stock alarm system??????
#2
Depends......
Originally posted by pawn
when i use the stock keyless remote, and lock the doors, my lights don't flash, could this be do to the blinker mod that i have done to my Max??????????please help
when i use the stock keyless remote, and lock the doors, my lights don't flash, could this be do to the blinker mod that i have done to my Max??????????please help
#3
Re: Depends......
Originally posted by dch95
on what you did. If they used to flash but stopped after the mod, more than likely yes.
on what you did. If they used to flash but stopped after the mod, more than likely yes.
#4
What is this mod you did?
Originally posted by pawn
Well see when i bought the car, the previous owner lost the remotes, then i got new remotes after i had already done the blinker mod, so i don't know!!!! just wondering if anyone else had this problem after doing this mod!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well see when i bought the car, the previous owner lost the remotes, then i got new remotes after i had already done the blinker mod, so i don't know!!!! just wondering if anyone else had this problem after doing this mod!!!!!!!!!!!!
#5
Re: What is this mod you did?
Originally posted by dch95
I,m asking because I,m wondering what it does that is different. I,ve done two mods that involve lighting. Fogs on with parking lights and lowbeams that stay on with highbeams (thanks Dan).
I,m asking because I,m wondering what it does that is different. I,ve done two mods that involve lighting. Fogs on with parking lights and lowbeams that stay on with highbeams (thanks Dan).
#8
Re: Depends......
Originally posted by dch95
on what you did. If they used to flash but stopped after the mod, more than likely yes.
on what you did. If they used to flash but stopped after the mod, more than likely yes.
#9
You can simulate the effect by pulling back on the high beam stalk but get it to the sweet spot between the actual full high beams and low beams. There is a spot where high and low beams will activate You can probably put a diode between the high and low beam, to isolate the high beam from the low beam, but at the same time let the low beam receive 12 volts from the high beams so the relay will be kept on. Of course this will get hot as hell, so you might wanna test this. Probly consume bulb life as well.
#10
Like this.......
Originally posted by Supa Lao
Whoa... How'd you do that mod w/ you head lights dch95? Your high beams gotta be hella bright now.
Whoa... How'd you do that mod w/ you head lights dch95? Your high beams gotta be hella bright now.
I think you could put a high-current diode in the headlight wiring right at the bulb socket which would allow current to flow from the high beam wire to the low beam wire, but not the reverse. This would achieve the desired function. However, I'm concerned that the wiring for the headlights is sized for the expected load: lows or highs, but not both. The described diode modification would work but lead (in the long run) to blown fuses or roasted insulation. Not good.
Another scheme would be to build an auxiliary circuit with relays, similar to the way you would install a set of high-powered horns.
1) Purchase:
- two auxiliary horn relays.
- a 30 amp fusible link like those already in that box.
- twenty feet of stranded copper wire. I'm not sure about the gauge of wire, I'd guess 14 gauge. Perhaps the audio enthusiasts can tell us more on this subject.
2) Raise the hood.
3) Mount each horn relay close to the headlight it will serve.
4) Remove the plastic cover from the narrow link-and-fuse box adjacent to the battery.
5) Choose an unused link site among the fusible links. It should have a "hot always" male spade terminal and a vacant terminal slot next to it. My Maxima has several of these.
6) Fashion a power wire with a male spade lug crimped or soldered to one end.
7) Insert that male spade terminal (from below) into the vacant slot you chose in the link-and-fuse box.
8) Run the power wire to the power terminal of both relays.
9) Carefully strip some insulation away from both low- and high-beam headlight power wires an inch or two away from the socket. Splice new wires to form "T" junctions and secure with solder or crimp fittings. Note that the high- and low-beam wires still power their respective headlight filaments.
10) Connect each newly-added high beam branch wire to the signal terminal on its relay.
11) Connect each newly-added low beam branch wire to the load terminal on its relay.
12) Plug the 30 amp fusible link into the link-and-fuse box, at the formerly-unused site. Mark the map on the plastic box cover AUX HEADLIGHTS. Snap the box cover in place.
13) Close the hood.
14) Smoke test: try the headlights, both low and high beams.
One advantage of this modification is that it is easily disabled. All you need do is remove the fusible link and the headlights will work just as they do now.
It is possible to accomplish this objective with only one auxiliary relay, but I have chosen two in order to maintain the independence of the two headlight circuits.
__________________
Daniel B. Martin
Nissan owner and D-I-Y mechanic
As you can see I saved this post by Daniel and just did a cut and paste. I used the relay method cause I beleive it is the safer of the two. Works like a champ. If you have higher wattage bulbs it will make a BIG difference. Thanks Dan if you see this!
#11
alarm with beeper
I remember someone mentioned there is a relay for remote lock flashing in the trunk, next to the power trunk release mechanism. Today I took a look at it and pulled that relay out. Looking into the relay base, there are three pairs of contacts, and the pair that has two contacts with larger spacing is the one to control the light flashing when the remote control "lock" button is pressed, as I measured this pair with a multi-meter. Normally it has zero voltage; when "lock" button is pressed, the voltage comes up. I also verified that this pair controls "lock" flashing independently. When emergency flashing is on, this contact pair does not provide 12V. That is good to me.
I tried connecting a 12V buzzer (from Radio Shack)temperarily on it with the trunk lid closed. It does not sound beautiful but to me the sound level is about OK, maybe a little high is better.
Anyway since the signal is there, I can always do something to make it sound better.
I tried connecting a 12V buzzer (from Radio Shack)temperarily on it with the trunk lid closed. It does not sound beautiful but to me the sound level is about OK, maybe a little high is better.
Anyway since the signal is there, I can always do something to make it sound better.
#12
Re: alarm with beeper
Originally posted by jiaxima96
I remember someone mentioned there is a relay for remote lock flashing in the trunk, next to the power trunk release mechanism. Today I took a look at it and pulled that relay out. Looking into the relay base, there are three pairs of contacts, and the pair that has two contacts with larger spacing is the one to control the light flashing when the remote control "lock" button is pressed, as I measured this pair with a multi-meter. Normally it has zero voltage; when "lock" button is pressed, the voltage comes up. I also verified that this pair controls "lock" flashing independently. When emergency flashing is on, this contact pair does not provide 12V. That is good to me.
I tried connecting a 12V buzzer (from Radio Shack)temperarily on it with the trunk lid closed. It does not sound beautiful but to me the sound level is about OK, maybe a little high is better.
Anyway since the signal is there, I can always do something to make it sound better.
I remember someone mentioned there is a relay for remote lock flashing in the trunk, next to the power trunk release mechanism. Today I took a look at it and pulled that relay out. Looking into the relay base, there are three pairs of contacts, and the pair that has two contacts with larger spacing is the one to control the light flashing when the remote control "lock" button is pressed, as I measured this pair with a multi-meter. Normally it has zero voltage; when "lock" button is pressed, the voltage comes up. I also verified that this pair controls "lock" flashing independently. When emergency flashing is on, this contact pair does not provide 12V. That is good to me.
I tried connecting a 12V buzzer (from Radio Shack)temperarily on it with the trunk lid closed. It does not sound beautiful but to me the sound level is about OK, maybe a little high is better.
Anyway since the signal is there, I can always do something to make it sound better.
#13
alarm with beeper
I went back and tried with flasher on, with left truning signal on, right turning signal on, even with both flasher and righ/left turning signal on, all the cominations I could think of, no buzzer going off. Since it is a temperary connection, I again turned flasher off and closed the door, and then pressed the lock button, the buzzer went off. So it was a good buzzer connection.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
alarm options
Hi,
I just bought a used maxima 97 with alarm system. Is it possible to change the options?
Right now, I have:
when unlocking:
-lights don't flash.
-first button push driver side, second push the other doors
when I hold the button it will roll down the window.
when locking:
-the lights flash
I am just wondering if I can make the lights flash when I unlock the doors, and also make the horn chirps when I lock and unlock (like the usual after market alarm systems).
I browsed the internet to look for a way to do this, but I only get manual on how to reprogram or program a new remote.
If anyone knows how to do this, please let me know. I already spent 20 bucks for nothing (I brought the car to a shop since they told me that they can change it. When they were done, the options did not change and I got charged with labor).
I just bought a used maxima 97 with alarm system. Is it possible to change the options?
Right now, I have:
when unlocking:
-lights don't flash.
-first button push driver side, second push the other doors
when I hold the button it will roll down the window.
when locking:
-the lights flash
I am just wondering if I can make the lights flash when I unlock the doors, and also make the horn chirps when I lock and unlock (like the usual after market alarm systems).
I browsed the internet to look for a way to do this, but I only get manual on how to reprogram or program a new remote.
If anyone knows how to do this, please let me know. I already spent 20 bucks for nothing (I brought the car to a shop since they told me that they can change it. When they were done, the options did not change and I got charged with labor).
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