Im planning on repairing my bose stereo as MadChef's website instructs. The only problem is i dont know what the resistors look like , or where they are on the board he mentioned. Ive also heard that you dont need to buy new resistors but just incase i do what would i ask for when going to buy them (at radioshack?). Thats about it, and i'd appreciate any advice as far as dismanteling my whole dash as it looks like i have to do, in order to get it out. Im concerned about clips i might lose and not be able to replace, i want everything to fit back in perfect and snug.
thank you very much

 

cant find the link but I have that parts saved in a word file.

it says to try resoldering all the resistors on the power board, and it should fix the problem. I will probably try this tommorow, because the radio is really getting on my nerves.

 

yeah i need to know...what the resistors look like. im new to all of this but im ready to learn too.

 

Theyre surface mount resistors. Theyre kinda rectangular shape and pretty small. They should have a number on top of them. It will also help to have a good soldering iron if you plan on fixing it

 

I can sell you my 97-99 bose HU cheap if you want.. perfect condition.

 

Have not posted to much. Here are some pictures of surface mount resistors. (hope they show up) They are very flat and small. They have a metal cap on each end, that is soldered to the board. A lot of times the resistors in question fail at the solder joints due to vibration and age. Get some good rosin core solder (not flux based) and heat the ends flow the solder and you are ready to reassemble. Once you heat one end enough to melt the solder the other end will melt also allowing the resistor to slide easily (use tweezers to hold the resistor) The Madchef instructions are extremely well written. study them before you start. They do show the location of the resistors. Some sections need some force to seperate. Remember that the unit retails for around $800. Be careful. I did this to fix the display problem two months ago so far so good. The metal that holds things together is only strong enough to do what it has to and the CD and Tape sections are delicate try to resist the urge to fix/clean/adjust anything else and you should be fine. Good luck! Sorry I could not figure out how to insert resistor pix, just google surface mount resistor.


Blake

 

Yeah i'd like to see pictures of them please. If you could please email them to me at chillin014@aol.com, i would appreciate it. Also, do you suggest i replace the resistors or just resolder them?
thank you very much

 

Ok, I'm the one who said the thing about not needing to buy new ones. First, you need to find the problem circuit board. The pics by MadChef are great to use, they will help you to identify which one it is, but be aware that you will need to completely disassemble the hu, including the cd player, tape deck, etc etc.

The pic of the resistor by MadChef is exactly it. If you are going for the non working display fix, it is a 470 ohm resistor that is extremely small and easily lost. Just pop it off with a flat head screw driver (your hand cupped over it so you don't lose it) and then resolder it back on, recircuiting the connection between the resistor and the contacts on the board. I think moisture has a lot to do with the problem.

For the cd err fix, the resistor has to be found on your own, because there are many that can be the problem that we know of. On the cd board, pop all of teh 470 ohm resistors off and resolder them all back on, this WILL fix the problem if you do it correctly.

I also have a 95-96 BOSE hu (fits 97-99 as well) for sale if you'd like. Pm me if your interested.

 

Hey Guys. I JUST (like yesturday) fixed my cd err problem. The resistors look like little square black things on the board. There are only 2 470 ohm resistors on the board (they say "470" right on the rististor itself). They are about an inch apart from each other. The one the the right controls the Display (which you won't need b/c your dispay seems to work fine) The one on the left controls your cd err problem. All we did was reflow the solder, which means to heat it up and let it try to reconnect itsellf. BE VERY CAREFUL that you don't move the resistor when it heats up, it is just held there by the solder and can move around very easily win hot. After that I just put it back together and it worked. Oh yea, while we were in there i reflowed all the resistors i could get to just to make sure they were n't causing problems too. Good luck, i will try to put up some "dash dismantle" help in this thread in a few minutes.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!i know what resistors your talking about. and yes the dash dismanteling picture would be a great help! Ive gotta buy a soldering gun, the getting it not to move sounds like a trick.

 

DASH REMOVAL HELP
---------------------------
this was very annoying. I have a 96 Maxima SE with a 5sp (dont know if that makes a difference around the shifter or not).

1. Pull the shifter bezel off (just have to full, if it is cold where you are be careful, don't want to break it).

2. unscrew the 1 screw that holds the ashtray in and ten pul the ashtray out. NOTE: the ashtray screw is on the left of the ashtray, on the right it is held in by 2 clips.

3. Pull the 2 screws out of the brackets that hold the bottom of the stereo cage to the car. (you can get to these 2 screws now because you took away the shifter bezel and the ashtray).

4. after step 3 you now have some prying room to manuever the bose unit cage. What you have to do now is take the vents/climate control out, no screws here it is all preasure set. Manuever the bose cage (at the bottom) so that you can get the fingers of your other hand inbetween the climate control and the bose controls. Now lift out and up to pull the vents/climate control out. You have to be forceful because it is all set in there by preasure clips. REMEMBER if it is cold be very careful, things could crack.

5. Now that the vents/climate control have been removed from the dash you can see the remaining 2 screws holding the bose console in, pull them out and you should be able to slide the stereo out. There are 2 wiring harnesses and 1 antenna wire (this is with no cd changer) to unplug from the console.

From this poing you can follow madchef and my instructions above to fix the problemed resistor.

hope this helped and Merry Christmas

 

thanks, do the clips on the ashtray stay in? im assuming it all just snaps back in and what not

 

RE: Ashtary clips:

The clips on the ashtray are not actually clips, they are part of the contruction of the ashtray, so you can't really loose them. They just snap into and outof place. I dont remember but u might have to get midevil with it to get it out.

Also i do remember you have to get midevil with the vent/climate control unit to get it out. JUST BE CAREFUL!

 

I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR BROKEN MAXIMAS

heh.

 

haha i realize that..if something breaks i'll be sad...but im sure theres parts somewhere i can buy.it can be fixed.....

 

hey, i heard taht TX got some snow last night. Was that in your area?

 

how much shipped?

31401 zipcode

 

BrentK7, thanks a lot for the detail. i have a question to ask you. how do you separate the wires and hose? these are connected to the ac and headunit. i found it very hard to separate. do you just drag the hose hard? and how about the wires? i had no idea about them. thanks, and merry christmas to all!

 

heres a pic I found, this the resistor your refering too?


My brothers Bose unit and Mine are down for the count, would be lovely to get them both fixed.

 

the black hose can be pulled off, every things else has a little nub of a button that will need to be pushed in to release it, a screw driver works best, its kinda tricky trying to pull and poke witha screw driver at the same time.

 

RE: AC hoses and wires

Yes the hose can just be pulled off. The 2 (or 3 i can't remember) wiring harnesses have just come off when you click the button. The big white one that is next to the hose...the button to release it is on the least excessable(sp?) side, just get it with a flatblade screwdriver.

~werd

 

MDeezy: The pic that you have there, the arrow points to the display resistor, if you are getting a "cd err" then you need to fix the resistor that is to the left of it. Or you can do what i did and just reflow all the resistors. That will hopefully prevent problems in the future.

 

how many disconnections need to be made?
the hoses arent for the air are they? they are electronic hoses correct?

 

Sweet the one on the left, that is good to know. this should be sticked cause I read the site with the repair but I didnt know which resistor to solder, I actually soldered the resistors on the CDE board, and the resistors that look like the ones we attacht to leds. I'm sure that was part due to me not reading it acurately.

thanks for the info, I wonder if your bose worked again due to that one resistor or the others you reflow, will I'll do the same and hope it works.

 

Hey guys, I would just like to add that nobody has ever told me exactly which resistor needs to be fixed for the "CD ERR" problem.

I was told that the 470 ohm resistor to the left of the Display fix was for an audio issue.

Has anyone fixed JUST the left resistor, and had the CD ERR problem go away? If so, then I will add that information to the site.

Happy holiday's!

 

ps you guys who are going to try to fix your CD ERR problems, let me know what you did, and what the result was.

Thanks!

 

i just removed the headunit. could not unplug the hose. tried very hard pulling it. but dare not harder, fearing it might be damaged. so just separate the whole ac from radio and cd.

now i'm trying to find out what i can do with my inoperative headunit. it's totally not working, except the led. no power, no radio, no cd playing.

have you ever heard about how to fix this?

 

im gonna just resolder both of those...if it doesnt work then i donno i guess ill just get a trunk cd changer

 

successfully took the stereo out from the car and disconnected the hoses and wires.
the hose ,which took a tug, said ABS. Anyway, bought a brand new ohmeter and soldering gun from radioshack. Noticed the wires that i disconnected...some of them were taped and one connecting to the ABS hose had foam on it. Im guessing something has been tampering with the wires before? Some of the screws were missing when taking the stereo out so im guessing it has been messed with before.
will dissassemble head unit tomorrow.

 

I'm assuming you mean I would need to solder the resistor to the left, that looks just like it?


I have the Bose unit dis-assembled and broken down, and I was ready to solder but when I flipped the board, I didnt notice where to solder, unless the place to solder isnt on the same point on the reverse then not too sure.

is this the set to solder for the CD Err resistor?



is this what was soldered.


I seriosuly hope this gets added to the stickies. help end the CD Errr disease

 

yes please clarify what needs to be soldered im in the process of taking off the brackets which are screwed in EXTREMELY TIGHT to the stereo

 

my inoperative headunit was fixed! thanks a lot to Madchef's excellent instruction and everybody's help!

just soldered as many resistors as i could, including the two talked about before. and this worked! my bose has been totally inoperative for many days. now i don't have to endure the silence.

 

you are so lucky

well I'll just resolder everything as well, cant hurt to resolder what is already soldered. I Hope it works.

did I mention the radio sucks?

 

can you give me tips on soldering? ive never done it before and i donno how much to apply or what resistors i should solder..considering i dont know of any resistors besides the 2 mentioned

 

I'm not the best at it but you'll see the flux or rosin what ever it is on the back there pretty much turn to liquid when the solder has heated it up, its movable then, but I'm just going to heat up and let it cool down and hope that fixes what ever problem.

 

you realize that solder comes with the guns right? i thought we were supposed to apply solder.

 

i didn't do much soldering before either. googled "how to solder" and read many articles before going to work.

just mention several things that might be helpful:
i think solder iron gun is not as convenient as solder iron pen. (but that's perhaps only personal preference.)
i bought 25w solder iron. i believe 25-30w is good for this job. don't use higher power ones (too hot for the job).
don't use too thick solder. there are thinner ones in radio shack.
i didn't really disconnect the resistors from the board. just melt the two ends joining the board, and add just a little bit solder to the joints. (be careful don't add too much. that will mess it up.)
you can recognize the resistors by the shape (black rectangular), and the letters printed beside it on the board (start with "R").
i didn't try to touch the resistors hidden under other components with no easy access. and just worked on that single board.

have a question for help.
when i finally reinstalled everything, i dropped a screw under the shift lever. could not find it and get it out with that little space to move fingers. is this something serious? or can i just leave it there for its whole life? if i want to get it out, is there any easy way? my maxima is automatic trans.

 

when taking mine out of the dash i noticed a screw missing from the bottom 2 that hold the center console in. I also dropped a screw in tehre today, im planning on getting a magnet and fishing around for it...if i cant find it then im just gonna see if i can buy some new ones. I didnt assue it was very serious, but i didnt look very hard at what it could get jammed in.

 

i got the soldering pen from radioshack by the wya and solder came with it so i think im good to go after al ittle practice on something.

 

its strange that the connections would just....disappear or disconnect. what would cause that?