Help with Spongy Brakes
03-28-2005, 01:03 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 253
Help with Spongy Brakes
Heres some backround info...I replaced the pads on both front and rear. As well as replaced the calipers on the rear brakes. The brakes were not spongy before all of this. I just neeeded to replace all the pads and the rear caliper's piston wasnt really smooth so i replaced them.
After the job I bleeded the system and until the pedal was firm. Heres the problem. I have to hit the pedal pretty hard to slow down..and the brake performance seems to suck. What could be the problem? Do the pads need to be broken in?
After the job I bleeded the system and until the pedal was firm. Heres the problem. I have to hit the pedal pretty hard to slow down..and the brake performance seems to suck. What could be the problem? Do the pads need to be broken in?
03-28-2005, 01:14 PM
#2
i don't think you bleed your brades good enough. especially after you change a whole caliper, you definitely need to make sure the whole system was well bled.
also, when you are bleeding your brakes, you need to make sure the reservoir level doesn't drop below the minimum line. going too low on that thing will allow air go enter from the reservoir side.
good luck
also, when you are bleeding your brakes, you need to make sure the reservoir level doesn't drop below the minimum line. going too low on that thing will allow air go enter from the reservoir side.
good luck
03-28-2005, 01:18 PM
#4
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The title to this thread says "help with spongy brakes", yet your post indicates you have a firm pedal with a lack of stopping power. They are two completely different problems to addess.
If your pedal is spongy you still have air in the system so bleed your brakes again.
If you have a firm pedal but a lack of grip there are two possibilities.
1) You do have to let the pads break in. There is a procedure with involves agressive slow downs all seperated by a cooling off period. The rapid heat up and cool down cycles help break in your new pads. Not resurfacing your rotors when you did your brakes is also a factor and will hinder the pads initial performance.
2) Pad compound - If you installed a high performance pad which resists brake fade under extream conditions, chances are your not going to like them for every day driving. They have much less initial bite then a Ceramic or Semi Metalic pad.
What compound and brand of pad did you install?
If your pedal is spongy you still have air in the system so bleed your brakes again.
If you have a firm pedal but a lack of grip there are two possibilities.
1) You do have to let the pads break in. There is a procedure with involves agressive slow downs all seperated by a cooling off period. The rapid heat up and cool down cycles help break in your new pads. Not resurfacing your rotors when you did your brakes is also a factor and will hinder the pads initial performance.
2) Pad compound - If you installed a high performance pad which resists brake fade under extream conditions, chances are your not going to like them for every day driving. They have much less initial bite then a Ceramic or Semi Metalic pad.
What compound and brand of pad did you install?
03-28-2005, 01:20 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 253
Originally Posted by cyu1
i don't think you bleed your brades good enough. especially after you change a whole caliper, you definitely need to make sure the whole system was well bled.
also, when you are bleeding your brakes, you need to make sure the reservoir level doesn't drop below the minimum line. going too low on that thing will allow air go enter from the reservoir side.
good luck
also, when you are bleeding your brakes, you need to make sure the reservoir level doesn't drop below the minimum line. going too low on that thing will allow air go enter from the reservoir side.
good luck
03-28-2005, 01:26 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 253
Yeah im sorry...The pedal does seem a little spongy still..but the main issue is the performance. ......I installed ProStop Ceramic pads from Pepboys. I did not resurface the rotors. Is it just a matter of breaking them in with the tecnique u described?
03-28-2005, 01:45 PM
#8
Try the break in proceedure. I used this one.
Try to use your pads as little as possible before this proceedure is started.
Accelorate to 60mph.
Apply the brakes firmly until 10mph is reached, but do not lock up the tires. The idea is to heat up your pads and rotors.
Accelorate back to 60mph.
Do this 10 times.
Your pads should feel like they are fading now.
Then allow the braking system to cool for about 2 or 3 minutes.
Repeat this proceedure if your pads did not feel like they are fading after the 10th time.
Try to use your pads as little as possible before this proceedure is started.
Accelorate to 60mph.
Apply the brakes firmly until 10mph is reached, but do not lock up the tires. The idea is to heat up your pads and rotors.
Accelorate back to 60mph.
Do this 10 times.
Your pads should feel like they are fading now.
Then allow the braking system to cool for about 2 or 3 minutes.
Repeat this proceedure if your pads did not feel like they are fading after the 10th time.
03-28-2005, 05:53 PM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mt. Sinai NY
Posts: 147
Pro Stop Pep Boys
I put the pro stop ceramic in my daughters maxima, I wasn't impressed, they dusted up the rims like regular pads and lasted about 14k miles. The rotors were cooked black (probably her fault)
I turned the rotors and put rabestos pro stop semi metalic pads on, they will last about 25k miles.
my 2 cents
I turned the rotors and put rabestos pro stop semi metalic pads on, they will last about 25k miles.
my 2 cents
03-28-2005, 06:06 PM
#10
yeah, i think you need to follow the break in procedures now.
also, make sure your calipers are all completely functional. one time i changed the driver side rear brake pads, the piston seems ok till i drive the car and get a hard back pressure as i step on the brake. i later found out that piston got locked up and wouldn't push out anymore. i had to change it and problem was solved.
this is what i didn't want to tell you till you run the break in procedures.
also, make sure your calipers are all completely functional. one time i changed the driver side rear brake pads, the piston seems ok till i drive the car and get a hard back pressure as i step on the brake. i later found out that piston got locked up and wouldn't push out anymore. i had to change it and problem was solved.
this is what i didn't want to tell you till you run the break in procedures.
03-28-2005, 06:14 PM
#11
Suggest getting your rotors turned, if you had semi metallic pads on before your rotors are probably glazed.
Bedding new pad and rotors:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Just a note on the bleeding just because fluid came out immediately doesn't mean you don't still have air in there.
Bedding new pad and rotors:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Just a note on the bleeding just because fluid came out immediately doesn't mean you don't still have air in there.
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