cleaned TB a month ago, still high idle. how to fix?
#1
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cleaned TB a month ago, still high idle. how to fix?
what causes high idle after cleaning the TB? during cold starts my rpm goes up to 1400-1500 instead of 1100-1200 and when car is fully warm in gear, it sits right at 1k instead of 750-800 and when in neutral it sits lower than usual at 500 rpm.
where is the screw and how do i fix the high idle? also what is the normal RPM for auto tranny. should i adjust it when engine is cold or after the engine is fully warm ?!
thanks in advance
where is the screw and how do i fix the high idle? also what is the normal RPM for auto tranny. should i adjust it when engine is cold or after the engine is fully warm ?!
thanks in advance
#4
There is a plastic screw under a black cap on the IACV. It is sorta reccesed(sp?) in the hole like a set screw.
Set it warm. There is a procedure in the svc manual on which sensor to unplug first.
as I recall you shut off the car after warming it up, unplug the TPS and restart the engine. This may turn on the check engine light but it will go out after a couple days, or erase the code by taking the batt cable off for 10 min.
Set it warm. There is a procedure in the svc manual on which sensor to unplug first.
as I recall you shut off the car after warming it up, unplug the TPS and restart the engine. This may turn on the check engine light but it will go out after a couple days, or erase the code by taking the batt cable off for 10 min.
#8
I'm giving all the idle threads a bump this morning so that, hopefully, someone more experienced can give us some good advice.
96 stillen max> how will the throttle cables cause a high idle. Are you assuming they are too tight.
I would also like to know why you should have to adjust the idle after you clean the TB and IACV? I don't understand why you should have to mess with the settings at all. The idle should be poor before you clean these components, and then improve afterwords. But the settings shouldn't have to be messed with.
I DID successfully lower my idle yesterday by disconnecting the TPS and backing out the set screw on the throttle body. See my thread here:
http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthr...=1#post3454552
Greg
96 stillen max> how will the throttle cables cause a high idle. Are you assuming they are too tight.
I would also like to know why you should have to adjust the idle after you clean the TB and IACV? I don't understand why you should have to mess with the settings at all. The idle should be poor before you clean these components, and then improve afterwords. But the settings shouldn't have to be messed with.
I DID successfully lower my idle yesterday by disconnecting the TPS and backing out the set screw on the throttle body. See my thread here:
http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthr...=1#post3454552
Greg
#9
Also, something to consider is air leaks. I used to own an '85 Saab and it had lots of idle problems. They were caused by 1) the IACV, and 2) air leaks in the intake system. The problem was that the idle was controlled in part by the MAF sensor measuring airflow across itself, but if air leaks were present downstream from the MAF, the engine was actually taking in more air the the MAF thought it was taking in, and the idle increase (or worse, hunted, which would really drive me crazy).
I don't know if maximas have a similar phenomina if there are air or vacuum leaks, but I would strongly urge everyone to make sure all the intake components, including vacuum hoses, PCV grommets, vacuum grommets at the brake booster and intake, etc., etc., are very TIGHT, and leak free. Its just a preliminary theory, but perhaps as these cars age, plastic gets brittle and rubber gets hard, these idle problems will continue to crop up.
GregS
'95 Max, 118k
I don't know if maximas have a similar phenomina if there are air or vacuum leaks, but I would strongly urge everyone to make sure all the intake components, including vacuum hoses, PCV grommets, vacuum grommets at the brake booster and intake, etc., etc., are very TIGHT, and leak free. Its just a preliminary theory, but perhaps as these cars age, plastic gets brittle and rubber gets hard, these idle problems will continue to crop up.
GregS
'95 Max, 118k
#10
the throttle cables can cause the idle to be to high, but not too low. if your idle is sometimes too high and then sometimes too low, or it is always hunting, then it is most likely a problem with the IAC, PCV and or the EGR valves. cleaning these should set your idle back to normal...i did for me.
also, a hunting idle can be a TPS problem. clean the valves first and if its still acting up, test the TPS. there is a thread about it in the how-tos.
also, a hunting idle can be a TPS problem. clean the valves first and if its still acting up, test the TPS. there is a thread about it in the how-tos.
#11
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The proper way to adjust the idle speed on 95 - 99 is as follows:
Warm the engine up to operating temp, at leaset a 15 min. drive.
Shut engine off and disconnect the TPS.
Restart the car, the CEL should NOT be on.
Adjust the idle speed to ~650 RPMs, neutral, no accessories on.
Turn engine off and reconnect the TPS.
Restart engine, if the idle speed is not correct adjust it using the IACV bypass adjustment screw to approx 700 - 750 RPM.
You need to set the default idle speed at the throttle body first, then adjust the IAVC only if necessary to correctly set your idle speed.
Warm the engine up to operating temp, at leaset a 15 min. drive.
Shut engine off and disconnect the TPS.
Restart the car, the CEL should NOT be on.
Adjust the idle speed to ~650 RPMs, neutral, no accessories on.
Turn engine off and reconnect the TPS.
Restart engine, if the idle speed is not correct adjust it using the IACV bypass adjustment screw to approx 700 - 750 RPM.
You need to set the default idle speed at the throttle body first, then adjust the IAVC only if necessary to correctly set your idle speed.
#12
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
The proper way to adjust the idle speed on 95 - 99 is as follows:
Warm the engine up to operating temp, at leaset a 15 min. drive.
Shut engine off and disconnect the TPS.
Restart the car, the CEL should NOT be on.
Adjust the idle speed to ~650 RPMs, neutral, no accessories on.
Turn engine off and reconnect the TPS.
Restart engine, if the idle speed is not correct adjust it using the IACV bypass adjustment screw to approx 700 - 750 RPM.
You need to set the default idle speed at the throttle body first, then adjust the IAVC only if necessary to correctly set your idle speed.
Warm the engine up to operating temp, at leaset a 15 min. drive.
Shut engine off and disconnect the TPS.
Restart the car, the CEL should NOT be on.
Adjust the idle speed to ~650 RPMs, neutral, no accessories on.
Turn engine off and reconnect the TPS.
Restart engine, if the idle speed is not correct adjust it using the IACV bypass adjustment screw to approx 700 - 750 RPM.
You need to set the default idle speed at the throttle body first, then adjust the IAVC only if necessary to correctly set your idle speed.
thanks, just what i was looking for except i have no clue what TPS is ?! is it seen in one of the pix i posted?
#14
I guess I'm still suspicous about my car because 1) I never had a problem until I cleaned the throttle body, and 2) I had to back my set screw out so much to get the idle down to 700rpm with the TPS unplugged. I had to back it out so much that the throttle actuators don't even touch the set screw anymore. Somehow this just doesn't seem right, and even after backing it out that much the idle only went down to 700rpm (not 650 or lower).
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
#15
Originally Posted by Julchen
I guess I'm still suspicous about my car because 1) I never had a problem until I cleaned the throttle body, and 2) I had to back my set screw out so much to get the idle down to 700rpm with the TPS unplugged. I had to back it out so much that the throttle actuators don't even touch the set screw anymore. Somehow this just doesn't seem right, and even after backing it out that much the idle only went down to 700rpm (not 650 or lower).
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
You need to screw it IN to get the idle down
#17
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by Julchen
I guess I'm still suspicous about my car because 1) I never had a problem until I cleaned the throttle body, and 2) I had to back my set screw out so much to get the idle down to 700rpm with the TPS unplugged. I had to back it out so much that the throttle actuators don't even touch the set screw anymore. Somehow this just doesn't seem right, and even after backing it out that much the idle only went down to 700rpm (not 650 or lower).
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
Again, can anyone give me more detail on diagnosing and cleaning the EGR valve?
Thanks,
Greg
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