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'ECU fault code diagnosis' Not working !! Anyone else?

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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
maxima_kid's Avatar
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'ECU fault code diagnosis' Not working !! Anyone else?

Is anyone else able to use the ecu decoder here? because I cant seem to.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html
I customized a Cattman Y pipe and I got a bunch of codes out of it but Im not that surprised. If the site continues not to work, can anyone else help me diagnose?

0701 - possible misfiring cylinders

0901 and
0902 - o2 sensors reading messages out of normal range

1001 and
1002 - from what I can find, its probably the same as 9001's

1406 - this one is a strange case because this number does not exist. I counted it 3 times and thats what I got but I figured it probably meant 1305 for the fuel pump which is understandable because its an upgrade.

Anyway, can anyone enlighten me on these numbers?
Thanks George
Old Sep 19, 2004 | 09:01 PM
  #2  
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0701 multiple cylinder misfire
0901 upstream o2 heater fault right bank
0902downstream o2 heater or circuit fault
1001 ???
1002 downstream o2 heater or circuit fault
1406 ??? the only 13s are 1302-map; 1305 fuel pump control module or circuit; and1308 cooling fan
Old Sep 20, 2004 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 99se5spd
0701 multiple cylinder misfire
0901 upstream o2 heater fault right bank
0902downstream o2 heater or circuit fault
1001 ???
1002 downstream o2 heater or circuit fault
1406 ??? the only 13s are 1302-map; 1305 fuel pump control module or circuit; and1308 cooling fan
You just repeated what I wrote ??
Old Sep 20, 2004 | 06:53 AM
  #4  
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From: Lake Orion, MI
0701
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0701
0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.

0901
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0901 points to a problem with the Front Heated Oxygen Sensor, Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.

The Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are installed in the Y-pipe, the part of the exhaust system which conveys exhaust gases from the exhaust manifolds to the Catalytic Converter. There is an Oxygen Sensor in each branch of the Y-pipe. These sensors produce a signal which varies with the concentration of oxygen in the exhaust gas, as compared to the outside air. This signal is sent to the Engine Control Module which uses it to control the fuel injection system.

DTC 0901 is detected when the current drawn by the heating element in the Oxygen Sensor is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor (right bank).


The heated Oxygen Sensors have two components: a heating element and a sensing element. The heating element may be tested with an ordinary ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.

Follow the wires away from the Oxygen Sensor until you find the nearest electrical connector. Disconnect the connector. Viewed with the connector latch at the 12 o'clock position, there are three terminals. They are numbered 1-3, right to left. Be sure to measure the terminals in the connector half which is attached to the Oxygen Sensor, not the one which leads to the Engine Control Unit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3.
The factory spec is 2.3-4.3 ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

Measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).

Measure the resistance between terminals 2 and 3.
The reading should be infinity (no connection).

If the resistance measurements are significantly different from the factory specifications the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.

If the resistance measurements meet the factory specifications the sensor may be good and the wiring is defective. You could exchange the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors and reset the Engine Control Module. Then drive normally and expect the Malfunction Indicator Lamp to turn on again. If you still get DTC 0901 the wiring is faulty. If you get DTC 1001 the sensor is bad.

0902 - Same as above only its the downsteam O2.
1001/1002 - Replace 02 sensors. Upstream and downstream.
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