DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

So when I was done I try to fire up the engine and I hear a loud POP. Ok, I check all the fuses, check the clutch/inhibitor relay and nothing. I try to manually fire up the starter and the solenoid spins but no crank. I remember my dad saying that the car should fire up. Well ok, I go to my other max and try the same thing. It also just spins the solenoid and it doesn't crank. So I get inside the other max and just try to turn it on normally, it works fine. So I kind of eliminated the starter as the problem. The relay, well the one in my car is the blue kind not the brown, at least I think it is. Whoever had the car before used some ****ed up mechanics, the relays seem to be out of place and colored differently. Anyways I think the pop was my fault, obviously, the ground in the trunk must've been weak or something. Everything else works as far as I can tell, all accesories are working. When I turn the key to acc there is a pretty long sound 2 seconds maybe that I don't remember hearing before. I know it was there but it had a different sound to it. So, what the **** is wrong? I'm hoping it's the starter but what if it's not?

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

check your fuseable links

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

All those were already checked. I checked all 4 fuse and relay boxes.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

If the accesories work then the ground is fine. Where was the pop? Front or rear?

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks numb nuts, now go back to class. The pop was in the front Broaner. Thing is if I used it when the battery was in the trunk everything would shut off after a minute.

Maxima Mike

Ooh, u r teh e-tuffguy!

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Try swapping starters from your other car to see if it's the prob.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Are you looking to get banned or something?

Maxima Mike

no, the guy got all defensive and called him a numb nuts when trying to help.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Help, he said the car is broke? How is that helping? Just noticed the guy deleted his post, I wasn't replying to Broaners post, there was another one before his.
Either way all is fine now, thanks for the help.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

I actually deleted it and that's how I'm handling these things.

What was the problem with the car?

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Seems that the wires going to one of the relays shorted out a few relays in the box. The box is a mess like said before when I mentioned the idiot mechanic. One of the relays is actually melted and outside the box alltogether. I replaced the relays and replaced the exposed wire. I'm not sure if I reconnected one of the relays back correctly as the leads themselves just came out instead of staying in the bottom part of the holder. I think it was a fan relay but I can't say for sure. Thanks for clearing up the mess deezo.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

No problem.

sterlingmaxima

iTrader: (16)

what gauge wire are you using?

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

it's 1/0 which iz bigger than 0 gauge, it's enough, that I know. What would be the best ground point in the trunk. I used the one that's behind the little door thingy for the jack and tools. I know the one for th latch is fine and the strup bolts are fine too.

jdm71488

this may be a dumb question, but if i relocated it to the trunk, which i will probably do... will this prolong the start of the engine because the battery is farther away?

also, when you hook a battery up, the positive is running to the starter? and the negative is running to the ground? or is it the other way around? it seems like there should be something else...

i hear all of this talk about blowing fuses, and what not, and it makes me think this is actually more complicated than it probably is... i guess i feel like i need more parts...

yeah, im 16, i dont know much on this topic... sorry to post *****...

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Well, the positive runs to the starter and the negative runs to the trans ground, on my 5spd it does. I'm not entirely sure now though but I think that's right. I would think it prolongs it but I doubt it. My friend steve has his in the trunk becasue of the SC and it starts right up. My car the battery took 2 or 3 cranks to start even when it was in the engine bay. Mine also blew the ECCS fuse which is the ECU fuse I believe. I didn't notice it blew til I tested it with the Fluke. Either way, we're shooting those exhaust videos tomorrow morning.

jdm71488

its weird though... when you think of a circuit, like a batter and a light bulb, they both are connected to the light bulb... in my head its like they should both be connected to the starter...

- cant wait for the clips! did you hear about scarfaces 95 videos? thats crazy... i cant wait for his release. HE NEEDS TO HURRY!!!

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Well, almost the entire car is one big ground meaning they both are connected to the ground. Look at the starter, the positive is covered with the small rubber boot while the ground is a small black wire before it connected to the other bolt nut. If you look at the positive cable on your battery you'll see there are a FEW cable going from it, not just one.

jdm71488

yeah, another issue... can i use the cable that comes with a kit? because the stock positive cable has crap on it? do i need all of that?

aspec0002

when i relocated mine, i ran a ground wire too, i don't know why but i figured grounding to the block first would help the starter so i did, havent had any problems, when it was grounded to the frame it did take more cranks though to start. for me at least.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

You have to connect the cable from the kit to the original positive cable. Take out the screw from the positive cable, take a ring terminal and allign the holes, put the screw back in and tighten. Wrap in tape, lots of tape and you're done. Also take the original grond and ground it somewhere.