Tranny Swap Write Up or Advice
10-28-2004, 05:16 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Tranny Swap Write Up or Advice
This weekend going from 96 5spd to 2k 5 spd and need some help with the removal and install. I have been to the motorvate site and found it OK, but want some opinions or things I can do to make it go faster/smoother. I know some of these guys have had the tranny's in and out 10 times so please speak up!!
Thanks guys,
Chris
Thanks guys,
Chris
10-28-2004, 07:09 PM
#2
The way I did it:
(1) jack front end. disconnect battery, remove intake system, remove starter, remove wheels, unbolt lower strut bolts, remove axle nut, turn knuckle down and back and remove end of axle. Drain tranny and remove inner axle (passenger side has 3 bolts add'l on support bracket. YOu will have to tug on the driver's side to dislodge release the C-clip from the axle end in the tranny.
(2) remove everything attached to tranny: disconnect neutral pos switch, ground wire, speed sensor, camshaft sensor, slave cylinder (tubing connected so you don't have to rebleed the line), all bolts joining tranny to motor, vent tubing, shifter linkage (leave attached to shifter)
(3) place tranny on tranny jack or have friend below to receive it. Unbolt tranny mount from body and tranny. Pull tranny out and off of input shaft. move down and out out of driver's wheel well.
Notes: you can leave in crossmember and y-pipe. Passenger side axle can remain but I recommend pulling it also. The support bracket may be fused and you might have to pry the pieces apart. Air tools--key for breaking the axle nut, otherwise you will have to loosen it first before jacking up the car. ratcheting wrenches, great for getting the smaller bolts between the tranny and crossmember--there is just enough room to remove the bolts. Keep track of where everything went--a lot of nuts and bolts. If higher mileage, fix rear main seal. When returning new tranny, line up the studs and bolt holes and wiggle back onto input shaft. Put new axle seals (Napa better than OEM) while tranny is out already. Definitely burn in the new clutch with 500 miles of babying it.
(1) jack front end. disconnect battery, remove intake system, remove starter, remove wheels, unbolt lower strut bolts, remove axle nut, turn knuckle down and back and remove end of axle. Drain tranny and remove inner axle (passenger side has 3 bolts add'l on support bracket. YOu will have to tug on the driver's side to dislodge release the C-clip from the axle end in the tranny.
(2) remove everything attached to tranny: disconnect neutral pos switch, ground wire, speed sensor, camshaft sensor, slave cylinder (tubing connected so you don't have to rebleed the line), all bolts joining tranny to motor, vent tubing, shifter linkage (leave attached to shifter)
(3) place tranny on tranny jack or have friend below to receive it. Unbolt tranny mount from body and tranny. Pull tranny out and off of input shaft. move down and out out of driver's wheel well.
Notes: you can leave in crossmember and y-pipe. Passenger side axle can remain but I recommend pulling it also. The support bracket may be fused and you might have to pry the pieces apart. Air tools--key for breaking the axle nut, otherwise you will have to loosen it first before jacking up the car. ratcheting wrenches, great for getting the smaller bolts between the tranny and crossmember--there is just enough room to remove the bolts. Keep track of where everything went--a lot of nuts and bolts. If higher mileage, fix rear main seal. When returning new tranny, line up the studs and bolt holes and wiggle back onto input shaft. Put new axle seals (Napa better than OEM) while tranny is out already. Definitely burn in the new clutch with 500 miles of babying it.
10-29-2004, 02:44 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
I recently replaced my clutch and it was a heck of an experience. Don't know your level of expertise so I'm assuming it's on the low side like me - here's a few pieces of advice.
1. Have the fsm and an aftermarket book in addition to the motorvate instructions because they leave A LOT OUT. There is also some helpful stuff by blackbirdvq and others in the 5th gen forum. Read them all in advance.
2. Take notes as you disassemble AND take pics with a digital camera.
3. Have a workspace where you can lay out the pieces and put a piece of paper labeling what it is underneath.
4. *Buy some mechanic's gloves* They are da bomb - protect your hands, keep them clean and breath. I fill plastic gloves with sweat.
5. TOOLS -
AXLE PULLER - I would go ahead and go to autozone and rent an axle puller and have it ready. Don't even bother screwing around with the procedure of knocking the axle out of the wheel hub like on the motorate site and in the books. Wasted ALOT of time with that. Just use the axle puller.
SOCKET FOR WHEEL NUT - Go ahead and rent this one too - I know Motorvate says how big the nut is.
AIR TOOLS - I hope you have them; I hope your impact wrench is at least 275ft-lbs of torque; I hope you have impact wrench sockets and extensions (you will need the extensions to get to the bolt on the passenger side of the tranny). I could not have done my job without them. I wasted A LOT of time not having a strong enough impact wrench to free the wheel nut and a tranny bolt and not having impact sockets and extensions.
WRENCHES - I agree that ratcheting wrenches will help a lot.
A PIECE OF PIPE - in order to seat the tranny seals if you don't have the tool you will need a short piece of 2" pipe. Don't try pvc - it won't work.
JACKS - at least 1 floor jack, stands, and another jack for the tranny. You'll need to at one point place a jack of some kind under the oil pan to hold the engine. You'll need a piece of soft wood to go between the jack and the oil pan.
6. SUPPLIES:
Abundance of rags.
High temp grease - for the places grease is needed.
7. If you have all of the stuff above - you have a reasonable chance of finishing in a reasonable amount of time since you'll be able to get everything apart.
8. The biggest challenge is handling the heavy tranny and positioning it to get it back on. I ended up buying a atv jack to do the job. I'm sure there is a less expensive way to do it (without help) but I just didn't feel like dealing with it. It was hard enough with the atv jack (which I returned).
9. Those axle seals are a pain in the ***. I would only replace them if you need to (since swapping I'm sure you do). If you are replacing you want to grease them up a bit before doing so. They are different for each side.
10. To get the axles out the best method is to push in/compress and then yank out. Do this a few times and they'll come out easily.
11. The hardest bolt is the one facing the passenger side wheel near toward the firewall. To get that one off I had to get impact extensions. I ended up going through the passenger side wheel well to get it off. You may not have to do that - I have headers.
I will get around to doing a detailed write up one of these days.
Good luck.
1. Have the fsm and an aftermarket book in addition to the motorvate instructions because they leave A LOT OUT. There is also some helpful stuff by blackbirdvq and others in the 5th gen forum. Read them all in advance.
2. Take notes as you disassemble AND take pics with a digital camera.
3. Have a workspace where you can lay out the pieces and put a piece of paper labeling what it is underneath.
4. *Buy some mechanic's gloves* They are da bomb - protect your hands, keep them clean and breath. I fill plastic gloves with sweat.
5. TOOLS -
AXLE PULLER - I would go ahead and go to autozone and rent an axle puller and have it ready. Don't even bother screwing around with the procedure of knocking the axle out of the wheel hub like on the motorate site and in the books. Wasted ALOT of time with that. Just use the axle puller.
SOCKET FOR WHEEL NUT - Go ahead and rent this one too - I know Motorvate says how big the nut is.
AIR TOOLS - I hope you have them; I hope your impact wrench is at least 275ft-lbs of torque; I hope you have impact wrench sockets and extensions (you will need the extensions to get to the bolt on the passenger side of the tranny). I could not have done my job without them. I wasted A LOT of time not having a strong enough impact wrench to free the wheel nut and a tranny bolt and not having impact sockets and extensions.
WRENCHES - I agree that ratcheting wrenches will help a lot.
A PIECE OF PIPE - in order to seat the tranny seals if you don't have the tool you will need a short piece of 2" pipe. Don't try pvc - it won't work.
JACKS - at least 1 floor jack, stands, and another jack for the tranny. You'll need to at one point place a jack of some kind under the oil pan to hold the engine. You'll need a piece of soft wood to go between the jack and the oil pan.
6. SUPPLIES:
Abundance of rags.
High temp grease - for the places grease is needed.
7. If you have all of the stuff above - you have a reasonable chance of finishing in a reasonable amount of time since you'll be able to get everything apart.
8. The biggest challenge is handling the heavy tranny and positioning it to get it back on. I ended up buying a atv jack to do the job. I'm sure there is a less expensive way to do it (without help) but I just didn't feel like dealing with it. It was hard enough with the atv jack (which I returned).
9. Those axle seals are a pain in the ***. I would only replace them if you need to (since swapping I'm sure you do). If you are replacing you want to grease them up a bit before doing so. They are different for each side.
10. To get the axles out the best method is to push in/compress and then yank out. Do this a few times and they'll come out easily.
11. The hardest bolt is the one facing the passenger side wheel near toward the firewall. To get that one off I had to get impact extensions. I ended up going through the passenger side wheel well to get it off. You may not have to do that - I have headers.
I will get around to doing a detailed write up one of these days.
Good luck.
10-29-2004, 04:35 PM
#7
That is good stuff Max Gator. All in all, it is pretty straight forward but takes some doing. Stay organized and I hope you have the right tools--the difference between a semi-enjoyable endeavor vs. frustrating torment.
I had the benefit of using another car and doing the install over a few days. If you don't, just don't lose your cool if things go wrong unexpectantly. In the end, it'll be worth it because you will save some bucks, you will learn some stuff, and you will know it was done right.
I had the benefit of using another car and doing the install over a few days. If you don't, just don't lose your cool if things go wrong unexpectantly. In the end, it'll be worth it because you will save some bucks, you will learn some stuff, and you will know it was done right.
10-29-2004, 11:17 PM
#10
Originally Posted by ChristheNite
Well if you are going 5spd let me know if you need a transmission, I have a 5spd pulled and ready to ship!
Chris
Chris
any problem with transmission??
10-31-2004, 06:00 AM
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
That is good stuff Max Gator. All in all, it is pretty straight forward but takes some doing. Stay organized and I hope you have the right tools--the difference between a semi-enjoyable endeavor vs. frustrating torment.
I had the benefit of using another car and doing the install over a few days. If you don't, just don't lose your cool if things go wrong unexpectantly. In the end, it'll be worth it because you will save some bucks, you will learn some stuff, and you will know it was done right.
I had the benefit of using another car and doing the install over a few days. If you don't, just don't lose your cool if things go wrong unexpectantly. In the end, it'll be worth it because you will save some bucks, you will learn some stuff, and you will know it was done right.
Let me add - I would suggest that you resurface your flywheel. That will require you to take it to a local machine shop. Of course it is also an additional step - one that may be difficult if you don't have another vehicle.
Also, to the extent possible leave bolts and nuts attached to the car. For example, the bolts on the bottom of the tranny DO NOT need to come out. Just loosen them and leave them in the holes - the cross member is in the way. I would take a small box - punch holes in it so that it mirrors the pattern of bolts on the crankcase and just put the bolts in those holes to avoid confusion.
I hope you are going to replace the clutch components when you do the swap - I believe it is worth it since you won't want to do this again.
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