well just finnished a diy rear brake job on the weekend, one word...
10-11-2004, 07:30 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,529
well just finnished a diy rear brake job on the weekend, one word...
EASY!
Man I could have saved so much money before if I had decided to learn this before. I have to say though, a breaker bar and wd-40 are your best friends when it comes to the tough bolts that won't budge. also thanks to Dubbya, for posting the instructions. also turinig the piston back was not to bad but always be carfeul of the boot when doint so it definatly tends to stick to the pistion screw. i only wish that I had picked up the H&R spaced kit so I could install that whil I was at it. one questo the FSM say blead in the following order right rear-left front-left rear-right front, does it matter that i only blead the two rears, since I didn't change the fronts?
Man I could have saved so much money before if I had decided to learn this before. I have to say though, a breaker bar and wd-40 are your best friends when it comes to the tough bolts that won't budge. also thanks to Dubbya, for posting the instructions. also turinig the piston back was not to bad but always be carfeul of the boot when doint so it definatly tends to stick to the pistion screw. i only wish that I had picked up the H&R spaced kit so I could install that whil I was at it. one questo the FSM say blead in the following order right rear-left front-left rear-right front, does it matter that i only blead the two rears, since I didn't change the fronts?
10-11-2004, 07:51 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Did you use the specific tool when backing off the piston or just needle nose plyers? I am starting on my rear brakes in a few hours.
10-11-2004, 08:22 AM
#4
No problem bro. I am always happy to help a fellow .orger out. I made that write up myself some time ago cause it was a popular question on some boards. If anyone wants to add it to the How To's its fine by me.
Dub
Dub
10-11-2004, 08:26 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
No problem bro. I am always happy to help a fellow .orger out. I made that write up myself some time ago cause it was a popular question on some boards. If anyone wants to add it to the How To's its fine by me.
Dub
Dub
10-11-2004, 10:04 AM
#6
i need to change my rear brakes too but i never did it before so i need instructions.... if u could post urs that would be good or send it to me at xoptonx@aol.com
10-11-2004, 11:42 AM
#7
The rear rotor is a DIY job. Go ahead and replace both of them while you are at it.
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.
Hope this helps.
Dubbya
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.
Hope this helps.
Dubbya
10-11-2004, 01:59 PM
#11
Brake jobs on our cars are a piece of cake.
Mike... you can probably get away with a pair of needle nose pliers, I have been able to each time I've changed my pads... I do have the tool though, its alot easier.
Mike... you can probably get away with a pair of needle nose pliers, I have been able to each time I've changed my pads... I do have the tool though, its alot easier.
10-11-2004, 02:44 PM
#13
10-11-2004, 03:34 PM
#14
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Ok...got a problem. I can't get my e-brake back on. But I don't think it's me, I think my e-brake is messed up. I can't get enough slack in the cable.
In order for me to get the cable back on I have to push the spring loaded connection back all the way and then I still need another 1/2" to get the cable back on the bracket. But when I do the the cable hooked back on the e-brake is then engaged and the rotor won't move.
I wasn't easy to get it off either. I had to remove the braket to get enough slack.
I think this might have something to do with it http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303
Both sides of my e-brake cable were pushed up into the frame. And my e-brake has been almost worthless for the last few months. It would have to be pulled up really hard to hold on any kind of incline.
I think it might be seized and that is why I can't get it back on. But that doesn't make sense because I would know if my e-brake was constantly on.
Oh, and yes I did have the e-brake disengaged before I did the work.
In order for me to get the cable back on I have to push the spring loaded connection back all the way and then I still need another 1/2" to get the cable back on the bracket. But when I do the the cable hooked back on the e-brake is then engaged and the rotor won't move.
I wasn't easy to get it off either. I had to remove the braket to get enough slack.
I think this might have something to do with it http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303
Both sides of my e-brake cable were pushed up into the frame. And my e-brake has been almost worthless for the last few months. It would have to be pulled up really hard to hold on any kind of incline.
I think it might be seized and that is why I can't get it back on. But that doesn't make sense because I would know if my e-brake was constantly on.
Oh, and yes I did have the e-brake disengaged before I did the work.
10-11-2004, 03:37 PM
#15
Mike... I had the same problem
Your ebrake will not be constantly on... it'll be the opposite, it wont engage.. or just the side that is good will engage. My ebrake cable wouldnt go on either.. and I had about a half inch to go... then I noticed it was crushed... the cable was crushed inside and frozen, it wouldnt move. I had to go to Nissan and buy a new cable, it was about $60.
Your ebrake will not be constantly on... it'll be the opposite, it wont engage.. or just the side that is good will engage. My ebrake cable wouldnt go on either.. and I had about a half inch to go... then I noticed it was crushed... the cable was crushed inside and frozen, it wouldnt move. I had to go to Nissan and buy a new cable, it was about $60.
10-11-2004, 03:43 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
Mike... I had the same problem
Your ebrake will not be constantly on... it'll be the opposite, it wont engage.. or just the side that is good will engage. My ebrake cable wouldnt go on either.. and I had about a half inch to go... then I noticed it was crushed... the cable was crushed inside and frozen, it wouldnt move. I had to go to Nissan and buy a new cable, it was about $60.
Your ebrake will not be constantly on... it'll be the opposite, it wont engage.. or just the side that is good will engage. My ebrake cable wouldnt go on either.. and I had about a half inch to go... then I noticed it was crushed... the cable was crushed inside and frozen, it wouldnt move. I had to go to Nissan and buy a new cable, it was about $60.
10-11-2004, 03:52 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 153
Originally Posted by Kevin
EASY!
Man I could have saved so much money before if I had decided to learn this before. I have to say though, a breaker bar and wd-40 are your best friends when it comes to the tough bolts that won't budge. also thanks to Dubbya, for posting the instructions. also turinig the piston back was not to bad but always be carfeul of the boot when doint so it definatly tends to stick to the pistion screw. i only wish that I had picked up the H&R spaced kit so I could install that whil I was at it. one questo the FSM say blead in the following order right rear-left front-left rear-right front, does it matter that i only blead the two rears, since I didn't change the fronts?
Man I could have saved so much money before if I had decided to learn this before. I have to say though, a breaker bar and wd-40 are your best friends when it comes to the tough bolts that won't budge. also thanks to Dubbya, for posting the instructions. also turinig the piston back was not to bad but always be carfeul of the boot when doint so it definatly tends to stick to the pistion screw. i only wish that I had picked up the H&R spaced kit so I could install that whil I was at it. one questo the FSM say blead in the following order right rear-left front-left rear-right front, does it matter that i only blead the two rears, since I didn't change the fronts?
Congrats!! Many of us don't have the willpower or guts to do mechanical stuff such as changing the brakes.
Hope they got installed right.
10-11-2004, 03:59 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by Ant96GLE
because now you moved it from where it was caught inside and the plastic casing around it is crushed. When you moved it, it got caught in another spot, it wont let the cable release itself back.
What about the fact that the pads I took off were non-existant so now I have about a total of 1/2" of new pad material. So would adjusting the cable to give me more slack work?
10-11-2004, 04:00 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,529
yeah had my first drivning day with them. the old ones were gone this was a much needed improvement.
@I30tMikeD did you remove the bracket that holds the Ebrake cable to the caliper? thats different then the one on the trailing arm. try that its a 14mm I beleive that will make it easy to put that thing back on and off. althoguh i jus reread it sounds like you did do that. if thats the case i think Ant might be right. I also noticed the parking brake cable was going but I took off the bracket on the caliper as well as the trailing arm and it didnt require much force on the spring to remove and put back on. i'm gonna have to get that soon.
@I30tMikeD did you remove the bracket that holds the Ebrake cable to the caliper? thats different then the one on the trailing arm. try that its a 14mm I beleive that will make it easy to put that thing back on and off. althoguh i jus reread it sounds like you did do that. if thats the case i think Ant might be right. I also noticed the parking brake cable was going but I took off the bracket on the caliper as well as the trailing arm and it didnt require much force on the spring to remove and put back on. i'm gonna have to get that soon.
10-11-2004, 04:07 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Kevin
yeah had my first drivning day with them. the old ones were gone this was a much needed improvement.
@I30tMikeD did you remove the bracket that holds the Ebrake cable to the caliper? thats different then the one on the trailing arm. try that its a 14mm I beleive that will make it easy to put that thing back on and off. althoguh i jus reread it sounds like you did do that. if thats the case i think Ant might be right. I also noticed the parking brake cable was going but I took off the bracket on the caliper as well as the trailing arm and it didnt require much force on the spring to remove and put back on. i'm gonna have to get that soon.
@I30tMikeD did you remove the bracket that holds the Ebrake cable to the caliper? thats different then the one on the trailing arm. try that its a 14mm I beleive that will make it easy to put that thing back on and off. althoguh i jus reread it sounds like you did do that. if thats the case i think Ant might be right. I also noticed the parking brake cable was going but I took off the bracket on the caliper as well as the trailing arm and it didnt require much force on the spring to remove and put back on. i'm gonna have to get that soon.
I guess my cable is messed up. My mind is just tired and it doesn't make sense at the moment
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