' Matilda!
New development,
I am due for an oil change today, so I check the dipstick before going into getting it done. Still loosing about a quart of oil. I'm upset and when I looked under the car, the oil pan is a lil wet plus the control arm and the surrounding areas near the oil pan. I looked around the oil pan and found a small leak along the gasket. It looked like the gasket has been replaced before because all I see are beads of silicon along the edge. But I thought the gasket that goes there is the thin paper type kind. Looked like someone got a tube of those RTV silicon sealant and made their own gasket.
Does the oilpan use paper gaskets or will silicon sealant do?
I am due for an oil change today, so I check the dipstick before going into getting it done. Still loosing about a quart of oil. I'm upset and when I looked under the car, the oil pan is a lil wet plus the control arm and the surrounding areas near the oil pan. I looked around the oil pan and found a small leak along the gasket. It looked like the gasket has been replaced before because all I see are beads of silicon along the edge. But I thought the gasket that goes there is the thin paper type kind. Looked like someone got a tube of those RTV silicon sealant and made their own gasket.
Does the oilpan use paper gaskets or will silicon sealant do?
Sounds like you have a rear main seal leak. I was losing about the same amount of oil as you do right now because of it. You will lose some with the OPS but it really is quite scant. A diff carrier bearing problem will cause you to use tranny fluid not motor oil.
My 99 generally burns up about a half quart between changes but that's nothing. My old Accord (01 V6) didn't burn a drop, nor does our Highlander, but both of those were bought new and broken in properly. My Max was bought used at 43k, so I can't vouch for if it was properly broken in or not, and I don't really care either. It runs great and a half quart isn't anything to worry about.
Most of the oil use is probably due to using engine braking and downshifts to 2nd gear at 4000 rpm for even more engine braking. That creates a lot of negative pressure which can suck up oil I guess.
Check under your car after a run and check/watch for leaks. Otherwise it's probably just getting burned up in the engine.
Most of the oil use is probably due to using engine braking and downshifts to 2nd gear at 4000 rpm for even more engine braking. That creates a lot of negative pressure which can suck up oil I guess.
Check under your car after a run and check/watch for leaks. Otherwise it's probably just getting burned up in the engine.
Thanks for the input but like I said, I have visible signs of oil leak around the oil pan area and its visible as I can see from the gasket area that the oil is coming from there. Its minimal but I'm sure that it increases as the engine is driven and that is evident by the wet areas that I've seen. Mishmosh, is right about the rear main seal, I did see some sweat coming off of that area as well but I will address that a little later as my concern is the oil pan gasket which seems like the more major cause of the oil leak.
For those who have changed the oil pan gasket on their Maximas before, do I need to get a gasket or can I get away with the RTV silicone sealant?
For those who have changed the oil pan gasket on their Maximas before, do I need to get a gasket or can I get away with the RTV silicone sealant?
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PM it to me ....my whole tie rod + control arm on the passenger side is soaked in oil
