I have foglights that won't explode now!!!
#1
I have foglights that won't explode now!!!
My driver side fog got cornholed maybe 2 months after I bought this car. On the civic before that, a really nice set of PIAA's got obliterated in about the same time frame.
When it happened to the max I was pissed, then forgot about it and just didn't use my fogs. (Threw crazy beam patterns everywhere b/c of the broken glass).
Anyway it's my birthday this halloween and I got an early present in the mail:
That big cardboard sheet behind the fog is basically kevlar for your lights.
Stongard: http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store
Now umm, how do you replace the fogs?
When it happened to the max I was pissed, then forgot about it and just didn't use my fogs. (Threw crazy beam patterns everywhere b/c of the broken glass).
Anyway it's my birthday this halloween and I got an early present in the mail:
That big cardboard sheet behind the fog is basically kevlar for your lights.
Stongard: http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store
Now umm, how do you replace the fogs?
#3
Cool.
I always thought I was above this, until "Crack!"....it happened to me one day.
I hate it!
I wish they would have just made the fogs out of plastic rather than glass like the headlights.
Cool info....thanks.
I always thought I was above this, until "Crack!"....it happened to me one day.
I hate it!
I wish they would have just made the fogs out of plastic rather than glass like the headlights.
Cool info....thanks.
#4
Theres a small plastic phillips head screw(black) holding a black panel just to the left of were your fog is cracked. Unscrew that screw and pop out that black panel. Behind there is x2 10mm bolts, get them off using a ratchet and extension. Then easily pull from right to left and outwards on the fog housing and it will just fall into your hands, then unplug the fog harness.
For re-install, plug in the fog to the harness, then make sure the metal nub on the side of the fog light(to the right when your looking at it) clips into mounting bracket(there will be a white "female" looking clip on the bracket). After that re-screw the x2 10mm bolts in to secure the fog in place and finally re-install the plastic panel with clip(black plastic phillps screw).
Ant
For re-install, plug in the fog to the harness, then make sure the metal nub on the side of the fog light(to the right when your looking at it) clips into mounting bracket(there will be a white "female" looking clip on the bracket). After that re-screw the x2 10mm bolts in to secure the fog in place and finally re-install the plastic panel with clip(black plastic phillps screw).
Ant
#8
Hi, ScarfaceTHX --
Since we have the same Halloween birthday (mine occurred 30 years before yours), I decided to treat myself to the same Stongard treatment you highlighted in your post. So HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you, me, and all of us goblins!
If you really need guidance on replacing the fog lamps, I quote below from a description I posted a few weeks ago. Hope this is of use:
QUOTE:
I just removed the foglights on my 96. The owners manual (page 7-28) shows a drawing that indicates how to remove the plastic cover panels (made to resemble the actual lenses) adjacent to each glass lens. The plastic cover conceals the bolt holding the lamp to its bracket. The owner's manual drawing shows that you need to push up the cover. Carefully pry the plastic cover up from the bottom. This compresses a plastic spring clip on the top end of the cover until you can begin prying the bottom end of the cover outward. Don't try prying outward from the top. The bottom end is held in by a rigid plastic "spur" that extends back and down over a rigid plastic "lip." Essentially you are lifting the spur up and over the lip. (Incidentally, each cover is clipped on to the body of the foglight itself, not to the painted plastic bumper cover.) This was the hardest step in the removal for me.
After unscrewing the 10 mm hex head bolt that holds the foglight body to a metal tab, pull the foglight toward you while disengaging two prongs (not visible at this point) that insert horizontally into sockets/clips on the side opposite the 10 mm bolt.
I unplugged the power lines from the fogs and took the lights inside to a table to change the bulbs. After unscrewing the round black hatch you will see an electric lead from the bulb running through a braided tube (heat protection?) and then into a white rubber tube that covers the "spade" shaped plug that you need to unplug. Reaching into the rubber tube with needle nose pliers helps. Then remove and save the braided tube for use on the new bulb. The bulb is held in place by a bronze-colored spring one end of which is hooked under the rim of the metal fixture. Needle nose pliers help unhooking the spring which then swings back and allows the bulb to come out easily. Here's where it helps to be wearing gloves so you don't accidentally touch the glass of the bulb and leave a mark that will cause it to crack when heated. If you do touch it, or as a precaution, wipe the surface of the replacement bulb with alcohol and a soft clean cloth.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the metal base of the bulb has two cutouts on opposite sides. One is semicircular and the other is rectangular. Make sure to match these cutouts to the correct bosses next to the hole where the bulb sits so the bulb is oriented correctly. Before reinstalling the foglight bodies on the car, I cleaned the corrosion from the two metal prongs on the side of each foglight body using green Scotchbrite abrasive pad and also lightly lubricated the prongs with silicone grease. This made it much easier to pop them back into their plastic sockets.
******** *
Since we have the same Halloween birthday (mine occurred 30 years before yours), I decided to treat myself to the same Stongard treatment you highlighted in your post. So HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you, me, and all of us goblins!
If you really need guidance on replacing the fog lamps, I quote below from a description I posted a few weeks ago. Hope this is of use:
QUOTE:
I just removed the foglights on my 96. The owners manual (page 7-28) shows a drawing that indicates how to remove the plastic cover panels (made to resemble the actual lenses) adjacent to each glass lens. The plastic cover conceals the bolt holding the lamp to its bracket. The owner's manual drawing shows that you need to push up the cover. Carefully pry the plastic cover up from the bottom. This compresses a plastic spring clip on the top end of the cover until you can begin prying the bottom end of the cover outward. Don't try prying outward from the top. The bottom end is held in by a rigid plastic "spur" that extends back and down over a rigid plastic "lip." Essentially you are lifting the spur up and over the lip. (Incidentally, each cover is clipped on to the body of the foglight itself, not to the painted plastic bumper cover.) This was the hardest step in the removal for me.
After unscrewing the 10 mm hex head bolt that holds the foglight body to a metal tab, pull the foglight toward you while disengaging two prongs (not visible at this point) that insert horizontally into sockets/clips on the side opposite the 10 mm bolt.
I unplugged the power lines from the fogs and took the lights inside to a table to change the bulbs. After unscrewing the round black hatch you will see an electric lead from the bulb running through a braided tube (heat protection?) and then into a white rubber tube that covers the "spade" shaped plug that you need to unplug. Reaching into the rubber tube with needle nose pliers helps. Then remove and save the braided tube for use on the new bulb. The bulb is held in place by a bronze-colored spring one end of which is hooked under the rim of the metal fixture. Needle nose pliers help unhooking the spring which then swings back and allows the bulb to come out easily. Here's where it helps to be wearing gloves so you don't accidentally touch the glass of the bulb and leave a mark that will cause it to crack when heated. If you do touch it, or as a precaution, wipe the surface of the replacement bulb with alcohol and a soft clean cloth.
Installation is the reverse. Note that the metal base of the bulb has two cutouts on opposite sides. One is semicircular and the other is rectangular. Make sure to match these cutouts to the correct bosses next to the hole where the bulb sits so the bulb is oriented correctly. Before reinstalling the foglight bodies on the car, I cleaned the corrosion from the two metal prongs on the side of each foglight body using green Scotchbrite abrasive pad and also lightly lubricated the prongs with silicone grease. This made it much easier to pop them back into their plastic sockets.
******** *
#9
I just finished putting them on, and sat down to eat lunch.
I may be wrong, but after reading your description, mine sounded a lot easier. Just that plate with the clip, (2) 10mm, and then pull the ....whatever it's called out and disconnect the cable.
The thing that slide into a hole to secure the far side of the fog was broken on one of mine, explaining why it pointed straight down. Superglue to the rescue. The bracket was messed up too but I managed to get that fog in fine.
The Stongard film is thick! It's gonna take a massive ROCK to even crack the fogs now. I had a bunch left over and put it on the fx35's fogs too. heh
Now that I finally have fogs again, I'm gonna try and hunt down some yellow bulbs for them.
Thanks Robert.
I may be wrong, but after reading your description, mine sounded a lot easier. Just that plate with the clip, (2) 10mm, and then pull the ....whatever it's called out and disconnect the cable.
The thing that slide into a hole to secure the far side of the fog was broken on one of mine, explaining why it pointed straight down. Superglue to the rescue. The bracket was messed up too but I managed to get that fog in fine.
The Stongard film is thick! It's gonna take a massive ROCK to even crack the fogs now. I had a bunch left over and put it on the fx35's fogs too. heh
Now that I finally have fogs again, I'm gonna try and hunt down some yellow bulbs for them.
Thanks Robert.
#10
You probably have seen the thread "Yellow Fog Lights - which ones are best and where can I get them" started 10/22 and with fresh posts today. Toward the end of the thread a member is offering his PIAA Ion Crystal bulbs for sale. It's not stated clearly, but I suppose he has the fog light bulbs that produce a specialized "selective yellow" light.
I installed the PIAA Ion Crystal fog lights a month ago and have been impressed with their superior illumination in the area of the road between the car and where the low-beam headlights bright spots touch the road surface, plus good illumination to the sides. If you are looking for a strong yellow or almost amber color more for decorative effect, the Ion Crystals will be too pale a yellow for you. The reason they look yellow at all is because most of the blue spectrum has been eliminated for improved performance in certain fog conditions. I live in hills near San Francisco Bay where heavy fog is a common condition, so I wanted the best possible fog performance.
The best price I found was from brandsport.com in Portland, Oregon: $52.86 a pair including free shipping.
Originally Posted by bluestealz
i have piaa ion crystals for sale... dont ask me how they look....never put em on. got em sealed up. was going to put them on but i need the bread.
The best price I found was from brandsport.com in Portland, Oregon: $52.86 a pair including free shipping.
#14
Originally Posted by ScarfaceTHX
I just finished putting them on, and sat down to eat lunch.
I may be wrong, but after reading your description, mine sounded a lot easier. Just that plate with the clip, (2) 10mm, and then pull the ....whatever it's called out and disconnect the cable.
The thing that slide into a hole to secure the far side of the fog was broken on one of mine, explaining why it pointed straight down. Superglue to the rescue. The bracket was messed up too but I managed to get that fog in fine.
The Stongard film is thick! It's gonna take a massive ROCK to even crack the fogs now. I had a bunch left over and put it on the fx35's fogs too. heh
Now that I finally have fogs again, I'm gonna try and hunt down some yellow bulbs for them.
Thanks Robert.
I may be wrong, but after reading your description, mine sounded a lot easier. Just that plate with the clip, (2) 10mm, and then pull the ....whatever it's called out and disconnect the cable.
The thing that slide into a hole to secure the far side of the fog was broken on one of mine, explaining why it pointed straight down. Superglue to the rescue. The bracket was messed up too but I managed to get that fog in fine.
The Stongard film is thick! It's gonna take a massive ROCK to even crack the fogs now. I had a bunch left over and put it on the fx35's fogs too. heh
Now that I finally have fogs again, I'm gonna try and hunt down some yellow bulbs for them.
Thanks Robert.
Ant
#15
Ant, sorry dude. Somehow I totally missed a few posts. Thank you for taking the time to help me.
Yesterday I was done with the job by noon, and headed right back out to buy a knock sensor that didn't quite get installed yet (my hands are still bleeding).
Guess I was in tunnel vision as usual.
ty - mike
Yesterday I was done with the job by noon, and headed right back out to buy a knock sensor that didn't quite get installed yet (my hands are still bleeding).
Guess I was in tunnel vision as usual.
ty - mike
#16
Originally Posted by ScarfaceTHX
Ant, sorry dude. Somehow I totally missed a few posts. Thank you for taking the time to help me.
Yesterday I was done with the job by noon, and headed right back out to buy a knock sensor that didn't quite get installed yet (my hands are still bleeding).
Guess I was in tunnel vision as usual.
ty - mike
Yesterday I was done with the job by noon, and headed right back out to buy a knock sensor that didn't quite get installed yet (my hands are still bleeding).
Guess I was in tunnel vision as usual.
ty - mike
Ant
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