yep.


Great, two months AND $400 later, this thread pops up
Good work nonetheless...

 

can u do a write up on the complete process of this and post it up? im gonna do this tomorrow. what polish did u use... where did u get it... how to take apart the coil etc. etc. etc... Congrats bro.... i really hope this will work on my car.

 

Its so easy that it really doesn't need a write up!
1. remove coils. (One step less than removing your plugs)
2. twist the rubber boot and carefully pull it apart. (You will separate the tube that contains the coil spring)
3. Use some Wrights metal polish or Brasso (available at a hardware store or even a supermarket)with a q tip and clean the round metal connection reccessed in the coil pack. It's about in inch in. Work the polish until the contact is shiny.
4. Use a moist q tip with some alcohol to clean any residue left by the polish.
5. Close the coil pack back up and reinstall.

 

Lalalalala. Hanshins don't fail, the new and redesigned for the 1999 model year Hanshins fail. I'm also wondering whether they actually redesigned them or whether it's the cars themselves that cause the coils to go. Every year max come with Hanshin plugs, 1995-199, and only the '99 have the problem.

 

Ok, so what year car did my Mitsu coils come off of? I got them used as part of a large package, so I have no idea.
Is there any cleaning that can be done to these Mitsu coils? It sounds like I could polish the piece inside the spring, but I can't seem to get the boot off.

 

The mitsu coils are just when Nissan switched to after they realized 99s have so many problems. Instead of having Hanshin coils for sale by dealers they switched to Mitsubishi.

 

Ahh, ok. Thanks.
So is there any cleaning that could be done to the Mitsu coils?

 

Nope. My dad's '95 has all Mitsubishi coils. Originals, BTW.

 

I'm gonna go check mine right now.

 

Ok then, 95s have mitsus, and other have hanshin. I've done plugs on a early 96, late 96, 97, 98, 99, and a 2k1. All had hanshin, not sure about the 2k1 though.

 

gawd, my friend didnt give me his cam this weekend!!! Sorry you guys have to wait a bit longer for my write up... Im gonna beat him up a later today

 

I have a hard time bleieving you could beat anyone up.

 

Having read through all the posts in this thread I have one very important thing to add that nobody has yet mentioned.

If the Hanshin's are failing because they're not sealed right and cleaning them out will fix the misfiring then why don't you SEAL them up when you put them back together thereby eliminating the poor seal that allows moisture and dirt to seep through?!

SEAL THEM UP BEFORE YOU PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER! Use silicone or something, anything. Save yourself the trouble in the future of having to clean them out again and again.

 

 

Ya know, I was thinking about that, But I was not sure what would be able to take the heat in the block, What do you sugesst to seal them with?

 

Maybe RTV gasket sealant would work... try walking down the sealant isle at your local Home Depot and seeing if they have something that might be made for high temps. Hell, even grease would work just as well as most... and you could definitely find a high temp (probably teflon based) grease at your local auto parts store. All you need is a barrier that will stay where you put it, something that won't break down.

 

damn... just waiting for that darn write up.... i was about to ask that same question about sealing the coils...u beat me to it.. i know ive seen black silicone being used on engine blocks before to seal air and exhaust manifold leaks and it holds up to the heat 100% no probs. ill ask my mechanic what the exact name of the product he used was.

 

I would say di-electric grease they sell for for iginition systems would be the trick to sealing them up. I would put some on the contact of the coil and then on both ends of the spring to keep the crap out.

 

Does anyone happen to have a Hanshin from the rear bank that is defective. I went to change My plugs this weekend and found a spark plug cavity full of oil. The oil ruined the rubber. I could use another long tube seeings how they come apart...

I also posted this in the classified, but thought there was alot of attention here just on this subject...

 

I guess you could have one of mine if you want.

Guys, I just replaced my Hanshins with Mitsubishis and the results are good. Read this thread

 

95maxrider,

Yea, let me know what you want for it. Need to ship to CT 06331.

Thanks

 

Shut up dave...
Im gonna get it tommorow hopefully, if not, one of you guys wanna let me borrow yours? digi cam that is

 

My 95 had hanshins. I am really not sure when the Mitsubishi coils came OEM.

 

I started on the write up yesterday, but I had some more restoring to do upstairs(trying to rent out the top floor helpin ma dad out) should be done some time today, but seeing as how im gonna go to sleep now, I should be awake round 2 then I will finish it up.

 

high temp rtv (red in color)

 

I was thinking of a whole new way to get the connection accross guys, could be a little risky, but ill do anything for that better spark.

 

any updates coming up?

 

ninos, you dead?

 

No, i want to be completley sure that they dont start to fail,

 

I have the write up all done, but its not good enouph for you guys, I need more pics

 

ive got stock coil packs i think, im pretty sure..
can i still clean them?

 

yeah you can, I have a beta version of the write up
I need a site to host it on though

 

I'll host ---> jatan1986(at)yahoo.com

 

...whats going on

 

aight im gonna send it to you right now jatan. But its only the Beta vers

 

http://www.jatan.net/CoilsBeta1.doc

 

I was wrong. I thought I saw hanshins when I changed my spark plugs last time, but maybe I was imagining things. My 95 has Mitsubishis.

 

so the rubber groment on top hold the coil together? So how exactly does the spring stay in place? that is teh only part getting me

 

They pull apart quite easily. There is a lip at the bottom of the coil pack body and the rubber connector will hold it in place.

An alternative is to take a dremel with a small round bit and slight grind away the layer. Put electrolite connection lube on a q-tip and rub it on the contact after to seal it.

 

Colder heat range plugs do not really have a colder spark, per se. They are designed to increase heat flow from the spark plug tip to the cylinder head, resulting in lower combustion chamber temperatures in order to decrease the possibility of detonation.