Prob a dumb question to you guys, but how do i go about jacking the car up with a floorjack style jack? The jacking points appear to have a thin metal "band" projecting down from under the chassis that prevents me from using a floorjack-style jack without bending this "band". Likewise, how would i position the jackstands in relation to this thin metal band?
so would you put the block of wood at the jackpoint, but inside of the metal band (closer to the center of the car)?
And how do i orient the top part of the jackstands that look like this: Y ?
Thanks.
And how do i orient the top part of the jackstands that look like this: Y ?
Thanks.
Senior Member
Here's a website I found with some pics, though it's a Mazda not Maxima and RWD:
http://www.techguys.ca/howto/floor_jack.html
I jack the rear from the ovals that are convex and I think in front of the rear wheel wells (from memory).
The problem is that with a $20-$50 floor jack, we do not have the reach that a pro would have with a $300-$600 floor jack, like you see at the tire shops.
On the front, I lift from underneath the ball joint on the lower control arm (if that is wrong, I have been doing it for a while with no negative results. But again, if it's a bad spot I am only saying what has worked for me, because I did bend one of those channels for the scissor jack using a floor jack).
Here's another pic of a Boxster--again, look at the size of the jack. Mine's not even close to that...
http://www.iq.dynip.com/~gary/hacks/jack/jack.html
http://www.techguys.ca/howto/floor_jack.html
I jack the rear from the ovals that are convex and I think in front of the rear wheel wells (from memory).
The problem is that with a $20-$50 floor jack, we do not have the reach that a pro would have with a $300-$600 floor jack, like you see at the tire shops.
On the front, I lift from underneath the ball joint on the lower control arm (if that is wrong, I have been doing it for a while with no negative results. But again, if it's a bad spot I am only saying what has worked for me, because I did bend one of those channels for the scissor jack using a floor jack).
Here's another pic of a Boxster--again, look at the size of the jack. Mine's not even close to that...
http://www.iq.dynip.com/~gary/hacks/jack/jack.html
Positioning the jackstand in this way looks like it would bend the metal channel easily though. Is this how all you guys support the max? :


ok so last question - if you use the factory scissor-type jack to raise the car, how can you put the jackstands in place if the scissor-jack is already taking up the jackpoint ?
Senior Member
Quote:
The scissor jack was not designed for that, it was designed for changing the tire. It has such a small footprint I would not recommend using it for anything more than what it was designed for.Originally Posted by ne max
ok so last question - if you use the factory scissor-type jack to raise the car, how can you put the jackstands in place if the scissor-jack is already taking up the jackpoint ?
Since Sears Craftsman sells floor jacks for $20, imho everyone should invest in one for safety's sake.
Senior Member
When I changed my tranny oil, I jacked the car up using a metal crossmember in the front, that comes to a sort of square point...Sorry that's not very descriptive.
When I set the jack stands under the car, I positioned them under the "towing" loops - they looked pretty secure. Was this safe??
When I set the jack stands under the car, I positioned them under the "towing" loops - they looked pretty secure. Was this safe??
Quote:
When I set the jack stands under the car, I positioned them under the "towing" loops - they looked pretty secure. Was this safe??
I think i know which part of the crossmember you mean - it's the intersection of the " T " where there are some bolts, right? I was thinking of using this as a jackpoint as well. What jackpoint do you use to lift the rear of car up? I didn't realize how confusing just jacking up the car could be!Originally Posted by BigLou93SE
When I changed my tranny oil, I jacked the car up using a metal crossmember in the front, that comes to a sort of square point...Sorry that's not very descriptive.When I set the jack stands under the car, I positioned them under the "towing" loops - they looked pretty secure. Was this safe??
i use the pinch welds at the front and rear near the bands but not the bands.....i just put a block of wood on the jack....or use the "frame rail" at the front.....and shackle at the rear
Quote:
what's the "shackle" at the rear?Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
i use the pinch welds at the front and rear near the bands but not the bands.....i just put a block of wood on the jack....or use the "frame rail" at the front.....and shackle at the rear
well its not really a shackle....its the lower pivot/control arm for the rear suspension on the rear wheels....just before the wheels.......as far as the rear axle....to hard to get a jack in and pump without hitting the bumper.,,,
Senior Member
Quote:
If you have a jack the size of the ones at the tire shop it's fine. As I've said before, a typical jack that costs $50 doesn't have the reach, the majority of your handle is gonna be under the car, which makes for a lot of strokes to get the jack to lift.Originally Posted by ne max
... what about the rear axle as a jackpoint, or is this a bad idea?
Ok, so I found a "bump" near the front of the car, that follows a longitudinal piece of metal. I am guessing this is all part of the crossmember support? Is this "bump" an ok jackpoint?
And i still have no idea where i can find a jackpoint in the rear, other than the 2 tow hooks near the bumper. I would appreciate your help.
And i still have no idea where i can find a jackpoint in the rear, other than the 2 tow hooks near the bumper. I would appreciate your help.
