In recent weeks my car has been leaking anti-freeze. I refill it like every week and a half or 2.

Today while changing my oil I found where it was leaking from. Anti-freeze is dripping from front of the oil pan. It leaks only after the engine has started for a couple minutes, doesn't leak when engine is off.

I think it might be the water pump leaking on the oil pan which in turn leaks on the floor. Any suggestions anyone? Thanks in advance.

 

have no clue on that 1...but i know i need a new water pump b4 the summer comes....and of course antifrezze will not drip when the car is on because there is no power for teh fluid to flow...but good question...hope it works out with u.

 

bumb in the night

 

Check your hoses, especially the one from bottom of radiator to thermostat. It could be a leak from your thermostat. It could be your water pump, but It is not an easy thing to change and I am not sure if it would be leaking on the outside. I think it would leak out of the timing chain cover.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=73

 

Bump bump bump

 

Yes, it is the water pump, or more specifically, the water pump o-rings. Since the water pump is inside the block, it has two o-rings that seal the pump housing tightly in the block. Over time, the o-rings get hard and take a set. Then they won't follow the thermal expansion and contraction of the pump and block, and eventually they allow coolant to leak past them. Usually the coolant leaks when the engine is cold because clearances are greater then. The weep hole is at the upper oil pan joint right next to the alternator.

If you do the job yourself you can save money by just buying the o-rings (if they are available by themselves) but since the labor is pretty involved, it's more cost effective to replace the pump along with the o-rings if you are paying somebody to do it.

 

Thanx for the info Stephen.

 

Yeah, good advice. Should do as much as possible if it takes a lot of labor to get to something. Don't laugh, but the same goes for toilets........

If you have to replace the cone washer between the tank and the bowl due to a leak, since the brass bolts will almost be rusted by the time that happens, it makes sense to replace the flush valve, as well as the bolts, nuts, brass and rubber washers. I spent 3 hours doing it, 2 of which drilling out the rusted bolts. Milwaukee hammer drill time, baby.....without the hammer setting.