Anyone changed their "Front Strut Bearing"??
Anyone changed their "Front Strut Bearing"??
My dads 95 makes a fast clicking noise AFTER turning the wheel at slow speeds. I suspect it is the front strut bearing. I have already ordered the part, and read this writeup about 100 times: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
I just wanna know, do I just take out the old bearing, and put in the new one?? Should I grease the new one with regular grease??
Also, is there anything special that I should look out for/replace while Im in there? I just changed the Axle last week, so I dont think this will be too hard. Also, I dont have a vice, so someone will probably hold the strut while tighten the spring compressor and remove the strut nut. Or should I tighten the springs while the strut is in the car??
Any/all tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
I just wanna know, do I just take out the old bearing, and put in the new one?? Should I grease the new one with regular grease??
Also, is there anything special that I should look out for/replace while Im in there? I just changed the Axle last week, so I dont think this will be too hard. Also, I dont have a vice, so someone will probably hold the strut while tighten the spring compressor and remove the strut nut. Or should I tighten the springs while the strut is in the car??
Any/all tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
I have the same concern since I don't have a vice either my question is if can loosen the center nut (just 1-2 threads) while the strut is still on the car so it might be easer later? any suggestions? I need to replace the strut mounts is it a good idea change the bearings same time?
-Thanks
-Thanks
Check your strut mount insulators for separation of the rubber from the steel.
The balljoints are really easy to check once you have removed the strut.
Also both lower control arm pivot bushings should be checked for excess play while you are down there.
The balljoints are really easy to check once you have removed the strut.
Also both lower control arm pivot bushings should be checked for excess play while you are down there.
don't loosen the nut while it's on the car. if you get the struts off of the car and don't have a way to hold them secure, take 'em to a shop with all of the replacement parts, ie: new struts, mounts, bearings, etc. it won't cost as much to switch out since they're off of the car. AND it's safer! those springs pack a lot of punch if they get loose!
Can someone give me the torque numbers for: the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the steering knuckle, the 3 nuts from the top of the strut, the 1 strut nut that is removed after compressring the spring.
And the axle nut is 173 right?
And the axle nut is 173 right?
Torque (these are for years 93-94, but they are close to 95+ so I suspect '90 would be similar also):
Strut to steering knuckle 116-123 ft-lbs
upper strut mount (3) 29-40 ft-lbs
piston rod nut 43-58 ft-lbs
axle to hub 174-231 ft-lbs
Strut to steering knuckle 116-123 ft-lbs
upper strut mount (3) 29-40 ft-lbs
piston rod nut 43-58 ft-lbs
axle to hub 174-231 ft-lbs
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Not saying you should do this, but i didnt have a vice, and i just put that sucker between my legs and tightened the spring compressers with a ratchet. It did help quite a bit when someone was holding it for me as well. but i got it done pretty easily. once you clamp on the spring comressor tool (the set i had at least) i felt pretty safe doing what i did. you'll know what you're comfortable doing after you get started i think. just give it a go. be safe. and good luck
Originally Posted by eturnl
Not saying you should do this, but i didnt have a vice, and i just put that sucker between my legs and tightened the spring compressers with a ratchet. It did help quite a bit when someone was holding it for me as well. but i got it done pretty easily. once you clamp on the spring comressor tool (the set i had at least) i felt pretty safe doing what i did. you'll know what you're comfortable doing after you get started i think. just give it a go. be safe. and good luck
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