Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

my 97 se has itself a bit of a problem. i cant see crap out of the back window cuz the tinting is all bubbled up. i tlkaed to some window repair/tinting people, and they said they dont like doing windows with defrosters on em cuz theres too much that could go wrong. i really dont like not being able to see out of the back, what can i do aside from buying a whole new window? anyone dealt with this before?

Igobuk

iTrader: (1)

Tedious but do-able.

Carefully slice into the bubbles with a razor being careful not to cut your defroster grid OR start peeling at one of the top corners where there is no grid. Have some Clorox handy and try and squirt some in. The Clorox will destroy the tint and the glue but not hurt the glass or grid. Be super careful as it WILL hurt your interior and you'll end up with spots.

You may also try vinegar, GooGone or a heat gun but Clorox works best.

So as you get Clorox in there, gently tug on the tint, wait for the Clorox to loosen it and keep tugging. The tint will come off and the rear window and grid will be fine.

Make sure to get a good respirator from HomeDepot or something as the fumes will be intense even if you're outside with a house fan in the car and windows, sunroof and doors are open. Also wear some rubber gloves and goggles just in case of a splash and just to be safe you may want to remove your rear deck and seats.

Sounds like you're suiting up for surgery but it'll work. Just take your time. Once you get the tint off completely, give the rear window one last wipe down with Clorox to make sure all the glue is off.

Then wipe down several times with water to make sure all of the Clorox is off. Let the car air out until you can breath inside of it again. It may smell like a swimming pool for a few days but you will have saved your back window and grid.

Be sure to test the grid, then go have it tinted as if nothing ever happened.

Good Luck, only did this once on a Trans Am rear window and never want to do it again. But it did work. Then I got it tinted at a more reputable place then the first time and the tint never bubbled up again.

Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

i believe this is the factory tint, its 35%, any tips on how to make sure this crap never happens again, or is it just get a good place to do it and is *shouldnt*?

chenzarino

iTrader: (2)

Not factory tint. When a car comes tinted from the factory, the glass itself is tinted, unlike aftermarket tint where the tint is applied to the inner side of the glass. Sounds like whoever had the car before you did it themselves and didnt do it right. Get it off and have a pro tint it. Up to you if you want to use clorox, thta sounds like it could get real ugly real fast.

JSMax

iTrader: (13)

Some tint places have a chemical that will remove the tint without hurting the inside of the car. They spray it on, let the car sit in the sun for an hour or two then peel off the inside tint. I know because a buddy of mine has a c230 and redoes his tint every 2 years. Find a GOOD tint shop and you might pay a little more for the end result, but it will be totally worth it. Oh, and btw, if you let the tint adhere completely to the rear window after about 2 days your defroster will work fine without bubbling up the tint

chenzarino

iTrader: (2)

My guy said wait a week before using the defroster.
I have zero bubbles.

JSMEXUSA

If you are going to tint window again try to get a decent quality one like Llumar high performance which is twice as thick than regular and last way longer, besides go to a profesional place where they give you lifetime guaranty.

Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

sweet, thanks for the advice guys, thats next on my list of things to do.

monty95

iTrader: (1)

yeah, if you take it to a shop its nearly 300 bucks just for the rear window because of all that work. like Igobuck said, very Teeedious...

98i30

$300????
I paid $70 for the back window + 2 rear windows 3 year ago.
No bubles what so ever.