Ask for combined shipping quote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8001575886
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8002013594

 

Thanks. I replaced the bushings months ago, I was asking about the actual stabilizer end links themselves.

$24 + shipping on eBay.

 

If you can afford the extra 40 bucks I would recommend it. Whe I replaced my LCAs, I had to replace one end-link because we couldn't get it off the old LCA - the bolt would just spin and spin because of the ball-joint. I wish I had known how bad a shape mine were in to start off with, I would have just bought new ones right from the get-go.

 

Sup to all. I got new control arm bushings and started to remove things. i noticed there was grease everywhere around the control arm. Then i look and the ball joint is torn, so I removed the pin and started to loosen the nut. but the whole thing turns with the nut!!! anyone kno what i can do to resolve this?, i cant use pliers or anything to hold it from the bottom from spinning cuz the boot is in the way. i just put everything back together and idnt change anything. should i get only the balljoint from ebay or the whole control arm?!

 

The balljoint and the control arm are a one piece deal.

 

Thank god for the org, because I was going crazy aligning my car and having the same results with the sloppy steering. I should have done (LCA,Inner tie rods) this when I did my halfshafts but I was too lazy.

 

No, they are two separate pieces. You can buy high-quality aftermarket ball joints. I did and pressed them in myself, although unless you have access to a ball-joint press you will have to pay $20-$30 to rent one. It's not hard but it takes a little time to get them to go in right. It's certainly easiest to spend the extra money on eBay control arms as Nick did. They are really cheap and of high quality.

 

That is true but normally they come already pressed together as "one piece". But your are right, you can get then separate and pressed them yourself.

 

Right, for the 4th generation, Nissan does not sell the ball joint separately.

 

The thing is, i already have control arm bushings(polyurithane) i got from cattman, thats what i was trynna install wen i found this. i messaged an ebay seller about the arm and he told me that they are rubber. Should i just get the whole arm even though it comes with rubber and sell my poly bushings? or should i attempt to press the joint out and install the bushings on my arms.?

 

I would go with the new control arm and rubber bushings to save you time (if you don't mind spending the extra money). My rubber bushings were in fine shape (85K miles) and I really haven't noticed any difference with the polyurethane bushings.

 

well i wanted to save up a lil money for nitrous lol. is doing the pressing of the ball joint that hard of a job?

 

No, it's easy (and free) if you rent the Autozone tool. Changing bushings on stock arms is a ***** though.

Dave

 

Well some of us don't have Autozones and made tons of phone calls before determining that the only option was renting it for a fee.... I hate our sh!tty auto parts stores here. But yes, the job is straightforward.

 

I also bought the same press set from Harbor Freight for like $25 - that might be cheaper than renting it.

Dave

 

well our autozone here has a ball joint press. that is pretty much like a big C clamp. is that the correct tool needed?
and also. is this the correct ball joints? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

 

The photo in that auction is not of the right part - email the seller to make sure they'll send a balljoint for a Maxima.

The Autozone tool is basically a big C-clamp, yes. It worked for me.

Dave

 

Tried that too but the local Harbor Freight store did not stock a ball-joint press!

It does look like a big C-clamp, but when you have it in front of you you'll see that it's very hefty and has three different sized tube pieces, and the top and bottom of the clamp have special shapes to fit the tubes. It would be extremely difficult if not impossible to do the job without this special tool.

 

yea i just emaild him. and he said told me, that was a generic picture that he guarantee's i will receive the correct part for my car.

 

....and decided to ask some questions related to LCA.

It seems that my CV boot is torn and hence I need to get a new axle (or a CV boot kit). Then I thought about servicing the LCA and its bushings as well. However, it seems that these E-Bay LCA don't last long. Is this a good idea to do?

Thus, will I be better off with Nissan's? Allnissanparts.net list the LCA for about $150 but I am wondering if anybody knows whether it comes complete with the bushings and ball joints (I might have to call them on this one).

 

Yes, the nissan lower control arm has the new bushings and balljoint attached.

I would not recommend the urethane bushings since they don't fit snugly on mine and make popping sounds. Plus theyr'e a bugger to install since the original bushings are so hard to remove. I would not recommend an eBay control arm since some of them are inferior quality. If you can get a good quality aftermarket control arm I'm not sure you'd save much over OEM.

If I had to do it all again, I'd buy new Nissan control arms if either a balljoint was failed. Otherwise, the cost/trouble isn't worth it.

Dave

 

Dave,

Thanks for the reply. I just saw JSutter's Ebay LCA pic in another thread and it was not pretty. I am taking off the wheel tonite and see it for myself. I am sure the car could use new bushings (and new LCA as well, I suppose) but I have been getting crazy quotes here in Milwaukee (5 hours to do the axle and LCA), which I thought is more like a 3.5-4 hour job max for an experienced mechanic. Worse yet, most places don't want to install a customer part, which I found to be pretty weird.

 

That's always an issue for me - they have good reason to not screw around with other parts since they never know if it's eBay junk that will end up costing them time/money. For example, a junk balljoint that damages the knuckle on installation. Then they get *****ed at when the balljoint and knuckle go into the trash.

But then again, many of them mark up the parts price over retail (they get charged a LOT less than that) and pocket the difference. Then they make it a policy to not use outside parts and they claim it's for quality purposes. But they mark up so much it's obviously just price gouging.

I figure if they refuse to install a Nissan OEM part in the packaging, they're just price gouging. There should be some competent shops willing to at least use new Nissan parts.

Dave

 

Worldpartsexpress.com is the cheapest Nissan OEM parts store I've found, might be worth comparing.

Ardika, if you're replacing the complete LCA as a unit, it's really a pretty easy job. Take off some big bolts (will need a breaker bar) and not much else to it.

 

My Nissan dealership replaced the left front swing arm assembly and both tie rods. This caused steering wheel shimmy at speeds over 50mph.

I know if I go back to them they will suggest replacing the left fron swing arm assembly but they already ripped me off $500 to replace the other swing arm.

 

i dont know what a swing arm is..but did you have your front end aligned?

 

Think he means control arm....

but yea, most likely needs to be aligned if they change ur 'control arms' and your tie rods. They know you need an alignment their just jerks