2k2 hid install w/ pictures and write up
02-28-2005, 03:42 PM
#1
2k2 hid install w/ pictures and write up
ok so do do this i had to totally rip apart 3 halogen 9004 bulbs. (seperated one of hte bae pieces then crushed it POS.) didn't hurt my feelings at all LOL. tools required dremmel, cut off disc, file and sanding wheel. the hole process took about 6 hours it sucked but was well worth it.
How To Rebase:
first you start by cuting off the the base of the 9004 bulbs then cut around where the rubber gromet is on the other side this will allow for the widest piece of the bulb (with 3 slots) to be by itself. once you have this piece by itself use the file to get both sides smooth and open up the hole in the middle a little more. this will make for more room to get the sanding wheel in there easier. Alot of ppl say to grind down the d2s part of the hid but that is metal and i didn't want to risk breaking it because hid are a lot more expensive then halogens. So i made the opening on the 9004 base big enough to fit onto the d2s base. actually it was a CH smaller so it fits snug and looks like it was a 9004 based bulb remember you have to repeat this step 2 times which is time consuming. After both cut outs were where i wanted them to be shape wise i had the fun task of alignment. this took about 30 minutes to get the bulb properly aligned in the stock housing. There is a piece on the bottom of the hid that runs parallel to the bulb that needs to be at the 6 o'clock position. once this was all aligned i use atv gasket maker around the base of the 2 bulbs to weather protect them. next i hooked everything up to insure 100% working state. I have a set of gs430 ballasts w/ bulbs for 210 if any one is interested and i will help install.
How To Wire:
this step is not for those that do not like cutting into there wiring. This is one of the easiest steps to do. First you cut the stock harness of the ballast exposing the positive and ground wires (red/+ black/-) easy enough. Next you have to cut the stock 9004 clip off from the wiring harness exposing 3 wires. you're only concernced with the black and the green. Green is low beam positive and black of course is the ground. Hook these up accordingly I suggest using solder to attach but wrapping and electrical tape work too. This is easy i told you. now you have a working hid set up. of course you need to wire everything back together and make sure the ignitor is installed.
How To Mount Ballast Out of Sight:
Ok since there is not much room in the engine compartment for hid ballasts and **** i decided to mount mine on the bumper support. To do this you will have to remove both headlights and corner lights. Right under each headlight there is the bumper support down far enough to mount a ballast. After picking a spot i drilled a hole into the support where the ballast was going to be mounted after holes were drilled on both sides i secured the ballasts. Of course none of the wiring can be attached right now. I used bolts and loc tite to secure the lil bastard down. Next step is connect all the wiring and feed it through where the corner light wiring goes. Next install the headlight. Finally reconnect all of the wiring harnesses again. and now you have hid's with no exposed ballasts.
ok here are pics of everything even night out put.
old out put (aftermarket kit)
New 2k2 set up
bulb and 9004 externals
9004 base snaps into place as if you are using a halogen bulb
all sealed with rtv gasket maker to keep it weatherproof
How To Rebase:
first you start by cuting off the the base of the 9004 bulbs then cut around where the rubber gromet is on the other side this will allow for the widest piece of the bulb (with 3 slots) to be by itself. once you have this piece by itself use the file to get both sides smooth and open up the hole in the middle a little more. this will make for more room to get the sanding wheel in there easier. Alot of ppl say to grind down the d2s part of the hid but that is metal and i didn't want to risk breaking it because hid are a lot more expensive then halogens. So i made the opening on the 9004 base big enough to fit onto the d2s base. actually it was a CH smaller so it fits snug and looks like it was a 9004 based bulb remember you have to repeat this step 2 times which is time consuming. After both cut outs were where i wanted them to be shape wise i had the fun task of alignment. this took about 30 minutes to get the bulb properly aligned in the stock housing. There is a piece on the bottom of the hid that runs parallel to the bulb that needs to be at the 6 o'clock position. once this was all aligned i use atv gasket maker around the base of the 2 bulbs to weather protect them. next i hooked everything up to insure 100% working state. I have a set of gs430 ballasts w/ bulbs for 210 if any one is interested and i will help install.
How To Wire:
this step is not for those that do not like cutting into there wiring. This is one of the easiest steps to do. First you cut the stock harness of the ballast exposing the positive and ground wires (red/+ black/-) easy enough. Next you have to cut the stock 9004 clip off from the wiring harness exposing 3 wires. you're only concernced with the black and the green. Green is low beam positive and black of course is the ground. Hook these up accordingly I suggest using solder to attach but wrapping and electrical tape work too. This is easy i told you. now you have a working hid set up. of course you need to wire everything back together and make sure the ignitor is installed.
How To Mount Ballast Out of Sight:
Ok since there is not much room in the engine compartment for hid ballasts and **** i decided to mount mine on the bumper support. To do this you will have to remove both headlights and corner lights. Right under each headlight there is the bumper support down far enough to mount a ballast. After picking a spot i drilled a hole into the support where the ballast was going to be mounted after holes were drilled on both sides i secured the ballasts. Of course none of the wiring can be attached right now. I used bolts and loc tite to secure the lil bastard down. Next step is connect all the wiring and feed it through where the corner light wiring goes. Next install the headlight. Finally reconnect all of the wiring harnesses again. and now you have hid's with no exposed ballasts.
ok here are pics of everything even night out put.
old out put (aftermarket kit)
New 2k2 set up
bulb and 9004 externals
9004 base snaps into place as if you are using a halogen bulb
all sealed with rtv gasket maker to keep it weatherproof
02-28-2005, 03:49 PM
#6
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You have absolutely no focus at all.
You have successfully made HID flood lights out of your headlights.
Please don't drive around like that, oncomming traffic is going to hate you.
You have successfully made HID flood lights out of your headlights.
Please don't drive around like that, oncomming traffic is going to hate you.
02-28-2005, 04:48 PM
#9
You can't aim it properly as the 9004 reflector is not designed for a hid bulb/light. You can only aim it down quite a bit so you don't **** off everyone else on the road. You seem handy. I'd suggest putting some hid projectors in there.
Originally Posted by azmaxipad
these are aim'd properly my last set up went everywhere these are defined.
02-28-2005, 06:16 PM
#11
Dude, the 9004 bulbs are made a certain length to reflect properly inside housing. If you are forward or backward my a fraction you will loose the functionality of the reflector housing. Thats why people are either using projectors or buying aftermarket HIDs that fit the application. And even then you have to add a shield to the bottom.
02-28-2005, 06:34 PM
#13
Originally Posted by azmaxipad
these are aim'd properly my last set up went everywhere these are defined.
02-28-2005, 07:11 PM
#15
i give u credit u did some good work, but man our housing really cant handle hids. i dont want to discourage your work but i really think you need to install a projector in there. trust me it will be well worth it, it will look way better, and you wont bother oncoming traffic. Its really not that much more money to buy the projectors, figure you could get E55s for roughly 150 or so. also make sure u look into bi-xenon so that you dont loose your high beam and u will pass inspection.
-Tom
-Tom
03-01-2005, 05:50 AM
#21
First of all let me commend your work. You are truly handy. Now that I've said that. Dude what are you doing?? You have absolutley no focus or beam pattern. What you should do is retro some projectors in there. Next thing that you did that was a HUGE NO NO is use your factory wiring harness to supply power to the ballast. It might not happen now but eventually you WILL burn up your harness. Even though HIDs draw less current and run at lower wattages than factory halogen, the current draw on startup is almost 3x the load that your factory harness was rated for. You need to either make or buy another harness an power the HID directly from your battery. Don't fret dude all this means is that you'll have to put out just a little more time and effort into getting things right! 
03-01-2005, 07:33 AM
#24
Originally Posted by queenambeach
First of all let me commend your work. You are truly handy. Now that I've said that. Dude what are you doing?? You have absolutley no focus or beam pattern. What you should do is retro some projectors in there. Next thing that you did that was a HUGE NO NO is use your factory wiring harness to supply power to the ballast. It might not happen now but eventually you WILL burn up your harness. Even though HIDs draw less current and run at lower wattages than factory halogen, the current draw on startup is almost 3x the load that your factory harness was rated for. You need to either make or buy another harness an power the HID directly from your battery. Don't fret dude all this means is that you'll have to put out just a little more time and effort into getting things right!
03-01-2005, 08:39 AM
#25
Originally Posted by deezo
I've had 2 sets of HIDs on my stock harness and haven't burned up anything.
03-01-2005, 08:46 AM
#27
Originally Posted by queenambeach
Not yet! It might not happen right away. Hell you might be able to ignite your burners 100 times or even 1000 times, but sooner or later your harness will get damaged. Genius if running those high wattage blue halogen bulbs will melt your harness, why do you think HIDs will spare your harness. HIDs draw way more current on start up than even those high wattage bulbs. Yea the current draw drops when the bulbs warm up, but eventually they WILL ware out your harness. Just get a harness and power them straight from the battery. A $50 harness is cheap insurance, rather than having to pay the high cost of repairing your factory wiring!!
ive had HID's for 2.5years now, and my stock headlight harness is still good.
03-01-2005, 09:01 AM
#29
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
bs...
ive had HID's for 2.5years now, and my stock headlight harness is still good.
ive had HID's for 2.5years now, and my stock headlight harness is still good.
03-01-2005, 09:04 AM
#30
Is the return lead (brown stick) facing downwards? Like when you screw in the bulb all the way is the return lead on the bottom? If not, you are going to run into problems. www.hidplanet.com
03-01-2005, 09:07 AM
#31
Originally Posted by queenambeach
People like you make me laugh. Just because your harness hasn't given out yet doesn't mean it won't. Dude check this out. It's simple laws of phsyics. You're running more current and heat through a wire than it's rated for. What do you think will happen over time? If you don't believe me, call Nissan!! I can't wait till your harness melts, then tell me if it's BS!
The initial charge to ignite the hid's however is more than 55 watts. I have had hid's on my 99 SE-L for over a year, and not a single problem. If they say plug and play, they are not lying.
03-01-2005, 09:25 AM
#33
Well actually, you are all wrong. Its not the stock harness you have to worry about, using the stock harness with HID 35watt ballasts does reduce the life of both the bulb and the ballast. It cannot pull the amount of power needed through the stock harness during powerup, which is why EVERYONE doing a projector retrofit should wire in an upgraded harness. You wont see anything right away, mainly because its just reducing the life, so the bulbs and ballasts wont last as long.
03-01-2005, 09:33 AM
#34
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Uh people like YOU make me laugh. HID's run on 35 watts of power. Stock halogens run on 55 watts...
The initial charge to ignite the hid's however is more than 55 watts. I have had hid's on my 99 SE-L for over a year, and not a single problem. If they say plug and play, they are not lying.
The initial charge to ignite the hid's however is more than 55 watts. I have had hid's on my 99 SE-L for over a year, and not a single problem. If they say plug and play, they are not lying.
03-01-2005, 09:36 AM
#35
Originally Posted by BlueC
Well actually, you are all wrong. Its not the stock harness you have to worry about, using the stock harness with HID 35watt ballasts does reduce the life of both the bulb and the ballast. It cannot pull the amount of power needed through the stock harness during powerup, which is why EVERYONE doing a projector retrofit should wire in an upgraded harness. You wont see anything right away, mainly because its just reducing the life, so the bulbs and ballasts wont last as long.
03-01-2005, 09:56 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
You have absolutely no focus at all.
You have successfully made HID flood lights out of your headlights.
Please don't drive around like that, oncomming traffic is going to hate you.
You have successfully made HID flood lights out of your headlights.
Please don't drive around like that, oncomming traffic is going to hate you.
floodlights!!
LMAOAnt
03-01-2005, 10:24 AM
#38
planning on upgrading the harness in the next couple of weeks. and the brown piece you speak of is facing downward at the 6 o'clock position i have been getting help from the guys on hidforum.com how many ppl on the org run hid's with no projectors quite a few. i just posted to show the work.
03-01-2005, 10:25 AM
#39
Originally Posted by queenambeach
Dude on warmup HIDs can draw up to 3 times the amount of current and heat that is recommended for normal use. And if you have a hot relight of the burners, they'll draw even more. Buying or making a wiring harness is cheap insurance that will absolutely no chance of toasting your OE harness.
