here's guy in FL with 6 of them in stock
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V


Nick.

 

A local shop said they would do it for 50bucks. Now I da no what to do

 

nick - did you use the bushings that came with the Ebay LCAs, or did you replace them with ES (or other) bushings?

kevlo - are you going to replace the bushings with ES bushings when you replace the ball-joints?

 

Yes I am.

 

Any tips on how thats done... don't the old bushings need to be pressed out or something? I thought the LCA bushings were a pain in the a__ to do... in nicks pic, it looks like the bushing is just falling off.

Oh ya - what did the shop quote you $50 for? replacing the inner tie-rod ends?

 

Ya $50 to replace those, while the car is in the air, I will ask if I can do everything else too.

They need to be burned out, thas why I got the pic of hte propane torch.

 

did balljoints with autozone press tonight, no problems at all. dunno why others were complaining.

the axle must be removed to access the balljoint, but the pressing part went smoothly. big improvement in "pothole stability" (bump steer). highly recommended...

 

The stuff in this thread should be in the How to's sticky..esp nick's tie rod replacement writeup. I just replaced both tie rods and had the control arm bushings remade. The old tie rods would just drop down without resistance when removed from the steering knuckle but the new ones stay suspended. While working on those I noticed that the stabilizer bar links to control arms were very bad and no one seemed to mention replacing those. If you're doing steering and suspension work check those links....sure to be a source of suspension noise and poor handling.

 

I wanted to do this today, i went to 5 different auto part stores and couldn't find an inner tie rod tool. anyone know if a crowfoot tool that attaches to a 3/8" ratchet work? i want to do this tomorrow morning.

 

any ideas?

 

bump.......

 

How was steering rack tension adjusted? Also, where did you get steering rack bushings from? Thank you....

 

I found some LCAs on Ebay for about $75 each.
How can they be so inexpensive when the factory part costs around $200.
Are they refurbished/repainted or new?

 

those are brand new parts ( made in Taiwan) , they come with brand new bushings and balljoints. Fit and finsh is perfect and i highly recommend them.

Nick.

 

A lot of times the reason a part is so much cheaper is because of lower quality materials. You get what you pay for. But it is also true that the dealer usually adds a huge markup to oem parts.

 

Does anyone have a source for Lower Control Arms with grease fittings in the new ball joints?? This tread mentions new LCA's for $70 but they are "lifetime" sealed... I would prefer zerk fitting and would like to just replace LCA without having to get new ball joints pressed in. Also where is the best (least $$) for new tie rod ends...same source as above has them for about $30. Any real difference in make or just go for cheapest?? Thanks, Doug

 

guys maybe you can help me..... i just replaced my strust ball joints and swaybar links and the car drives almost the same as it did before... if i go over bumps the ride is extremely harsh... and the steering wheel vibrates and shakes up and down.... im seriously stumped... one thing i have noticed is that the control arm bushings that connect to the body look pretty bad..

 

what rim/tire/suspension set up you are riding on? , are your struts in good shape?

have you had your car aligned after the work was done?


Need more info and details here.....


Nick.

 

yo Nick i did my right side already, but im having trouble on my leftside, the castle nut doesnt want to come off. it keeps spinnig. im guessing its stripped?

 

its not stripped, remember it is a balljoint and unless you pre-load it , it will spin.
We've had the same problem with njmodi's car, here is what you do: get a big C-clamp and place the bottom part of it under the LCA and top portion of it on lower part of steering knuckle ( lip through which the balljoint goes through) and tighten up the c-clamp , once you prelaod the balljoint you should be able to loosen up the castle nut.

if this fails , you'll nedd to whip out a hacksaw and start hacking !!!!


Nick.

 

so clamp the ball joint to the lower control arm?

 

yes, this will seat the tapered portion of the balljoint into the steering knuckle and you should be able to break the nut loose. Soak it with PB blaster and remove your cv-axle in order go gain better access to the balljjoint ( ie:room for breaker bar)

Nick.

 

im using an impact gun, i mean the castle nut is moving but its not comming off, and the clamp keeps falling off the ball joint....hhm

 

just get a grinder and cut the bastard off completely.. thats what i had to do

 

Post #13 from the first page of this thread....

 

thanks nick i just got it, i used a tie rod fork.

thanks for the great write up though!!
so far i changed tie rods
tie rod ends
stabalizer links
and lcas

 

finally about to order both lca, inner and outter ties rods, and sway bar links.. curious to see how much of a difference itll make,,,

 

Hello everyone,
This is a good thread... I too have a severe kind of vibrations at 60-80mph in the steering whell, seat, gas pedal, and etc. I just recently replaced the brake rotors on the front and the driver side axle. The vibrations didn't improve after these changes.

I was wondering if there is anyway to know where the problem could be by lifting the tires on the front. I tried this but I don't see any abnormal movement, everything seems to be stiff. I don't see any deterioation in any of the ball joints or the linkages. Is there suppose to be any visble signs to can atribute to the vibration.

I suspect the tires and I just recently had them balanced and rotated. The vibrations still exists. I am thinking that possibly the tires are bad but I feel some sloppyness in the steering wheel. So I don't know if it is the tires or in the LCA.

Thanks for any feedback.

VJ

 

Humm… well you did the obvious with the balancing, I had a similar problem a couple months back and the rotors turned out to be my problem… but you have that covered as well… this is a little far fetched but it could be a slightly warped axel? Have you had the car sitting for a long period of time? I mean over a month without movement? I have been told more then once that over an extended period of time if a car is parked without being lifted the weight of the car will ever so slightly warp the axel?

This is a real guess hopefully someone has a better idea for you but if not this may be a start?

-aPeG

 

I have a '95 SE with 136K and will soon have the axels replaced due to CV joints wearing out. The car has had the signs of the axels going, when starting/stopping, it makes a hum vibration, and when going over bumps at slow speeds, I hear a little clunk.

So my question is if the mechanic is already working on the axels, would it be worthwhile to do this extra LCA and inner tie rod replacement at the same time?

My steering has a little play that if I would love to get rid of.

Thanks for your advice, I enjoyed learning about how you got your car's handling to be like new.

 

yes, it would make perfect sense to get it all done at the same time and than have the car aligned back to specs, your stock bushings must be shot with that milage,

yes get it done at once, also replace your sway bar and endlink bushings

Nick.

 

NOt trying to Jack threads or anything but.... I have very characteristics. So I decided to order all the parts you noted on ebay....but heres the deal. My car also hits terrible hardwhen going over bumps. I know for a fact, my rears are completely shot, so I ordered some oem replacements. But as for the front...I replaced the front struts about 5 mos ago and Im thinking they're on their way out(not sure)
Whwnever Im crusing, my car doesnt feel bad at all,just when I go over bumps. Will replacing all those parts(lca,inner/outer tie rods...) completely fix my problem?... Also my car squeaks like a ***** when i push down on th efront end/ go over bumps

 

Bad strut bearing or mount?

 

I am in the process of replacing my LCA bushings and I cut the ball joint boot trying to separate the LCA from the spindle with one of those fork tools. I did not notice any noises or steering problems beforehand, although I did feel that the ride was rougher than it should be.

My question is, should I really just replace the ball joint now, or how long will it last with a small tear in the seal?

I'm thinking of buying the new ball joints off eBay for $25 and then maybe the outer tie rod ends and/or sway bar links from the same seller to save on shipping. Again, I noticed no real problems but I have 85K miles so maybe I should replace some of these while I'm working on it. What should I look for in my outer tie rod ends and sway bar links in terms of symptoms of badness? The inner tie rods seems like too much of a pain to bother with now. Thanks for any help.

 

Do the whole thing now. As for the tear in the ball joint it is NOT COOL to have that.

 

you probaably wont notice anything wrong with the parts just by looking at them. you will definately feel the differnce after its all installed though..

on another note, im curious to know if anyone else that has ordered lca's from world suspension had any fittment issues.. the ones i recieved, the part of the control arm closest to the backing plate, was actually hitting the backing plate and pushing it against the rotor.. the edge of the lca needed to be bent with a hammer to avoid this from happening.

 

i have some kind of clicking noise when i turn the steering wheel, what can that be?

 

euser, that could be bad strut mounting bearings: (http://www.kcmaximas.org/tech/suspen.../061002-10.jpg)

If I have 85K, is it likely that the outer tie rod ends and/or sway bar endlinks specifically are in need of replacement? Or anything else? As I said, I want to replace what I most need replaced now while I've got the car apart. But I don't have the money for a full replacement of the front suspension, axle, and steering.

 

Your swaybar bushings, and endlink bushings are most likely in need of replacement (based on age/mileage of the car) - so definitely do that.

I would replace the inner and outer tie-rod ends as well.

You can try seller pedro-r on ebay or PM "internetautomar" (not a typo). Brian (internetautomar) has at least as good prices and excellent service. He's always hanging around the 3rd gen forums - I bought everything (LCAs, tie rod ends, etc.) off him.

 

I am trying to find LCA's on Emotors and can't find a thing. Anybody have the link???