VQracer

Can someone give me some hints, tips, or advice on installing the Headlight Harness?

Thanx,
Victor

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

You might want to shorten the ground wire as I think it is causing many harnesses to fail, at least mine did within a month. I think there is too much current for it to handle, it does get hot, and causes problems. I would shorten it and then ground it to the radiator support, and then find a place to place the relays. I don't really think there is a good place to put these. Connect the p[ower wires to the battery and everything should be fine.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

it took so long to do, not as easy as chestons directions, i wish it was though, then again i am in no way mechanically inclined and i managed to do it. My light still seems to suck even with 80/100watts i think its my headlite housings i think i will buy some 97+ headlites anyone know where i can get them for dirt cheap, no junkyards round here.

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

this is install was pretty easy...just follow cheston's directions

VQracer

OK, I got 1 person telling me the Instruction on Cheston's site is easy, and one person telling me its not that easy.

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

do u have the harness with u?

VQracer

i got it from autodynamic.com it came in a yellow box.

KCTYPHOON

this is somethin i posted a while ago for someone else.. maby itll help you out a bit...


alright.. let me help you guys out.. the reason your having all these problems with your headlights is because when you upgrade your headlight bulbs, the factory ground wire is no longer capable of handling the increased wattage.. the problem with the way nissan grounded the headlights is the ground wire goes from the left headlight, then to the right headlight, and then to a ground. the factory ground wire is now too long and the gauge of the wire is too small, so what happens is the ground connection in the headlight plug slowly begins to burn and melt. this is why you have to wiggle the wires to make it work, and its also why its usually the left headlight that goes first.. if you wait long enough to fix it you'll be wiggling both headlight plugs to make them go on.. and let me tell you its really aggrivating.. you can buy an an upgraded wiring harness from apc that from what i hear is about 50 bucks, and is suppose to elimate this from happening and also allow your headlight to run brighter because the larger wires can conduct more current. BUT-- you DO NOT need to go through all this trouble.. a simple way to solve this whole ordeal is by gounding each headlight individually.. this will shorten the ground path, thus eliminating the need to upgrade to a larger gauge wire, and will also allow your headlights to run a little brighter. its the same concept of running power wires for a car stereo.. the reason people use 4 gauge wire and up for a decent stereo is because the wires running from the battery to the amps are like 15/ 20 feet long a peice,if it was possibile to mount the amps rite next to the battery you could get any with like a 10 gauge instead of 4.. but anyway.... a set of 9004 headlight plugs cost me about 7 bucks each, and when you hold the plug upright, with the prongs facing you,( the same way you would look at if if it was in your headlight), the ground wire is the one on the right. all you have to do is take that wire,cut it, crimp a connector on it, and ground it to the radiator support..(and connect the other two wires if your changing plugs).. problem sovled.. youll never have to play with the wires to get your headlights on again.....

Stillen_I30

Is this a fix that would not require me to get the harness if i try using my 80/100's? If someone's saying that you still have to ground the harness closeby (which some harnesses require anyway) then whats the point of the harness! From what you say the factory positive wires can handle the load but the ground cannot? Also, does it matter what gauge wire I use to ground? So i cut the ground, take the end that comes from the connector, bind that to a ground post, and lead off a fatter wire to the rest of the factory wire? sorry for all the q's...thanx

KCTYPHOON

no man.. you dont gotta go though all that b.s... i burned up the headlight connectors twice and since ive done this ive had no problems... first off. you dont need the apc.. i dont care what anybody tells you..u dont need it. if you already gotta wiggle the wires to get your lights on, then you need to get new 9004 connectors.. just goto your local parts store and tell em you need a pair of 9004 pigtails.. they should be about 7 bucks each. when your looking at the headlight, the ground wire is the one all the way on your right. splice the other two wires to the harness, ( i suggest you solder them), and crimp a grounding connector onto the end of the ground wire on the pigtail.. intsall the headlight, and then use a self tapping screw to screw the ground wire onto the radiator support above the headlight.. thats it.. ur done..

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I ve done this (ground the wires as short as possible separately to the radiator supports) about a week ago when I bought a new pair of 9004 connectors to replace my melted ones, now my passenger side has melted again, myabe my driver side too, I don't wan't to check it just yet becuase I'm thinking it'll just make things worse. I already have a harness coming in the mail from Adidas_Boy (Thanks man!), but I wanted to know why it still melted when people are saying it shouldn't have, even when have the 80/100 watt bulbs.

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I will take a shot at this. . . The reason why the harness melts is because it is a cheap plastic that is meant to only handle 55W temperatures. When you put in 100W bulbs you effectively raise the temperatures to levels that will melt the plastic, therefore the melted harness. Now the harness you are gettng will be able to handle the heat, but I don't think the wires can handle the current, thus my suggestion of shortening the ground wire. Also you shouldn't have to worry about the wires coming out as they aren't soldered to the connections, but I am still trying to figure out why the ground wire needs to be jiggled when the harness is failing. I am assuming that when there is excess heat, the metal on the connector expands, therefore not giving a connection anymore, but I could be completely off.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Yo man, I do have to jiggle the ground wire when the harness fails, actually, I have to jiggle the whole connector for it come back on. I just took a quick look at it and it seems as if the ground connector is melted and gave the metal ground connecting tab on the bulb a rusted look. Well, I'm guessing rust against rust = bad connection, right?

GarthG

iTrader: (1)

Well, the stock harness has the connections soldered so the solder melts and the connection fails. . . My harness looked like it was rusted also, so it just might be fatigue of the metal or something. . . All this is speculation, so I don't know if it really is true.

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (1)

guys.....just get a pair of PIAA platinums, or Phillips Blue Visions, or Sylvania cool blues...and live with em....you won't have to worry about melting anything..and they are MUCH better than stock.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

I had a pair of PIAA Platinums and they blew out on me. That was a waste of $80. Now I only stick with Max Super whites since their much cheaper and last longer. They might melt my harness, but thats why I got a apc upgrade arriving in the mail.

KCTYPHOON

ok people before you get too crazy.. how are you people splicing the wires together?? just twisting them and tape?? butt connectors?? cause i soldered my wires together and crimped grounding connectors on the ground wires, used self tappers and have had no problems since..