Bobo

I still have the original OEM brake pads on my 95SE. The car has in excess of 80% highway miles on it. I am trying to get a sense of what the practical life expectancy of these pads is.

I was told by the stealer in January (I was actually getting some free service because I squawked so loudly in May 2004) that I had 50% left on the front pads to the wear indicator and 40% on the rear pads to the wear indicator. At the time, the car had 56.0K on it.

The Haynes manual recommends not going beyond 1/16" or 1.59mm remaining on the brake pads.

I am trying to determine:

1. How thick the OEM pads are when new?
2. What the thickness is when they reach the wear indicator, ie. % left.
3. From this I am trying to impute when I might have to replace the pads.

The % of highway miles is likely to increase in the future. I have a 5-speed transmission and don't use the brakes much. I don't know why I have more life remaining on the front pads than the rear, but its always been the case.

Can anyone shed any light on my mathematical situation?

Thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

There is a notch in the center of each pad, which is visible from the peek window of the caliper. I replace the pad when that notch is gone. Usually fronts wear out faster, but whatever.

At 80k, I suggest just buying a new set of 4 brembo blank rotors ($200) and new pads and shims ($100). Install them, regrease the guide pins if needed, and forget it for another 80k.

Dave

CystumMax

I recommend you get these, And you be happy with them .

http://redlinemax.com/catalog/produc...19e209e4569f36
http://redlinemax.com/catalog/produc...19e209e4569f36
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/HB268-665
http://www.buybrakes.com/store/HB421-622

Bobo

Is 80K what you would consider normal replacement or is that what you are suggesting I should replace at? I suspect a lot of 4th Gens don't get 80K, maybe 50 or 60 but I'm just guessing.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

I got 30k out of preformance pads and rotors. I just finished replacing all. I will never use another "high preformance" pad again.

I wouldnt replace rotors until someone actually looks at them and gives you specific reasons to replace them. i.e. too thin, warped to badly, stress cracks.

Bobo

I will likely just stay with the OEM pads. I never thought about changing rotors. I'm a believer if it ain't broken, don't fix it. All I'm trying to determine is when I should expect to replace my brake pads given my experience to date.

I have some things I would like to do first like new tires and an RSB.

Frank Fontaine

I changed my fronts at 54k or so, but they were only 60% gone. Since I had the calipers apart anyway, and pads are cheap, I changed them. Since pads are very inexpensive, say you could push them even further, there isn't much benefit. And you're playing a game against time, where there is little reward and moderate risk.

The rears on the other hand, should normally go further. But since your rears are wearing faster than the fronts, that may indicate a problem, such as your pins not sliding and a constant binding situation taking place. When I changed the rears after being on the road 7 years, the backing plates separated from the pad material, which disintegrated.

Yours is not a tale of if it aint broke don't fix it, but rather one of better safe than sorry. The old age factor comes into play. OEM pads would be probably under $90 front/rear, so it wouldn't hurt to change them and flush the fluid.

Bobo

I just had the fluid flushed about 3 weeks ago at an independent shop. They didn't comment on the % remaining but said the brakes were in good condition.

way2fast95

iTrader: (1)

There are no realistic mileage ratings on brake pads since it depends on driving/braking habits. I just do a visual inspection everytime I wash my wheels and listen for the wear indicator otherwise. I use OEM pads and although they dust alot, I have been happy with them. Just remember when you hear the wear indicator don't wait to change them.

CystumMax

OEM pads are good, but they don't get close to hawk brake pads.http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...eet+brake+pads
If you where going to buy OEM Brake pads you be paying the same amount, why not buy the better one. I send you the link before. You need to replace your rotors, rotor thickness becomes thinner after certain miles, causing your brake fluid to go down. Three reason your brake fluid goes down, One you have bad cliper, leaking, Two your brake hose is broken, three your pads and rotors are worn out.

Bobo

I wasn't aware you could hear the wear indicator. What does it sound like?

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Its a very high pitched squeal.

way2fast95

iTrader: (1)

The pads I buy have an audible wear indicator that touches the caliper and causes a god awful screeching sound when they are near 20% remaining (time to change), on my old crx I went past the wear indicator screeching noise once and it started grinding after approx. 1-2 months of driving. They are the OEM pads from Autozone.

Cystum, When you say better, in what way do you mean? Stopping power? Dusting? Cost? Sound? Most pads that increase stopping power also eat your rotors faster, not necessarily better in my mind.

MAXRB8

iTrader: (19)

High pitched squeal, but HEY 10 years from one set of pads!!! Come on man spend the $$$ get your rotors turned throw on a new set and be done..... peace of mind

Hell it's so easy we could do it at the meet on Saturday LOL, just kidding

I have a brand new set of Performance friction carbon metallic pads I imported up from the states, these things are incredible, probably for sale as I'm working on getting the 300ZZ TT front brake conversion.

CystumMax

yes all of that you just said.
Just go to the link i posted you will see.