dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

I'm finally installing my y-pipe tomorrow morn and need some instructions/tips/hints/advice. It's the WSP SS pipe and i have like everytool under the sun except a breaker bar. My friend is helping me and i think i can do it. Just need some advice and maybe bolt sizes. I'm worried about breaking a bolt too..

P.S. i know this has been covered but the search sucks, don't flame.

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

First things first. Go to www.maximadriver.com and look under mods. There is a section on Stillen Y-pipe installs done by Cheston. I know you have a Warpspeed, but bear with me. The instruction pretty much relate to everything you need to do. I think the bolt sizes are all 12mm, 14mm, and 10mm, but I may have missed one. The hardest part for me was getting the damn plastic clips off!!! If I ever find who designed those things.... Be extra careful with the O2 sensors, as they cost an a$$load and break very easily. Use plenty of WD40 on the bolts before hand. It's also good (you NEED to have) to have a universal for the rear mount bolts to the engine, as it looks like a maze and an extension alone won't get on there. Watch your hands when breaking torque on the bolts, just keep heaving untill they come off, may take a while. Last but not least, some people, myself included, had a problem with the isolation mount rubbing on the underbody. I fixed this myself with a couple of washers under the rubber mount on the right, and a couple under the bolthead on the left, which recentered everything. If you don't you will get a horrible vibrating sound. Good luck. Any probs email me at mtrai760@aol.com
I did the install by myself in case your worried about help, but an extra set of hands would have been useful as hell.

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

I did this install with 2 friends, and they were invaluable. I would go as far as to say that the breaker bar is a MUST. I broke a universal socket trying to get the nuts off those 14mms on the ypipe. Then I bought a 14mm deep socket for my breaker bar and everything came right off. Once you get going you should be fine, and it's great once you have your ypipe on If you need any extra instructions feel free to ask. I got stuck for 2 hours before getting those nuts off. Once you figure everything out it's easy sailing
-hype

Dan 93 SE

Wed. night 2 of my Minn. friends and I installed our y-pipe on their 96 and 97 Maxes. The pipe both fit well on the exhaust studs and at the Cat. When we tightened everything down, the 96 cars hanger that is alluded to above was pushed over to the passengers side, perhaps 1/2 inch so was not hanging properly. To easily correct the situation, we simply bent the very flimsy vertical metal piece back toward midline.I then discovered the 96 car had exhaust work previously done and the muffler was pulling everything towards the passenger side.Slightly bending the bracket eliminated the problem.The 97 install went well. I visited with our manufacturer yesterday, we checked the jig, and everything seemed as originally planned. Please notify us if there are problems.
Thanks for everyones support.

Dan WSP

Cumalot

iTrader: (8)

Wow, it's about time you got that y-pipe installed. You're going to love it.

95maximase

Dan

I have one last day to call in for a the y pipe deal. I had a couple questions for you. 1) How long does it take for the install typically when it is done on a lift with the proper tools ie. impact air and stuff 2) Can you offer some insight on all the different side effects that people are having with ypipes mainly with the o2 sensor and Ecu stuff. It seems like people are having problems with the rpms coming down or something like that. I understand about the pieces vibrating on the undercarriage and how to address that. Also on a 95 Se will the car pass smog in California. thanks

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Hey maybe this will help. The install usually takes about 2-3 hours, depending on your tools and how much help you have. I did mine in about three hours, by myself. The hardest thing to remove was those damn plastic clips on the O2 wires. As far as side effects, I've had none. I think Sprintmax had an O2 sensor problem, but that was because the muffler guy wasn't very gentle with the thing. My best advise is to just be careful and take your time. Better to have it done right the first time than have to go back for seconds. I haven't heard of anyone with RPM trouble, except for a recent post about a CAI. If you go to warpspeeds website you can contact those guys directly through there, and they are usually very quick with answers. Hope this helps, but it's just my $.02 See Dallas's post about the legality of Y-pipes in CA in the General forum. Right now it's not, but there working on it. Should have an answer soon, Hurray!!

Dan 93 SE

If you have the proper tools, like an air wrench it shoudn't take much over an hour or so. mtrai760 is correct, those 02 sensor clips are a pain in the ***. If you are taking your car to a shop, I recommend loosening them up in advance, to save time. I know some guys just unscrew the 02 sensors and let them hang, that part is ok, the more delicate issue is screwing them back in. The boys that did the install Tuesday night, twisted (very gently) on the sensor, counter clockwise, so that when the sensor was screwed back in, there was no undue twisting on the wire. These sensors have been proven to be quite delicate, so tread lightly here. Also, we recommend, unhooking the battery cables to reset your computer, while doing the install. I personally have been involved in at least 6 installs, with no warning lights. The boys had BIG smiles on there faces after just driving their cars several miles down the highway. Cars rev easier and accelerate faster. And neither of these cars were too loud. Good luck with your decesion. Please don't hesitate to call if you have a question not addressed here.

Dan WSP

dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

I had mine installed at a muffler shop today and it went on ok, but i'm having that vibration and it's annoying. can you give me more specific info on fixing it!?!?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Alright, there are a couple things you can do. First, you need to find some washers that will fit the bolts that hold the isolation mount on. These are 10mm bolts, but I don't know the specific washer size. You need to put about 3-4 washers, depending on the thickness, under the right side isolation mount, and the same under the bolt head of the left mount. This will center things up some. Now you have a choice of what to do with the mount. You see, it's the forward right part of the mount that rubs. You can either bend it, or cut it off (IT's your car, it's up to you). The only thing that forward part holds is a screw mount that holds one of two screws to a heat shield. The heat shield really isn't going anywhere with one screw, it's a very small shield. But like I said, it's your car. This is the spot I guarantee it's rubbing at, so good luck. Write back if you have anymore problems. Matt

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with the rubbing.
Thanks to mtrai760, the fix was pretty easy. Luckily my friend has a shop full of tools, so instead of just washers, we took the entire isolation braket off, he cut the part that was rubbing and welded the two half together, just to be safe.
But the washers looked like they gave enough clearence on their own.

Look at the part where the cat and ypipe connect, there is a braket with rubber hangers. The side along the passengers door, will be real close to the body. This is the problem! Stick some washers in there and it's fixed.

I have another question: after my install I got a cricket sounding noise when I accelerate. What could that be? At first I thought that the crush ring gaskets in the front were maybe moving, but I lowered the pipe and everything is fine. any ideas of what it could be?