Any of this soldering would fix a dead Bose head unit? Dead meaning no power at all, nothing plays nor can I eject the CD in there.

Or is this just for fixing the CD Err problem and no display problem?

 

in my case, bose was dead except LED of the buttons. nothing plays. can't eject cd. no radio. no tape. no response pressing any button. but now everything works.

 

Hmmm thanks.

I have the same exact problem except two of my LED buttons don't work. Either way I will go and start soldering tomorrow and hopefully I can listen to something once again. lol

 

Clarification on how to reflow the resistor:

IMPORTANT: You don't need any solder to do this, just reflow the sold already there. Basically run your solder guns tip up and down the length of the rististor (on the left and right side, where the contact patches are). There is no contact point on the reverse side of the board, they are machine mounted which means that they are just stuck on and held by nothing but solder. The last thing u want is a big glob of solder on the board that is going to bridge two pathways or leads together.

 

alright thanks brentk7 thats what i needed to know

 

I have a quick question, does anyone have a count of how many resistors there is to solder? I just finished taking out the Bose (Took longer than expected) and later tonight I'll start with the soldering.

 

does any one have a fully working Bose that clips (distorts) when a CD is played at high volumes? Im looking to fix it.

 

im a little frusterated. I spent awhile trying not to strip this one screw holding the cd player in then i realized i didnt even need to take it apart.
Anyhow i got the "problem board" and i see the resistor but it looks like the resistor is attached with solder and everything. Im going to heat it up anyway but can someone explain how it would disconnect even though still soldered? I mean...it seems liek everyone whos tried has got it to work but if i solder it and it doesnt work when i put it all together im going to be disappointed...

 

okay here goes nothing, ive decided im going to add a tiny bit of solder...im still surprised that this tiny chip is the reason the whole cd thing dont work

 

Status report: In attemp to fix my bose unit I have lost my display and odd things happen.

One: I didnt know WASN'T suppost to flip the board and solder I didnt know I needed to stay on the top, so last night after reading everyones posts and they just sucessfully fixed it, I figured what the hell and was soldering like crazy adding some solder to some that seemed to have little or none.

So I go to connect it in the car and after pluggin both of the audio connectors (white ones) my security led starts blinking faster, I was a little worried disconnected one of the white audio cable it went back to normal pace reconnected and it sped up, was worried the unit would blow up in my hands if I added the power but, I did so anyways, security light went back to normal pace. turn it key, turn on unit heard radio but no display went to play a cd nothing, was hearing an odd noise like change to a tv station that doesnt exists and that static sound was hearing that when I was waiting for the cd to load, so I knew within that minute that it didnt work and that i need to start over.

so I'm going to try and take off the solder I added and get it as back to normal as I can, then solder on the front of it as I was soldering the back, which I thought was the place but really isnt.

On the bright side I'm glad I'm trying this on a spare Bose Unit my brother had but bought a one from a 99 max, so this unit isnt even used anyway so my own unit is still displaying fine but no CD playing so if can fix this one and get it working good, then I'll do it to my unit.



man . . . .


will post back later

 

Does anyone know how to measure the 470 using a multimeter? Is it in ohms? And how do i use it on the resistor? thanks

 

i also soldered both of the resistors and when i got in my car and plugged it all in i still got the cd err...im very disappointed so im going to try the resistor and if thats getting the power it should i dont knwo what to do....

 

If only I would've known this I wouldve kept my Bose


Bahahaha who am I kidding, our Blose system suck

 

Hold up, you can't check the resistance of the resistor just by touching the leads with an ohm meter. First you have to disconnect (at least one lead) from the board. Otherwise it is measuring the copasitance of the entire board, not just your resistor.

I have never heard of one of these resistors going bad, the odds that it is bad are very slim.

For anyone who lost display while doing this that is because somewhere during the process you messed up another resistor. Just go back over it.

 

man...im losing hope...I did the soldering very very carefully (felt like i was hardly doing anything) and i was thinking that i was hardly making a difference. I plugged it in and it didnt work and now i dont know waht to do....if i should try again or what...
i dont want to pop off the resistor...the 470 ohm resistors i found at radioshack looked like little beans...they werent square shaped so i didnt buy them

 

Yup, I lost display radio, and still couldnt play CDs.

went back and took off as much solder as I could, plus reflowed on the top of the board ( I got it right this time ) Display is back, Radio is still gone (just static on every knows and uknown station), and CD still Err. . . will try reflowing all the resistors on top, if it makes the CD player work again then reflowing all (as stated) would probably be the best thing to do, and I'll just do that on MY unit thats in my car (not my bros spare, which is a test subject now).



its odd but I have 471 on the top of my resistors . . .

hope I get this working tonight

 

RE: its odd but I have 471 on the top of my resistors . . .

What this means is it is 47 and one (0) zero. if it was 472 then it would be a 4700 ohm resistor. But since it says 471 that means it is 47 and 1 (one) zero -> 470.

 

perhaps a picture is worth thousand words... here u go guys... have fun dissasembling
http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax2.htm

 

Man that **** didnt work for me,

I "reflowed" all of the resistors, and still "CD Errr" I tried it on my brothers unit, and also on my unit. I still get CD Err. . .


I'm done with it for now.

when soldering it should we be able to see a the copper that it seems to be welded onto? or should the coper be completely covered?

well going to sleep on that note

 

ill dream about my unit working and then wake up and check it out.
and brent, i barely tapped the side of one of those little black cylinders (transistor? i forgot already) and a tiny hole went into the plastic outside of it. I guess what im asking is what do the black cylinders do. And waht does the resistors weve been tryign to repair do?

 

I took apart the radio according to MadChef's procedure (Thank You). I got to the "problem board" and tested all the resistors. they all were fine except the 100 ohm one in posistion R525. It reads 10 ohms while the others read ohms very close the the number on the resistors. i called Radio Shack and they said they only carry cylindrical shaped resistors which can be used but only the wattage running through the resistor is known.

I have a few questions:

1. Has anyone used cylindrical shaped resistors and did it work fine?

2. What is the wattage running through our radio and what is the wattage that the our Bose resistors are suppose to carry?

3. Where else can I find the rectangler shaped resistors?

Thanks in advance.

 

before attempting all this perhaps u should just try cd lens cleaner. 7$ for it and cleans the laser. Tried it on mine cured cd error problem for about 20 mins. Still, might have to dissassemble and figure out what the hell is going on in there. if all fails, i ll probably get new unit Sony or something for like 100 $

 

the cylindar like thing is (i believe) a capasitor, if you owned then you might have a problem.

 

i think the "100" R525 you talked about is fine. read #60.
mine has the same 10 ohm tested with multi-meter.

 

i tried to keep the solder covered the same area as the original condition. you want enough contact with the copper to have connection. but don't want to cover too much area that you short the circuit. for me, in the end, the solder joint was a little bit larger than the original, as i added some solder(very very little, and be very careful. apply solder to the iron tip first, then apply the iron alone to the joint).

 

so what solder are we melting? from the top of the circuit board or unerneath the circuit board (under the resistors)?

 

yea I applied a little to the solder iron first then to the board, I'm going to try again tonight on my 2 bose unit and I think I tried to cover the copper patch so I'll try and move it so that there is some exposure.

 

if i try again im thinking im just gonna take the resistor off of the board and reapply it after checking it with the multimeter. I dont know anything about circuit boards and how the connections work or what does what. I added a tiny bit of solder to some resistors and i dont think i could see the copper after i did that, but i could hardly see the copper before too so, i dont know what the problem is.
and as for the lense cleaner, i tried the cds with the little brushes on them that clean the lense but that requires for the cd player to actually play the cd, which mine does not, i guess i'll look for a lense cleaner.
if i did something to that capasitor can i replace it?

 

RE: Capasitor

yes, just find out what type it is. If you don't know what you are looking for you could probably take it to RadioShack and show them and they could give you another one.

 

oh my god...now my radio doesnt work, and my cd player still doesnt work. How can i fix it...i just want to fix it.....at least the radio..
help me....

 

i just took it all apart...but i dont know what i should do. The radio and cd player dont work so now my unit seems worthless. If anything i just want the radio to work again, im heartbroken...

 

perhaps u should just take it to a private electrician and give him like 50 $ and he could fix it all up for you if you planning on keeping the unit. for me, if i kill it, ill just get a sony unit for like 100 $. even saw some cheap radio/cd unit for 30 $ in pepboys. it cant hurt to show it to a technician, they do it for a living so they would probably know what is out of place. dont take it to radioshack cause they probably will charge you alot.

 

i just want to keep it original, manufacturer so i'll buy a new bose unit if i need to. If repair only cost 50 bucks i would definently do it...as long as i didnt do anthing that permanently messed it up.
thanks...ill probably check with some electrician

 

does anyone know if a 1999 maxima bose unit would fit into my 1995?

 

i know im posting alot but i just used the multi meter and on the left resistor ,of the 2 we are assuming are display and cd player, i get 471 to 472 but then on the one to the right of it i get 469. I checked one across the board that says 681 (i burnt the capasitor next to it) and it either says 687 688 or 689....isnt that too much?

 

I noticed that the radio doesnt just NOT work, it didnt save any of my preset stations either...The stereo doesnt need to be "grounded" in order for it to work does it? All im doing is plugging it in without the brackets or in the dash or anything...it doesnt make a difference does it?

 

Anybody know off the top of their head if the CD ERR or display problems happen on 1999 Bose HUs? Did Bose fix anything, or is it only a matter of time? I'm guessing it's the latter, but that's OK because I'll be upgrading.

 

my brother bought a 99 unit for his 95 plays nicely. . . I'm so jelous

if anything ebay is a good source and there are about 7 different unit on there for sale.

man, I think the radio may be gone, I did that too and I lost the radio on the spare bose unit, and I lost the display. Got the display back but still cant get the radio, I'd try poping off the resistor and see, nothing left to lose now as the whole unit doesnt work. . . but still be careful.

 

mdeezy tell me what happens after popping off the resistor. Mine seemed fine. I found a 99 unit on ebay thats near my house so im hoping nobody else bids on it. The 99 unit has a different layout so i was just curious about it fitting. Thanks

 

I can empathize with everybody. My CD Player went out in 2002, and the tape player got a mind of its own the year after. About the same time my display went out. An electrician who works on car stereos can fix it for about $200. You'll be out of tunes for a week, but if you're not electrically savvy like myself then it's worth the hassle. I on the other hand found someone who was getting rid of his Bose system, and bought his HU for $50