My max has been vibrating excessively when stopped in drive. It used to be smooth but one day I was sitting at a light and the idle dropped down from 800rpm to about 500rpm and the car now shakes and vibrates unless I put it in neutral.The motors mounts are fine, I've cleaned the throttle body,I run premium gas, new plugs,injector cleaner,all new coil packs,clean air filter,new fuel filter,increased the idle speed and there are no ecu codes.Car runs fine otherwise,idles nice and smooth in P or N,I'm out of ideas. Anybody else have this problem before?

 

mine did something like that, it was idling in low gears, mostly 1st , P, N, changed the air and fuel filter check the injectors and everything seemed fine, it stopped doing it by itself, and it hasnt done it in a while now. so, I dont know what to tell you, other than let me know if you find a culprit, and yeah its annoying that idling and vibration...

 

So the idle flucuates from 500-800rpms? If that is the case, check for vacuum leaks.

 

mine does it in reverse on occasion

you can manually raise the idle.....

 

It doesn't fluctuate any other time but when stopped in drive,I come to a stop, idle stays normal for a few seconds then slowly lowers down to 500rpm and car begins to vibrate,I and did raise the idle speed manually, did not change idle speed in drive, still drops the same way.

 

mine did that too but later found out that my intake was hitting the battery when i have the car stopped and in first, and not on N or P. but solved that problem after few adjustments

 

Does the vibration go away if you give it a little gas? (while stopped)

 

yeah the vibration is caused by the rpm being too low, it does go away as long as rpms are normal, as soon as I let off the gas it drops back down

 

Hey how do you do this?


BTW I'm having almost the same problem. What the hell, man that freaky lol.

I thought maybe it's my gas. It dosn't idle well, RPMs drop around 500. But when I get into the throttle a bit it runs better. I have to hold the pedal so it maintains 1000 or so RPMs. It actually died on me once now. This blows. Oh and mine does it no matter what gear its in.

 

Check your codes.. mine throws a CEL but it could still be your Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.. it retards your engine thinking its running hot when its not, which causes your RPMs to drop and then stall... mines fine when running 99% of the time except when it gets in a dizzy and starts doing jumpy rpms then stall business.

 

Hello,

I have had the same exact problem for about 7 months now.

I raised my rpm's manually but it only does it when car is in P or N. When you drop it to D it goes back down.

I have yet to have found a solution to this problem.
Dealer has looked at it & told me it could be many things (which by the way they did not define) and they basically did not want to mess around until they found a solution.
My mechanic is clueless in this case also.

I will be watching this thread & hopefully someone will come up with an answer.

BTW: This vibration is very very annoying.

- Jason

 

I had the same problem, so I cleaned my TB and IACV. It looks complicated, but it is in reality very, very easy to do. Don't screw with the idle off the bat, that's bad. Clean out your IACV, then see how it goes. It might be a little hairy starting it back up after you reinstall it, but it's ok.

If your idle is still too low, then try manually raising it. If it's too high after cleaning the IACV, then lower it a little.

 

I have the same issue as described in this topic, but I don't know what the IACV and TB are? Can you give this newbie the heads up? I hope there's a guide telling me how to clean these on the net.

 

Idle air control valve, and Throttle body. Check the stickies, there may be instructions there.

 

If the idle drops when sitting at a light in D but not in P or N its probably ur fuel filter. when its in drive there is more of a load than in park. change that and tell me what happens.

 

the only thing I have not done, you'll notice from the first post, is clean the the idle air control valve. That will be next I guess. I'm am aslo thinking maybe an "idle speed control solenoid" i think that's the name, apparantly there are two and all they do is boost the idle speed when there is a load detected on the engine(ie: turning the wheel when stopped,putting car in drive) my chilton manual tells of a way to test em. We'll see what happens.

 

I haven't cleaned the IACV either...
I have done everything else...fuel filter, air filter, sparks, o2 sensors (were bad anyway), knock sensor, EVERYTHING....
I will clean it this weekend and see what happens.

- Jason

 

Does any body have a pic of the IACV Im a little lost on where it is and there was not pic of it in the stickies inless i just totally missed it Thanks in Advance

 

Hmm... mine is getting stronger vibrations while stopped at a red while on D.
It is EXTREMELY annoying!

Lets hope it goes well tweeter007, then tell me where it is so I can clean it.

 

is it a vibration you feel? or is it a hesitation? 3 things come to mind, recheck your coil packs, they might still be bad. 2 bad torque converter. 3 IACV

and remember if you have to MANUALLY adjust your idle. there is something wrong with your car, your just putting a bandaid on the problem until it gets worse. Never adjust the idle. it is set from factory for a reason.

 

At traffic lights my idle is not as smooth as it was.
Is there a thread on testing coil packs? I agree completely that manually adjusting idle is not recommended.
Stikine

 

Even if it isn't set!? I guess it is the little screw that pushes back one the lever that the cables go over? Well mine wasn't even touching. I screwed it in and got it set around 800-900 rpm and now everthing works fine for me.

 

um, if your car is automatic the spec for idle is 700-750rpms

 

My car does this only when I start it from cold, should I clean out the throttle body and IACV or take it in to get it checked because I am a noob?

D-Wass

 

mine does the same thing but only when started in the cold, the rpm's would drop so bad that the car would stall out. seems to be fine now in the warmer weather, but my belts now make excessive noise when i turn the stearing wheel if my car is not warmed up.

 

I just cleaned the iacv and it now seems to fire up a bit quicker, smoother shut down, a bit smoother idle, BUT THE SAME DAMN IDLE DROPPING AND VIBRATION WHEN IN DRIVE!!It seemed better for the first minute but dropped right back down again. Now I really don't know what to do. The Nissan dealer couldn't find any codes,they say it is because the y-pipe/slash exhaust system it too tight, not enough give, but this theory can't be right cause it happened 2 months after exhaust install. What to do now?EGR valve/pipes?

 

This might sound stupid but maybe oil change?