before i order my new springs and stuts i just want to make sure i dont need anything else. I have access to a bunch of tools but nothig to major. Can this be done in the driveway with 2 people? I know there are pictures and steps in the how to's but i was wondering how many ppl have really done this themself and did they run into any problems and how long did it take. Did you replace anything else while you were at it? thanks let me kno also if anyone has a better how 2 then in the how 2s please send it over thanks

 

1. replace the strut bearings and check the strut mounts to make sure they are still ok
2. replace the dust boots (front and rear) - check them for wear.. mine had disintegrated.
3. you'll need to rent a spring compressor from autozone or whereever - be careful with it.
4. I would estimate (if you've never done this before), 1 hour per axle.

OR - just look in the regional section and have one of the guys do it - most will do all 4 wheels for 100 bucks... you just show up with all the parts.

 

Make sure you invest in some jack stands.

 

yup i have jack stands and have brand new strut mounts. Do i really need dust boots? Also what exactly are the strut bearings-can some1 elaberate on that thanks

 

Littel grey plastic discs that sit on top of the strut. They allow the whole strut to turn with the steering wheel.

 

It's actually very easy to do ... here's what you'll need:

Hydraulic Jack
Jack Stands
Metric Sockets
Spring Compressors

Here's some instructions to lead you along the way. They may not be 100%, but it should be good enough to get you through it. Always refer to the service manual for torque specs and better instructions

Front Instructions:
Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Do not place the jack stands under any suspension parts as you'll want the suspension to be fully extended (down). Find a good spot under the frame.

Pull off the tires.

Open the hood and loosen the center strut retaining bolt, DO NOT REMOVE IT. Just loosen it up a few turns, otherwise it's a pain to break loose later. Then, completely remove the three nuts holding the strut to the car.

Now, from underneath, unclip the brake lines from the strut itself and position them out of the way. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the strut (17mm or 18mm, I forget which). You may want to spray on some liquid wrench or equivalent to help beak them loose. Just use a long handle rachet to get the leverage needed to pop them loose.

Once those two bolts are off, you should be able to pull the strut out of the car. You won't need to suupport the spindle and lower control arm, you can just let it hang there.

Now, use your spring compressor and compress the spring on the strut assembly until the top mount wobbles around freely. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO SPRING PRESSURE ON THE STRUT OR TOP MOUNT!! Now, remove the retaining nut from the top of the strut and pull it all apart.

Make sure you remember how it all came off, because it has to go back together the same exact way.

Now, slowly uncompress the spring now that it's off the strut. You'll need the compressors to put the new spring/strut assembly together.

Compress the new spring and put the strut back together with your new dust boot and strut mount. Put on the center retaining nut, you should have a new one from the new struts and torque it down to specs (I think it's 80ft/lb, but check the manual to be sure).

Now, simply reinstall the new strut by mounting the top first. It's easier to have the top in and loosely bolted into place so you can spin the strut so the lower bolts match up. **The top mount will only go in one way, the bolts are not equally spaced, they are offset.

Reconnect everything to the strut and you're all set.


Rear Procedures:

Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Make sure the e-brake is OFF, it can pre-load the suspension if it's on.

Go into the trunk and pull back the plastic trim to expose the upper strut mounts. Losen the center retaining nut a few turns (14mm ?), again, DO NOT REMOVE IT.

Now, remove the two nuts that hold the strut in place (12mm I believe).

Go under the car and, with liquid wrench, losen the lower strut bolt. There is one bolt per side and I think it's a 16mm or 17mm.

Use the same steps as above with the spring compressor and strut assembly.

Reinstall the struts and enjoy your new ride

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Like I said, this is just a guide. Check for torque specs on all nuts and bolts in the service manual and check the instructions in case I missed any steps.


It shouldn't take you more than 3 hours to do by yourself.

 

Buy your own spring compressors. If it costs $10 a day to rent them then it will only take 4 days to make up the price difference. I have used my spring compressors many times as well as loaning them to friends(At least $100 worth of rental time and the rental ones are ****). Its worth it to have the right tools. If something breaks and removing the spring is required then you won't be deturred from fixing it right.

 

autozone rents them for 40 bux and u get ur money back when u return them

 

where can i pick up these strut bearings and how much are they? Do i need part # or anything.My Front 2 struts are just about brand new but oem style. I just bought the car and they were replaced right before i got it-do i still need to replace them. Im assuming everythign was replaced with this

 

Yeah everything I have rented from autozone was basically a deposit. I got all of my money back.

http://web.archive.org/web/200112270...x/springs.html

Kind of time consuming but with some good tools, some mechanical knowledge or a friend who has some, and some patience it is not a really hard thing to do.

Replace the strut bearings and dust boots/bump stops.

 

On my 95 nuts were rusted on top of one strut bearing to the point that I had to cut it off with a metal saw.

 

thanks and where can i get these srrut bearing? local part store -what if i put back in the old ones since they are just about brand new? is that okay or just get all 4 brand new ones

 

Do you need to get alignment after you lower the car? Or do you not mess with the alignment part of the suspension.

 

yea do ya need 2 get one - i was told you do so u can get the best ride possible out of it

 

I just replace mine two weeks ago. If I had been a little more careful, it would have been done in 3 hours. But I somehow managed to pull my axle out of the cv joint. Spent another two hours trying to get it back in; had to break the seal and slide the boot back... then try to bend back the bent retaining clip on the axle before it would slide back in to the cv joint.
hint: when removing/installing the strut back in the car, don't move the rotor any more than you have to; or better yet... take off the rotor.

 

What should be checked for...what would make them bad. Also, nobody thinks the other rubber spacer's etc should be replaced.

I know some people have bought gasket material and cut out new orange spacer things themselves. Anybody know how thick those are?




You should get an alignment.

 

Check to see if they're rusted, cracked, bent, beat up .. or just generally not in good shape. Honestly, if you're going to have it all taken apart, you might as well replace everything you can.

 

yea i will check em but prbly just get some new ones

 

Me and my bro did our cars in less then like 3 hours each, Make sure u dont start working on it saturday afternoon cause most dealers will be closed sundays(the parts dept.) and if it happens for something to go wrong ull have to wait till monday morning. Good luck btw what struts and combo did u go with 97maxxx?

 

just got myself a set of sprints -big drop with a set of kybs hopefully it will give me the look and feel that i am looking for

 

Cheap illumina's in my sig if your interested. Alot of people seem to have problems with KYB's blowing and a low drop like sprints will just make it worse. Don't want it to feel like I'm trying to sell you anything (I don't get anything out of selling these...I even already have mine), just trying to help out a fellow orger.

 

thanks man if they blow i will def hit you up -sry they are already bought so i will keep ya in mind -plus i got a warranty from the guy that sold em to me and it is good from defect for i thynk lyke 6 months so if they blow i will try and get my money back or some of it and ill hit ya up

 

Yeah I won't have anything to do with it by that time. You will likely be able to get this deal in the future without a GD. I'll be posting the info on maxmods when this run is over.

Good luck with the KYB's. The illumina's have a lifetime warrenty (although it would probably be void if you told them you had sprints), so definitely keep them in mind if you do have to replace them.

 

do youll think i will need a camber kit-some ppl have them are they really neccessary?

 

This is what happens without one. I'm only partly serious. Part of this wear was caused by a broken upper strut mount. Part was caused by bad LCA bushings. The rest was caused by about a -1 degree of camber which is what I was shooting for. BTW, this is what can happen with no ABS. D@mn deer!