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HOWTO: Ignition switch LED swap

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Old 03-25-2005 | 07:41 PM
  #41  
Black Maxima
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Originally Posted by 2 Da Max
dam sounds easy maybe i should give it a try.
I said that before I tried it and screwed it up. But, it really isn't that hard. I just wasn't thinking...
Old 03-27-2005 | 04:29 PM
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A known good ground would usually be a bolt going into the chassis, preferably one on the steering column since it's close. Often, you can insert teh key into the ignition and use it, only ours have the plastic covering. I can't find the keyring on my wiring diagrams right now, but if you need, I can take a look at mine and find out which is hot and which is not. Let me know if you do.
Old 03-27-2005 | 05:10 PM
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I did look at the wires. I found one plugs into the back of the steering column, but I don't know where the other wire goes to.

Wetballoon, yea could you please help me out. I want to get this done. Thanks.
Old 03-27-2005 | 05:55 PM
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I'll tear mine apart tomorrow and see what I can see. it's raining here now and I've been drinking. I'll let you know what I find.
Old 03-27-2005 | 05:58 PM
  #45  
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Thank you.
Old 03-27-2005 | 07:42 PM
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hey sry 2 be stupid but does it matter what kind of resistor?what side it is soldered 2? or is there even a + - on leds thanks
Old 03-27-2005 | 09:40 PM
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got somthing to do tomorrow now, besides the beach...
Old 03-28-2005 | 09:15 AM
  #48  
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Have you yet found the connector where the two green wires meets the blue and red wires (if yours are different colors, bear with me for I am mildly colorblind and can't really get a good look at them). I assume you have but want to be sure that we are in the same place. I am testing my wires at that connector. I grounded my meter to the unpainted metal next to the steering column. I have 12.5 volts coming to both wires when the keyring light is off. That is, after I lock the doors with the factory remote. When I unlock the door (this is when the light would normally come on) the blue wire loses voltage. I checked the resistance of the blue wire to my ground at this point and found it to be around 200 ohms. I also found this wiring diagram for the 93-94 Max which should be close to ours. I highlighted the wires in question. I have not yet reassembled my dash if you need me to check anything else.
Old 03-28-2005 | 12:22 PM
  #49  
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Hello, thank you for all your help so far! I did see the blue and red wires that connect to the green ones. I guess I'm going to try to see how many volts I have comming out of the wires. Is that the next step I should take?
Old 03-28-2005 | 12:26 PM
  #50  
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hey sry 2 be stupid but does it matter what kind of resistor?what side it is soldered 2? or is there even a + - on leds thanks
Yes, it does matter what resistor. The resistors supplied with the LED you can get off eBay are fine. LEDs do have a positive and a negative. The longer prong is positive. The positive prong is connected to the smaller piece inside of the LED bulb. The negative prong is shorter and is connected to the bigger piece inside the LED bulb. The resistor has to be soldered on to the Positive (+) LED prong. It doesn't matter what end of the resistor prong.
Old 03-28-2005 | 12:37 PM
  #51  
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That's where I would go, remember to check when the light should be on and when it should be off. The blue one should lose voltage when you unlock the door.
Old 03-28-2005 | 12:52 PM
  #52  
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Ok, I'll get back to you on that.
Old 03-28-2005 | 01:31 PM
  #53  
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Okay, I check the voltage. I had my multimeter black wire on some bare metal on the steering column and the red wire stuffed into the plug. I first tried with the car locked, I got none to about .015 volts from the blue wire and then the same with the red wire. Same thing happend with the car unlocked and driver's door open.

If I understand correctly, the middle interior dome light is connected some how to the key ring light. The slider is placed to the middle and when I open my door it doesn't turn on.

So Wetballoon, what should I do next? Thanks...
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:00 PM
  #54  
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Check fuse 26, under dash middle row, top fuse. It is supposed to be a 7.5 amp. If it looks good, check the resistance with your multimeter.
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:06 PM
  #55  
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Yup, checked fuse 26. The metal inside of it isn't broken, so it looks good. How would I go about checking the resistance?
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:15 PM
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Set you multimeter to the ohms setting, you may have to switch the leads. Touch the probes to the fuse contacts and make sure ther is continuity between the contacts. If your meter has an audio setting you can use that and just listen for the tone. For a point of reference, touch the probes together and the fuse should be about the same.
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:31 PM
  #57  
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The multimeter ohms setting is the one with like the upside down U? I put it on that and the display says 0.f. So, then I have to stick the red and black wires into the fuse slot holes? What is it supposed to read? I'm getting lost on this step.
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:41 PM
  #58  
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Yse, the upside down U is the Ohm setting, make sure that you have your probes plugged into the right holes in the meter, Usually there is a common for the black but the red sometimes has to be switched. 0.f sounds like an open circuit, or break, try a new fuse. I have 27 ohms across my fuse. sometimes, you can't see the problem just by looking. Don't check resistance across the slots in the fuse box, It, should be open. However, one of the contacts should read 12 volts, and the other would be a ground. I'm going to be gone for a couple hours, I'll check up on you when I get home.
Old 03-28-2005 | 02:46 PM
  #59  
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FYI: a #74 LED bulb will just plug in

however i did it the same way a few years ago before they came out with #74 LEDs and it still works
Old 03-28-2005 | 03:07 PM
  #60  
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Ok, I checked the continuity of the fuse itself. I got like .002 and that's the same as when I touched the probes together. I know what you are saying about switching the probe inputs. Mine are built into the multimeter. I don't know what to do now, thanks for staying with me.
Old 03-28-2005 | 05:09 PM
  #61  
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Are you still with me? If so, do you have voltage at one of the fuse terminals?
Old 03-28-2005 | 06:04 PM
  #62  
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Yes, I do have voltage at the fuse terminal. 12.4V to be exact.

I looked at a diagram of the whole thing in a .pdf manual. I saw a BCM, and wondering if that thing needs to be replaced? If I burnt that out or something. I hope not.
Old 03-28-2005 | 06:19 PM
  #63  
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I was thinking that you may have a damaged BCM. You might take it to the dealer for a diagnosis. I think they have a computer that can check the system. I am running out of ideas on this end.
Old 03-28-2005 | 06:44 PM
  #64  
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I was reading that they do have a computer that can scan the system. I'm do for an oil change and would like to get an alignment, so I could possible get that done too.

Thank you for all the help Wetballoon!

Oh, by the way, do you happen to know where the BCM is located?
Old 03-29-2005 | 11:21 AM
  #65  
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I think it's under the dash. There are more than one if I understand correctly. The one in question should be in the lower waterfall area. If you PM me an email address, I will send you the Electrical part of the FSM. There are some diagnosis methods that may be of help.
Old 03-29-2005 | 12:39 PM
  #66  
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Hi, I sent you a PM.
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