When im accelerating the car sometimes stuttering on acceleration and high speed cruising. I already checked stickies, cant find out what it can be, any ideas? it ususally goes away after an hour of driving or so. Any help is appreciated, thanx

 

You must have a 99. Its a coil pack issue. When you get a CEL, read the stickies to find out which cylinder.

 

it could also ba a clog in the fuel system. Try changing the fuel filter and see if it helps. But I like the coipack theory better, especially if you get a CEL. Spark plugs/wires also comes to mind....

 

thanc for the replys, its a 98 se , so i doubt the coilpacks are bad. And i replaced the fuel filter about 1K ago , ill check it again but i doubt its this. Could it be the timing? what i mean is could it be being retarded by the ecu, perhaps due to a bad knock sensor? Thank fo the input

 

Drewm,

Mine is doing the same thing kind of.
I have replaced all the plugs/fuel filter within the past 15k miles and it started back.
It will blink a CEL sometimes, but by the time I stop and check it(like that day at AutoZone), it does not show any codes....even with their scanner.
I never get a CEL that stays on.

My question is:
Do I just keep driving until I get a CEL if I don't want to replace all of my coil packs?

 

i honestly dont know what you should do , but a blinking cel light means you are having detonation, dont know what could cause that tho if u dont have a cel on all the time. mabey sumone else here knows?

 

I had the exact same problem. Turned out it was fuel injector #1. Of course right under the im. Needless to say had had a fun filled day removing it.

 

It actually means you're having a misfire...so bad coils.

 

I had/have same problem, replaced coil....still having same problem, only code i got was 0603 (and knock sensor buts its unrelated)

 

I'm telling you guys its not always the coil if you have a misfire. Odds are that it is, but i had a misfire in cylinder one. Changed coils everything was the same. Changed fuel injector problem went away. So remember its either spark or fuel.

 

I'm not disagreeing i just want to make sure, before i go and waste more money since it looks like i bought a coil for nothing

 

i have the same problem I'm going to chane plugs again to bosch platinum +4 if doesnt change i will start with the injectors... any recomendations or tricks to replace injectors?
cuz mine does it when i'm driving about 75+ mph stutter and kicks about 500 rpm and loss them again...
it cold be the injectors but i will try the plugs first due.

 

What i did was changed coils around then unplugged them if the engine tone changes then you kow its a good coil. But if you unplug the one where have the cel and no change still its most likely a injector

 

Just im me or pm if you need help with the injector, i had to remove my IM to get to mine.

 

Thanks man...

 

could also be an egr problem. when the valve stick open it will cause a little shuddering at high speeds. it hard to tell though without driving the car though

 

Do NOT switch to bosch. ONLY USE NGK plugs. Copper or plats will work.

 

wow thax for all the replys and info , i guess ill check out the coils first, ill do em in a week or so, after exams.

 

Don't everyone bail out yet....

I heard, from the Autozone guy, that there is a way to test the coil packs to see if they are functioning correctly or not. Is this true? He said that if I took it to my mechanic, he would know how to check them. I don't want to have to take it to a mechanic, but want to fix it myself.

Any help?

 

they aren't hard to check u just need a multimeter and you check the resistence between the 2nd and 3rd plugs that connect to the wire harness, should be infinite when going from 2nd to 3rd or something like that, buy a haynes manual its all in there.

 

Hmm, your description is a bit vague. When I had similar symptoms both my exhaust and engine coolant temp sensor were the basic culprits.

 

I am having the same problem intermintently [?] as well as a heat problem and i have a bad Engine Temperature Sensor as well. I beleive it is a the culprit in both cases.

 

The Haynes does have it all in there?

 

The problem is finally showing up a pretty consistent CEL. It took like 6 months for this to happen. For quite a while, the problem would just go away....but then return again.

Anyway, I cannot remember which coil packs are better: Hanshin or Mitsu?

Also, the NAPA guy told me that there were two prongs per coil.......one coil split to two cylinders. I just didn't know if this was true. I guess I have not really looked under there enough to know. Is that the case, or are there 6 coil packs....one for each?

 

What code are you getting from the CEL? There is one coil pack per cylinder - total of 6 in your car.

 

My car slightly shudders during acceleration but I thought it was just my new clutch/ flywheel combo.(which still slips) Maybe I should be checking other options. Just changed plugs(NGK double platnums) and new fuel filter.

 

Just to make sure....the right bank of the engine is the one nearer to the firewall? Correct? For some reason, I am doubting myself, even though I think that is it.....I just want to make sure....I am about to put a coil pack in.
Thanks....

 

My brother has one of those scanners.
It says that I have a cylinder misfire, but it does not tell in which cylinder.
I don't know what to think of that.

Here is the deal...

My car is not studdering badly at idle....not just at the 3500rpm point. Before, there was just a little hesitation at that point in the rpm powerband, and then it was fine. The other funny thing is that it was not all the time.

Well, now at idle, it sounds really rough....like chug...chug...chug.
I was in the car to see the rpm's while my bro helped me by unplugging coil packs and seeing if there was change in the tone or not.

Here was the consensus:
After we tested them all, we ended up having all three front cylinders(left bank) unplugged, so that they were getting no spark at all. It is going to sound funny, but the car actually ran smoother on three cylinders than it was on 6 with some misfiring.

I put one of the good new coilpacks in one of those front cylinders and it didn't change. That tells me that it is possibly not a spark problem, but maybe a fuel problem? I don't know? Injectors?

I was wondering if, since all three of the fronts are not responding to a new coilpack....maybe it is something bigger than just one injector/all injectors. I don't know....could all of this be caused from a clogged fuel filter and trash getting into the cylinders via trashy fuel? I changed it like 35k miles ago, so I don't know if it would already be dirty? I know what some are thinking....but I use premium fuel, so that is not an issue.

To go about solving it, I would naturally do it this way:
fix the cheapest things and then work my way up to the more expensive stuff until it is fixed. That would put the injectors last.

What should I do?
Help me please.

Should I just buy another fuel filter and put some fuel treatment through it and go from there?

If that is what is recommended.....didn't I hear something about being able to use an older model 300ZX fuel filter because it is bigger or something?
Help on that too would be appreciated.

Sorry for the long post.

 

Bruce:

1. The right side is the bank closest to the firewall
2. You might want to start your own thread with post #28 as your first post
3. Cylinder misfire could be caused by either no spark, no fuel or no air. Looks like you've gone down the road of a bad coil pack ... did you change out any of the plugs yet? Thats another cheap option.

Start a fresh thread and let's pick this up in there.. PM me a link to your new thread.

Cheers.

 

Hi everyone,
I too am noticing my 95 Maxima GLE very sluggish when accelerating and periodically it sputters and stalls when slowing down. I dont feel like i'm getting any horsepower out of it. Does this sound like a similar problem? Is there something in the '95's that I should know about?

Thanks!

- Neil