While I was going to get an alignment after the strut replacement and rack and pinion replacement, the car was hitting harder than it otherwise would on the road. The ride was bumpier. In the way to get it aligned, I noticed that the OD light would come on and off then disappear. The problem went away after te alingment and camber adjustment. However, it was back again for a about 5 to 8 seconds while driving in the city. The car would downshift when this happened and would the OD light would blink. I'm going to check the ATF level. The mechanic said that this problem would not be related to the strut and rack install. Any tips? Thanks.

 

there is a big paragrah of info on blinking OD light in the faqs. Have you read that yet to see if that offers any help you didnt know?

 

Thanks. No codes were shown; so it was normal. Thank God!

 

The problem has become worse. The OD light not only comes on often when driving on city streets, but the RPM and speedometer needle go up and down like crazy and the RPM increaes and decreases. The car hesitates at this point. Then the problem goes away. I noticed this more when the bumpy roads. Anyone experienced this before? The mechanic told me earlier that it could be the RPM switch being loose and has nothing to do with the transmission. Is he correct?

 

The car is at the shop, and the mechanic states that it's an electrical problem. The transmission is telling the ECU to take OD off without the input of the driver. They say that some wires might be rubbing somewhere. The problem is locating the spot. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The mechanic said that the wiring from the transmission to the ECU wasn't routed properly. He said after he moved the wires around, the problem disappeared. However, it reared it ugly head once I got it back. He was going down a bumpy main streer and the needles start clicking against their stops, and the RPM dropped. Needless to say that since my foot was on the brake, the car cut off. I put it back in park to restart it. It started fine like normal, but the instant it went in drive, it cutt off again. I tried three more times, it finally worked properly.
Of course, this was very embarrassing My max has never cut off on me before. I tried going through rougher roads to recreate the problem, but it never occurred again in terms of RPMs dropping. I went home, tightened the ECU cable checked wiring under the center console; just tugged and moved wires around -- didn't know which wires the mechanic was talking about, but he said under the center console. I also changed the settings on my AGX front shocks from 2 to 1, the softest setting. This time I went on the roughest streets that had set off the light before. The light didn't come on. However, on one last bump that wasn't harsh but cuased a soft bounce, the light came on but didn't blink at all. Could worn motor mounts cause this problem? The situation seems to be getting better, so I'm not going to send it back to the mechanic until after my exams next Monday. Is this some new problem that no one has experienced before?