Maxima Problems.
Maxima Problems.
This is my cousins car, she asked if I could figure this out. I was wondering if any of you guys ever had this problem. Heres what she says it is doing.....
98 Nissan Maxima Standard Trans. 90,000 miles Makes cranking noise when starting. Problem was intermittent at first. Last few days have been really bad, the car will take a few minutes to start. It makes a cranking noise like it wants to start but never clicks on. The last few days it has clicked on but shuts off immediately after that. The car would take the longest to start on a cold start, particularly first thing in the morning. Usually the car would let out a puff of smoke, not in one big puff, but as i was trying to start it. I am assuming it was gas because it smelled like gas and my gas consumption increased due to trying to start it for five minutes everyday. Last night it never started. I had a friend pop the clutch to get it started and drove it to the shop, who had thought the answer was a crank shaft sensor problem. The mechanic called today to tell me that the new part gave no results. The car won't start at all. He said that it wasn't doing anything at all. The starter and alternator have been tested and came out ok. the check engine light IS on... but he says it's not pulling a code so he can't tell what the problem is. The fuel filter was just replaced a month ago. The spark plugs have just been changed about four months ago.
that's the deal...and you know the technical details about the engine and stuff. i don't. anyway, let me know if you find out anything. i am going to just sit here and... wait.
If you guys can help, It would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
98 Nissan Maxima Standard Trans. 90,000 miles Makes cranking noise when starting. Problem was intermittent at first. Last few days have been really bad, the car will take a few minutes to start. It makes a cranking noise like it wants to start but never clicks on. The last few days it has clicked on but shuts off immediately after that. The car would take the longest to start on a cold start, particularly first thing in the morning. Usually the car would let out a puff of smoke, not in one big puff, but as i was trying to start it. I am assuming it was gas because it smelled like gas and my gas consumption increased due to trying to start it for five minutes everyday. Last night it never started. I had a friend pop the clutch to get it started and drove it to the shop, who had thought the answer was a crank shaft sensor problem. The mechanic called today to tell me that the new part gave no results. The car won't start at all. He said that it wasn't doing anything at all. The starter and alternator have been tested and came out ok. the check engine light IS on... but he says it's not pulling a code so he can't tell what the problem is. The fuel filter was just replaced a month ago. The spark plugs have just been changed about four months ago.
that's the deal...and you know the technical details about the engine and stuff. i don't. anyway, let me know if you find out anything. i am going to just sit here and... wait.
If you guys can help, It would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris
This is the deal it could be one of two things. First it could be your coil packs which are around 300-600 bucks depending on price of parts and labor. second ask the tech who is working on the car if the motor maybe seezed up.
You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!
You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!
Check the battery terminals, and if the check engine light is on, you DO have codes, read the stickies on how to get them. Once the codes are read, should be easier to diagnose, but most likely is the terminals, is it dead, meaning no radio, nothing even when keys are in, or does it just not start?
Originally Posted by Gen4Max99
This is the deal it could be one of two things. First it could be your coil packs which are around 300-600 bucks depending on price of parts and labor. second ask the tech who is working on the car if the motor maybe seezed up.
You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!

You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!
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It could also be a faulty ignition switch, especially as you said, you can get it started with a push and a pop of the clutch. That says the engine can start and run fine. Your trouble is in the starter or ignition switch area.
Also, your check engine light is on, so there is definately an error code stored. Read the stickies and pull the codes, it's probably pointing you to the trouble area.
Also, your check engine light is on, so there is definately an error code stored. Read the stickies and pull the codes, it's probably pointing you to the trouble area.
The first thought in my head is coolant temp sensor....?? The maxima fuel injection system is really dependant on that....and it will throw a code. Its like a $30 part at any Autozone and is pretty easy to replace.
checking codes is easy....check the top few lines of the forum.
seized motor....are you high? he's talking about cold starting problems....a seized motor will never turn over...let a lone start.
checking codes is easy....check the top few lines of the forum.
seized motor....are you high? he's talking about cold starting problems....a seized motor will never turn over...let a lone start.
Ummm, simple things first.
Clean the throttle body.
Hard starting in cold weather? Check.
Dying right after starting? Check.
Takes five minutes to start it first thing in the morning? Check.
All symptoms I had the first time I had to clean my Throttle Body.
The white smoke (unburnt gas) is from flooding I would bet.
The CEL is because your engine is dying (probably getting a code from the MAF or IACV).
No matter what, I would try that first, because I bet it hasn't been done. Plus, it only costs about 3 bucks for a can of throttle body cleaner.
Clean the throttle body.
Hard starting in cold weather? Check.
Dying right after starting? Check.
Takes five minutes to start it first thing in the morning? Check.
All symptoms I had the first time I had to clean my Throttle Body.
The white smoke (unburnt gas) is from flooding I would bet.
The CEL is because your engine is dying (probably getting a code from the MAF or IACV).
No matter what, I would try that first, because I bet it hasn't been done. Plus, it only costs about 3 bucks for a can of throttle body cleaner.
Originally Posted by Gen4Max99
This is the deal it could be one of two things. First it could be your coil packs which are around 300-600 bucks depending on price of parts and labor. second ask the tech who is working on the car if the motor maybe seezed up.
You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!

You can check this by trying to turn the crank. If this is the case then your out of pocket around 3000-6000 bucks for a new or reman motor.
Best of luck with your problem!
Do the basics as others have already suggested (pull the code and see what the car is complaining about first, clean the throttle body/IACV, replace the fuel/air filters, replace the ECTS)...
check the connections on the starter, also from all that cranking and no start you are fouling the spark plugs with gas making it harder to start. thats why when it finally starts you get alot of white smoke coming out the end. cranking for long times with also burn out the starter so take it easy. like the others said it can be a million problems that cause it not to start. the crank sensors wont be a problem on less it giving out rediculous readings, it you have time and a multi meter you could have checked these sensors out yourself with the aid of a haynes manual or so. there are also other sensors that could be effecting the starting such as the cam sensor, coolant temp, tps or maf. they all have somthing to do with fuel injection. but definately get the codes from the check engine light if the guy at the shop cant pull them you should cause you can get the cel to flash the code to you/
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