looking for constant 12v source
the amp rating on the fuse is what I belive he means, if its a 7.5amp fuse dont go over that.
I remember reading a thread of someone who put a 15amp in for the cig and wired a microvison screen + p2 to it, had no probs. But I dont know about that stuff
I remember reading a thread of someone who put a 15amp in for the cig and wired a microvison screen + p2 to it, had no probs. But I dont know about that stuff
if you pull too much current (amps) through a wire not meant to handle it you can melt the wire...and the whole car. go to the ignition switch, you can get as much as you want from there, just make sure you fuse it between where you tapped it and the component your hooking up.
Originally Posted by 99se5spd
if you pull too much current (amps) through a wire not meant to handle it you can melt the wire...and the whole car. go to the ignition switch, you can get as much as you want from there, just make sure you fuse it between where you tapped it and the component your hooking up.
how would one go about doing that? not too electrically inclined
The cig lighter is not constant. It's on when the key is at acc. or on. I have a number of things I want to hardwire in, so I think I'm going to use a relay with the cig lighter as the switch. Don't forget to fuse the things you hardwire if you use this method.
if you look in the fuse box there are many open (unused circuits) that you can use. there are a few different methods to tap the power with,

I dont like these b/c they spread the contacts in the box and can cause fauly connections

these are better

I like these, but if you blow the fuse you need another one, I used to make these by hand, so they were free.
If you want you can go to the ignition harness and carefully remove some insulation and spread the wire apart (in half). Then insert the new wire into the hole, wrap the new wire around the old and tape securely. If you want to add a fuse block so you can install more circuits as necessary.

I dont like these b/c they spread the contacts in the box and can cause fauly connections

these are better

I like these, but if you blow the fuse you need another one, I used to make these by hand, so they were free.
If you want you can go to the ignition harness and carefully remove some insulation and spread the wire apart (in half). Then insert the new wire into the hole, wrap the new wire around the old and tape securely. If you want to add a fuse block so you can install more circuits as necessary.
all the things in the fuse box are on only when the car is on or acc correct? I have some neons wired to the remote wire of my radio. However, sometimes the neons constantly fade and start to blink. So i figure I need a new power source. Right now, I have a 7" monitor, a fm modulator, and a switch for fog lights wired to the ciggarette lighter. I need to get power for a relay for a power inverter and i want to find a new power source for the neons. (If anyone may know why they blink..let me know. May it be because i have subs?)
Originally Posted by hollaatchaboi
all the things in the fuse box are on only when the car is on or acc correct? I have some neons wired to the remote wire of my radio. However, sometimes the neons constantly fade and start to blink. So i figure I need a new power source. Right now, I have a 7" monitor, a fm modulator, and a switch for fog lights wired to the ciggarette lighter. I need to get power for a relay for a power inverter and i want to find a new power source for the neons. (If anyone may know why they blink..let me know. May it be because i have subs?)
constant 12v-white w/ red stripe and white w/ purple
ignition (the second "click" when the key is turned on, anything that is not audio or video should be connected to this)
-black w/ white or black w/ red
ACC. - red w/ yellow or red
the two wires for each one i listed is because they change colors at a plug so depending on what side of the plug you are on depends on the color of the wire. to tap the power get this:
there should be some at your local auto store, they are called t-taps, make sure you get the yellow ones (for larger wires) and crimp them on the wire anywhere using slip joint pliers, make sure the little latch clips, you can usually hear it when it locks together. than you can use a standard male connector to plug it into the t-tap, add a fuse and than you have power for whatever you are going to connect, you can safely run about 20-30 amps from here with no problem, anything larger than that (amp, foglights etc.) go straight to the battery. hope this helps you out.
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