Strut & Alignment Job Cost
04-26-2005, 11:23 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 220
Strut & Alignment Job Cost
Last time I had my car checked out at a shop, he said all four of my struts were blown, and the alignment problems it was creating was causing significant extra wear on my tires. I didnt have the money at the time, so I did not even look in to it.
What do you think the cost would be if a shop did this? I dont think I am ready to replace my struts on my own. Also, while they are down there, they will replace at least one wheel bearing, im not sure about the rest.
Can anyone ball park me some figures? I am just talking about stock replacements. Thanks in advance.
What do you think the cost would be if a shop did this? I dont think I am ready to replace my struts on my own. Also, while they are down there, they will replace at least one wheel bearing, im not sure about the rest.
Can anyone ball park me some figures? I am just talking about stock replacements. Thanks in advance.
04-26-2005, 12:35 PM
#3
i wish you were around jerzy.. i would be able to hook you up.. i bought some kyb struts and my brother in law put them on for 80$.. Also, how do you know the bearings are bad?? what kind of noises are you getting??
04-26-2005, 12:58 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 648
96mAx2fast
The bearings are bad when:
You raise the car and you are able to move the wheel back and forth. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom and see if there is play. The tire should be firm, or else your bearing is bad.
I think "Tires Plus" is still having a sale on all alignments. I just got mine for $129. they did a great job too.
Stock struts are about $75 each. You can get Monroe sensatrac. I've heard that they are like stock (GXE,GLE). They will be cheaper.
The bearings are bad when:
You raise the car and you are able to move the wheel back and forth. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom and see if there is play. The tire should be firm, or else your bearing is bad.
I think "Tires Plus" is still having a sale on all alignments. I just got mine for $129. they did a great job too.
Stock struts are about $75 each. You can get Monroe sensatrac. I've heard that they are like stock (GXE,GLE). They will be cheaper.
04-26-2005, 01:05 PM
#5
1. CHEAP LABOR: Go to one of the MUFFLER SHOPS in town. They usually do suspension and their labor rates are HALF what a mechanic charges. It's a simple job. I got all four of my springs and struts replaced for $140 in labor.
2. CHEAP PARTS: You have to be careful because some shops will only install parts that you buy through them. ALWAYS check with the shop before buying parts yourself. Find one that will install parts you bring in.
3. WHAT TO BUY (AND WHERE): If you buy the struts yourself you will pay $268 for all four in the *group deals* section for "KYB GR2 struts". These are OEM replacements similar in stiffness to the maxima SE struts (they are ~15% stiffer).
4. CONSIDER NEW SPRINGS: It costs zero dollars more in *labor* to put in new springs while replacing the struts, and the cost of springs is pretty cheap. Add $170 for a set of four. If you've EVER considered upgrading your suspension to something sportier, now is the time. I'd recommend Tein H-techs for a slight drop and sporty, but not too harsh handling. They go pretty well with the GR2s.
5. CONSIDER OTHER WORN SUSPENSION PARTS: You car is a 1995 like mine. I just recently changed the strut bearings (they are only on the front struts). They are $40 for the pair, but I ended paying all of the labor AGAIN because they had to pull out the struts to change them! I'd recommend you change the "strut bearings" no matter what else you do. For $70 more, I'd change the "front upper strut mounts", too. Do the bearings at the very least!!!
If you take my advice on 1-5 you will not have to worry about your suspension again for a long, long time. If you skip 4-5, you will likely be paying the same labor again when your strut bearings finally die (they will) and when your strut mounts finally wear out (again, they will).
Labor: ~$140
Struts: ~$280
Alignment: ~$60
Springs: ~$170
Strut bearings: ~$40 for the pair (KYB brand bearings, OEM are $60 for the pair)
Strut mounts: ~$70 for the pair (KYB brand)
You are not going to spend less than $480 for the four struts, labor, and an alignment. You might as well spend the extra $110 for the bearings and mounts too.
The springs are your call. But if I had the opportunity to ditch the HORRIBLY MUSHY GLE springs for only $170 bucks, I'd do it in a second (Actually, I did, just last year - very happy I did, too!)
2. CHEAP PARTS: You have to be careful because some shops will only install parts that you buy through them. ALWAYS check with the shop before buying parts yourself. Find one that will install parts you bring in.
3. WHAT TO BUY (AND WHERE): If you buy the struts yourself you will pay $268 for all four in the *group deals* section for "KYB GR2 struts". These are OEM replacements similar in stiffness to the maxima SE struts (they are ~15% stiffer).
4. CONSIDER NEW SPRINGS: It costs zero dollars more in *labor* to put in new springs while replacing the struts, and the cost of springs is pretty cheap. Add $170 for a set of four. If you've EVER considered upgrading your suspension to something sportier, now is the time. I'd recommend Tein H-techs for a slight drop and sporty, but not too harsh handling. They go pretty well with the GR2s.
5. CONSIDER OTHER WORN SUSPENSION PARTS: You car is a 1995 like mine. I just recently changed the strut bearings (they are only on the front struts). They are $40 for the pair, but I ended paying all of the labor AGAIN because they had to pull out the struts to change them! I'd recommend you change the "strut bearings" no matter what else you do. For $70 more, I'd change the "front upper strut mounts", too. Do the bearings at the very least!!!
If you take my advice on 1-5 you will not have to worry about your suspension again for a long, long time. If you skip 4-5, you will likely be paying the same labor again when your strut bearings finally die (they will) and when your strut mounts finally wear out (again, they will).
Labor: ~$140
Struts: ~$280
Alignment: ~$60
Springs: ~$170
Strut bearings: ~$40 for the pair (KYB brand bearings, OEM are $60 for the pair)
Strut mounts: ~$70 for the pair (KYB brand)
You are not going to spend less than $480 for the four struts, labor, and an alignment. You might as well spend the extra $110 for the bearings and mounts too.
The springs are your call. But if I had the opportunity to ditch the HORRIBLY MUSHY GLE springs for only $170 bucks, I'd do it in a second (Actually, I did, just last year - very happy I did, too!)
04-26-2005, 01:25 PM
#6
Originally Posted by TrackSmart
1. CHEAP LABOR: Go to one of the MUFFLER SHOPS in town. They usually do suspension and their labor rates are HALF what a mechanic charges. It's a simple job. I got all four of my springs and struts replaced for $140 in labor.
2. CHEAP PARTS: You have to be careful because some shops will only install parts that you buy through them. ALWAYS check with the shop before buying parts yourself. Find one that will install parts you bring in.
3. WHAT TO BUY (AND WHERE): If you buy the struts yourself you will pay $268 for all four in the *group deals* section for "KYB GR2 struts". These are OEM replacements similar in stiffness to the maxima SE struts (they are ~15% stiffer).
4. CONSIDER NEW SPRINGS: It costs zero dollars more in *labor* to put in new springs while replacing the struts, and the cost of springs is pretty cheap. Add $170 for a set of four. If you've EVER considered upgrading your suspension to something sportier, now is the time. I'd recommend Tein H-techs for a slight drop and sporty, but not too harsh handling. They go pretty well with the GR2s.
5. CONSIDER OTHER WORN SUSPENSION PARTS: You car is a 1995 like mine. I just recently changed the strut bearings (they are only on the front struts). They are $40 for the pair, but I ended paying all of the labor AGAIN because they had to pull out the struts to change them! I'd recommend you change the "strut bearings" no matter what else you do. For $70 more, I'd change the "front upper strut mounts", too. Do the bearings at the very least!!!
If you take my advice on 1-5 you will not have to worry about your suspension again for a long, long time. If you skip 4-5, you will likely be paying the same labor again when your strut bearings finally die (they will) and when your strut mounts finally wear out (again, they will).
Labor: ~$140
Struts: ~$280
Alignment: ~$60
Springs: ~$170
Strut bearings: ~$40 for the pair (KYB brand bearings, OEM are $60 for the pair)
Strut mounts: ~$70 for the pair (KYB brand)
You are not going to spend less than $480 for the four struts, labor, and an alignment. You might as well spend the extra $110 for the bearings and mounts too.
The springs are your call. But if I had the opportunity to ditch the HORRIBLY MUSHY GLE springs for only $170 bucks, I'd do it in a second (Actually, I did, just last year - very happy I did, too!)
2. CHEAP PARTS: You have to be careful because some shops will only install parts that you buy through them. ALWAYS check with the shop before buying parts yourself. Find one that will install parts you bring in.
3. WHAT TO BUY (AND WHERE): If you buy the struts yourself you will pay $268 for all four in the *group deals* section for "KYB GR2 struts". These are OEM replacements similar in stiffness to the maxima SE struts (they are ~15% stiffer).
4. CONSIDER NEW SPRINGS: It costs zero dollars more in *labor* to put in new springs while replacing the struts, and the cost of springs is pretty cheap. Add $170 for a set of four. If you've EVER considered upgrading your suspension to something sportier, now is the time. I'd recommend Tein H-techs for a slight drop and sporty, but not too harsh handling. They go pretty well with the GR2s.
5. CONSIDER OTHER WORN SUSPENSION PARTS: You car is a 1995 like mine. I just recently changed the strut bearings (they are only on the front struts). They are $40 for the pair, but I ended paying all of the labor AGAIN because they had to pull out the struts to change them! I'd recommend you change the "strut bearings" no matter what else you do. For $70 more, I'd change the "front upper strut mounts", too. Do the bearings at the very least!!!
If you take my advice on 1-5 you will not have to worry about your suspension again for a long, long time. If you skip 4-5, you will likely be paying the same labor again when your strut bearings finally die (they will) and when your strut mounts finally wear out (again, they will).
Labor: ~$140
Struts: ~$280
Alignment: ~$60
Springs: ~$170
Strut bearings: ~$40 for the pair (KYB brand bearings, OEM are $60 for the pair)
Strut mounts: ~$70 for the pair (KYB brand)
You are not going to spend less than $480 for the four struts, labor, and an alignment. You might as well spend the extra $110 for the bearings and mounts too.
The springs are your call. But if I had the opportunity to ditch the HORRIBLY MUSHY GLE springs for only $170 bucks, I'd do it in a second (Actually, I did, just last year - very happy I did, too!)
04-26-2005, 05:15 PM
#7
Strut Bearings: If you turn your steering wheel from lock-to-lock and hear a "crunk..crunk..crunk" sound as you turn, that's a sign that they are dried out (the grease has dried out/squeezed out). Also, you may hear a "sproing" sound when you go around a turn as the spring "winds up" and is then released. The "sproing" sound may also be worn strut mounts.
Strut mounts: If you hear a squeaking noise from the front of the car when you go over bumps, that's a typical sign of worn strut mounts. Also, a "sproing" sound when going around turns. Again, that's the spring binding and then being released.
All of these things may be FINE right now. I'm just saying that they very commonly go bad as the maxima ages. You may be REALLY LUCKY and have these things last a lot longer than most people.
The choice is yours. You can be proactive and replace the strut bearings and mounts while they are removing all of those pieces anyway, or you can hope for good luck!
Another One (for your clicking sounds):
CV Joint (another common maxima repair): Find and empty parking lot. Roll down the windows. Turn the wheel all the way left (and to the right later) until it locks. Drive in a circle slowly. If you hear a clicking sound, that usually means the the CV joint on that side has lost it's grease or is deteriorated. This is the joint between your axle and your wheel. A remanufactured axle typically costs $80 at Autozone, NAPA, etc. The labor is usually another $80. Don't replace these unless you need to. They have nothing to do with removing the struts...
Strut mounts: If you hear a squeaking noise from the front of the car when you go over bumps, that's a typical sign of worn strut mounts. Also, a "sproing" sound when going around turns. Again, that's the spring binding and then being released.
All of these things may be FINE right now. I'm just saying that they very commonly go bad as the maxima ages. You may be REALLY LUCKY and have these things last a lot longer than most people.
The choice is yours. You can be proactive and replace the strut bearings and mounts while they are removing all of those pieces anyway, or you can hope for good luck!
Another One (for your clicking sounds):
CV Joint (another common maxima repair): Find and empty parking lot. Roll down the windows. Turn the wheel all the way left (and to the right later) until it locks. Drive in a circle slowly. If you hear a clicking sound, that usually means the the CV joint on that side has lost it's grease or is deteriorated. This is the joint between your axle and your wheel. A remanufactured axle typically costs $80 at Autozone, NAPA, etc. The labor is usually another $80. Don't replace these unless you need to. They have nothing to do with removing the struts...
04-27-2005, 11:50 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 220
When i had my breaks/cv joints done they said my front right "strut mount" was bad, so that is added to the list. I say "strut mount" because i cant remember if that is the term they said, but it was ball and socket joint and they say mine is worn bad.
I am saying my wheel bearing is bad because from my listening region outsid the drivers window the wheel makes a high pichted squeek, but its very quiet sound, from what i was told this is the wheel bearing. Again, i dont know if its just the front left one, thats just the only one i hear.
Tracksmart, thanks for the input a lot
I am saying my wheel bearing is bad because from my listening region outsid the drivers window the wheel makes a high pichted squeek, but its very quiet sound, from what i was told this is the wheel bearing. Again, i dont know if its just the front left one, thats just the only one i hear.
Tracksmart, thanks for the input a lot
04-27-2005, 01:20 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Rotncarcas
When i had my breaks/cv joints done they said my front right "strut mount" was bad, so that is added to the list. I say "strut mount" because i cant remember if that is the term they said, but it was ball and socket joint and they say mine is worn bad.
04-27-2005, 07:14 PM
#10
its just 1 thump when i come to a slow stop, take off slow, go up my driveway w/ my left side first, or go over a dip.. it only happens on the left side. It sounds as if somethings clicks into place but not a clicking sound, more like a THUMP
04-27-2005, 08:50 PM
#11
Sounds like it's just the strut mount on that side. Like I said, when you get the struts replaced, have them change out the bearings and mounts, too. It will be worth the extra cost now, believe me.
To be safe, have them look at the *engine mounts*, too. The are probably fine, but when they put your car on the lift it will only take a few seconds for them to look at them. Literally, just 60 seconds to check out all four.
The engine mounts are metal brackets, but they have "rubber pads" on them that can deteriorate over time, thus allowing the engine to move excessively when you accelerate or go over bumps. This messes up your handling and ride quality as well as puts excess stress on other things...
Good Luck!
To be safe, have them look at the *engine mounts*, too. The are probably fine, but when they put your car on the lift it will only take a few seconds for them to look at them. Literally, just 60 seconds to check out all four.
The engine mounts are metal brackets, but they have "rubber pads" on them that can deteriorate over time, thus allowing the engine to move excessively when you accelerate or go over bumps. This messes up your handling and ride quality as well as puts excess stress on other things...
Good Luck!
04-28-2005, 05:23 AM
#12
Replacing all four struts, shocks and mounts should run you no more than $175. As for the alignment, you can get a one-time alignment for around $50, and a lifetime alignment for around $120.
04-28-2005, 07:43 AM
#13
strut mounts
Damn!!! I just had my kyb/agx and eibach suspension done. I didnt change the mounts because i didnt know any better. DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hate cars, im going to get myself a horse (food, water, love).. thats all i need to have it running in tip top shape.. lol.. Where can i get strut mounts? Does KYB make them? are they expensive??
04-28-2005, 09:56 AM
#15
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 67
my right side makes a thumping noise whenver im driving as if the wheel is bouncing up and down. or as if the wheel has a dent in it.. it just makes a thump thump thump allt he time especially when turning it will thump more rapidly anyone kno what is the problem?
04-28-2005, 11:32 AM
#16
Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
Get em from the stealership they are oem parts. They are not real expensive, expensive for a piece of rubber though.
How much $$$ total??
04-29-2005, 08:43 AM
#17
[QUOTE=96mAx2fast]How much $$$ am i looking to be spending on parts alone?? Should i just get all the bearings and everything??
READ THE FIFTH POST FROM THE TOP!!! IT HAS ALL OF THIS INFO IN IT!!!
pair of KYB mounts = $70
pair of KYB bearings = $40
Total = $110
Since it's too late to get them installed with the springs/struts, you might as leave things as is. HOWEVER, when one of these things go bad, replace all of the mounts and bearings at that time. So yeah, you missed the opportunity, so leave it alone for now.
READ THE FIFTH POST FROM THE TOP!!! IT HAS ALL OF THIS INFO IN IT!!!
pair of KYB mounts = $70
pair of KYB bearings = $40
Total = $110
Since it's too late to get them installed with the springs/struts, you might as leave things as is. HOWEVER, when one of these things go bad, replace all of the mounts and bearings at that time. So yeah, you missed the opportunity, so leave it alone for now.
04-29-2005, 08:50 AM
#18
Originally Posted by TrackSmart
I just recently bought these parts.
Get the KYB mounts. They are $35 each (so $70 for the pair you need for the front struts).
Get the KYB bearings for $20 each (so $40 for the pair) or go to the dealer and expect to pay $30-35 each for them. Just get the KYB ones...
Get the KYB mounts. They are $35 each (so $70 for the pair you need for the front struts).
Get the KYB bearings for $20 each (so $40 for the pair) or go to the dealer and expect to pay $30-35 each for them. Just get the KYB ones...
04-29-2005, 08:55 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 96mAx2fast
Good.. Thats in my budget.. where can i get all of these items??
Sorry just edited my post (see above) when I realize I had just typed all of that info earlier in this same post! Read man! Ha Ha...
You can get the strut mounts from Cattman.com. Brian Catts owns the site and has a very good reputation with the maxima.org community. He doesn't sell the bearings though. If you want the least hassle, you can pick them up at the dealership (OEM). If you want a couple of bucks cheaper, get them online from anyone who sells them.
BUT WHY BOTHER NOW? IT'S TOO LATE TO SAVE THE LABOR COSTS OR YOUR PERSONAL TIME. LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL ISSUES CROP UP.
04-29-2005, 09:06 AM
#20
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 67
Originally Posted by 2muchmax
my right side makes a thumping noise whenver im driving as if the wheel is bouncing up and down. or as if the wheel has a dent in it.. it just makes a thump thump thump allt he time especially when turning it will thump more rapidly anyone kno what is the problem?
04-29-2005, 10:06 AM
#22
Originally Posted by 2muchmax
anyone know whats the problem with this noise?
There are rubber pads (well, actually, electrolyte-filled rubber pads) on the engine mounts that can get worn out over time. I have this problem right now and am looking into replacing them.
TO TEST ENGINE MOUNTS: Put car in gear. Roll down all the windows. Stand on the brake peddle to ensure the car does not move. Now give it rev the engine a few times. Do you hear any "clunk" sounds? Try it in reverse. Any "clunk" sounds now? If you hear a clunk in one of the directions (or both) it might just be the engine mounts.
04-29-2005, 12:27 PM
#24
Just Don't Floor It (be gentle)!!! Trust me. It will be FINE!!!
If you are worried, do it on the street with nothing in front of you but open road.
GENTLY rev the engine. You basically are looking for the tell tale noise that will tell you that your engine is banging against the mounts or moving excessively. The hood was open, of course, so he could see the engine.
I did this TODAY with a mechanic. He had me sit in the car and HE STOOD RIGHT IN FRONT OF IT to see if the engine was moving excessively.
That's SHORT, GENTLE, revs. When the engine is at a constant speed, it won't be moving. It's when you accelerate that you will get the noise (like when you accelerate through a turn!!!)
If you are worried, do it on the street with nothing in front of you but open road.
GENTLY rev the engine. You basically are looking for the tell tale noise that will tell you that your engine is banging against the mounts or moving excessively. The hood was open, of course, so he could see the engine.
I did this TODAY with a mechanic. He had me sit in the car and HE STOOD RIGHT IN FRONT OF IT to see if the engine was moving excessively.
That's SHORT, GENTLE, revs. When the engine is at a constant speed, it won't be moving. It's when you accelerate that you will get the noise (like when you accelerate through a turn!!!)
04-29-2005, 05:34 PM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 34
I have determined I need Front Strut bearings on my '95 GLE.
I have the crunk noise when turning the wheel. With a hand on either spring in the front with someone truing the wheel (car running) the "sproing" can be felt.
Front struts are original but no bounce when pushing on the front - either side.
However, might as well change them with the bearings.....
Called the stealership and they wanted $770 for front struts and bearings!!!!
Went to check out Midas based on a post here saying a muffler shop would have cheap labor. Although they were very helpful in putting the car on the rack and checking the suspension and going over things from this site, they wanted $861 for struts, mounts and bearings (front only!).
Went to my local indie guy who has done some great work and fixed stuff the dealer NEVER could and he wants 400 for front struts and bearings... He however was trying to convince me before that it was the engine mounts (which does NOT clunk on the rev in gear test) or the steering rack (that is leaking a very small amount but never makes it to the garage floor) and never zerod in on the strut bearings.
Sears will do front struts, mounts and bearings and alignment (one time) for $480 including tax.
Anyone have bad issues with Sears for this job?
Back to the rack, the rubber boots on both sides are ripped and as I said there is a SMALL amount of fluid present. Thoughts on a fix?
I have the crunk noise when turning the wheel. With a hand on either spring in the front with someone truing the wheel (car running) the "sproing" can be felt.
Front struts are original but no bounce when pushing on the front - either side.
However, might as well change them with the bearings.....
Called the stealership and they wanted $770 for front struts and bearings!!!!
Went to check out Midas based on a post here saying a muffler shop would have cheap labor. Although they were very helpful in putting the car on the rack and checking the suspension and going over things from this site, they wanted $861 for struts, mounts and bearings (front only!).
Went to my local indie guy who has done some great work and fixed stuff the dealer NEVER could and he wants 400 for front struts and bearings... He however was trying to convince me before that it was the engine mounts (which does NOT clunk on the rev in gear test) or the steering rack (that is leaking a very small amount but never makes it to the garage floor) and never zerod in on the strut bearings.
Sears will do front struts, mounts and bearings and alignment (one time) for $480 including tax.
Anyone have bad issues with Sears for this job?
Back to the rack, the rubber boots on both sides are ripped and as I said there is a SMALL amount of fluid present. Thoughts on a fix?
04-30-2005, 01:21 AM
#26
Sorry. I meant "cheap labor" only. I did not imply buying the parts from them. I bought the suspension parts myself. Spent about $500 for ALL FOUR CORNERS for struts AND springs. Spent $140 more for the install on ALL FOUR CORNERS. But add in the bearings, too, since you need them. Another $60. You will need new bumpstops to go with the new struts (if they don't come with them).
-Most muffler shops charge $40 per hour for labor and it's a 3-4 hour job.
-Most mechanics charge $75-90 per hour. That's about double the cost.
Make sure you find a place (ahead of time) that will install outside parts! And good luck! For the prices you quoted me you should be able to get ALL FOUR of the struts AND springs done if you get the parts yourself!
-Most muffler shops charge $40 per hour for labor and it's a 3-4 hour job.
-Most mechanics charge $75-90 per hour. That's about double the cost.
Make sure you find a place (ahead of time) that will install outside parts! And good luck! For the prices you quoted me you should be able to get ALL FOUR of the struts AND springs done if you get the parts yourself!
04-30-2005, 04:11 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Good post, TrackSmart.
There are so many cases in life where when you do a job, there's something else that you might as well do at the same time due to labor.
Kinda unrelated, but ever wonder why plumbers use stop valves in your house instead of ball valves? Yes, the former is 1/2 the price of the latter. But it's basically tons of labor or impractical to replace a worn-out washer in a stop valve once it's installed. The ball valve lasts forever. Now, when one is double the cost of the other, we're talking $8 vs. $2.50-3. %-wise a lot, but the extra $5.50 is barely a Sam Adams draft!
There are so many cases in life where when you do a job, there's something else that you might as well do at the same time due to labor.
Kinda unrelated, but ever wonder why plumbers use stop valves in your house instead of ball valves? Yes, the former is 1/2 the price of the latter. But it's basically tons of labor or impractical to replace a worn-out washer in a stop valve once it's installed. The ball valve lasts forever. Now, when one is double the cost of the other, we're talking $8 vs. $2.50-3. %-wise a lot, but the extra $5.50 is barely a Sam Adams draft!
04-30-2005, 08:24 AM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 34
Thanks for the reply, TrackSmart.
I had the stealership put in new shocks in the back around a year and a half ago speaking of over priced. I had a 300 credit there and thought it was the best thing to use it on as they were shot.
For a stock ride, the Monroe shocks Sears sells should be OK?
I had the stealership put in new shocks in the back around a year and a half ago speaking of over priced. I had a 300 credit there and thought it was the best thing to use it on as they were shot.
For a stock ride, the Monroe shocks Sears sells should be OK?
04-30-2005, 12:27 PM
#29
Originally Posted by MaxRandy
Thanks for the reply, TrackSmart.
I had the stealership put in new shocks in the back around a year and a half ago speaking of over priced. I had a 300 credit there and thought it was the best thing to use it on as they were shot.
For a stock ride, the Monroe shocks Sears sells should be OK?
I had the stealership put in new shocks in the back around a year and a half ago speaking of over priced. I had a 300 credit there and thought it was the best thing to use it on as they were shot.
For a stock ride, the Monroe shocks Sears sells should be OK?
Yeah, the Monroe shocks are a decent quality OEM replacement. Other people on these boards have said they hold up very well if you are interested in keeping the original ride quality of your car. Personally, I much prefer my somewhat stiffer suspension for a little more confidence when cornering, plus the chance to drop the car about 1.5" for slightly sleeker looks.
If you are satisfied with your stock ride (when the struts were working that is!) then you will be fine with the Monroe.
However, if they are going to charge you $700 to do it, consider upgrading to better springs and struts all around. With the group deals here you will be able to do all four corners. That's a personal choice, however.
Good luck!
04-30-2005, 12:57 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 34
Sears has quoted $512 for front struts (monroe sensa trac) strut mounts and bearings, boot and alignment.
I could get the Struts a bit cheaper 80 vs 110 but their labor with this special is $35 a side for all above (sans alignment)
50 each for the mount kit and 32 for boots. 10% discount as well for Sunday friends and family (? I am no friend or family).
At the end of the day it will be around $465.00 including tax.
I can live with that. Car has 130,000 miles.
Next I need to figure out the slight leak around the boots that are ripped coming out of the rack.
I could get the Struts a bit cheaper 80 vs 110 but their labor with this special is $35 a side for all above (sans alignment)
50 each for the mount kit and 32 for boots. 10% discount as well for Sunday friends and family (? I am no friend or family).
At the end of the day it will be around $465.00 including tax.
I can live with that. Car has 130,000 miles.
Next I need to figure out the slight leak around the boots that are ripped coming out of the rack.
05-01-2005, 06:44 PM
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 34
OK. Front struts, mounts & bearings replaced in my 95 GLE with 130K miles.
Problems solved by this change.
Crunk crunk noise gone when turning wheel either direction.
Clunk gone from right side when turning wheel (almost like there was play).
Clunk on right side gone when going over a bump or in a driveway.
Front end tightness in general improved in a major way.
Problems solved by this change.
Crunk crunk noise gone when turning wheel either direction.
Clunk gone from right side when turning wheel (almost like there was play).
Clunk on right side gone when going over a bump or in a driveway.
Front end tightness in general improved in a major way.
05-01-2005, 09:56 PM
#35
Originally Posted by MaxRandy
OK. Front struts, mounts & bearings replaced in my 95 GLE with 130K miles.
Problems solved by this change.
Crunk crunk noise gone when turning wheel either direction.
Clunk gone from right side when turning wheel (almost like there was play).
Clunk on right side gone when going over a bump or in a driveway.
Front end tightness in general improved in a major way.
Problems solved by this change.
Crunk crunk noise gone when turning wheel either direction.
Clunk gone from right side when turning wheel (almost like there was play).
Clunk on right side gone when going over a bump or in a driveway.
Front end tightness in general improved in a major way.
Glad to hear it! Yeah, it hurts to take out your wallet to pay for these things, but it's all worthwhile when your car drives nicely again! Enjoy the ride.
05-03-2005, 07:37 AM
#36
Originally Posted by TrackSmart
Sorry just edited my post (see above) when I realize I had just typed all of that info earlier in this same post! Read man! Ha Ha...
You can get the strut mounts from Cattman.com. Brian Catts owns the site and has a very good reputation with the maxima.org community. He doesn't sell the bearings though. If you want the least hassle, you can pick them up at the dealership (OEM). If you want a couple of bucks cheaper, get them online from anyone who sells them.
BUT WHY BOTHER NOW? IT'S TOO LATE TO SAVE THE LABOR COSTS OR YOUR PERSONAL TIME. LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL ISSUES CROP UP.
You can get the strut mounts from Cattman.com. Brian Catts owns the site and has a very good reputation with the maxima.org community. He doesn't sell the bearings though. If you want the least hassle, you can pick them up at the dealership (OEM). If you want a couple of bucks cheaper, get them online from anyone who sells them.
BUT WHY BOTHER NOW? IT'S TOO LATE TO SAVE THE LABOR COSTS OR YOUR PERSONAL TIME. LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL ISSUES CROP UP.
05-10-2005, 01:22 PM
#37
The manager at my local TiresPlus (whom I know from prior work) quoted me $175 labor to R&R my springs, struts, and mounts.
Since I also got a 3-yr alignment with them, they will do that right after the install.
Which I should remind everyone out there planning on getting new springs or shocks:
GET YOUR CAR ALIGNED A.S.A.P. AFTER THE INSTALLATION!
I cannot stress that enough...
Since I also got a 3-yr alignment with them, they will do that right after the install.
Which I should remind everyone out there planning on getting new springs or shocks:
GET YOUR CAR ALIGNED A.S.A.P. AFTER THE INSTALLATION!
I cannot stress that enough...
05-10-2005, 04:50 PM
#38
Originally Posted by 96mAx2fast
I dont have to pay any labor cost cause my cousin will do it for me but i have to bug him again.. He did my agx/eibach about a month ago.. I wish i knew more about these things.. I tried tirerack and dont done have the boots for my car.. the front mounts are 42 and the rear ones are 5$.. Where can i get everything (mounts,bearings, whatever else i need to stop that annoying *THUMP*!!!)
Cattman.com has the strut boots for your AGX struts. Catmann also has the upper strut mounts for $35 each.
Also, I was just on TireRack.com and they claim to have the upper mounts for just $30. Here's the Link (Don't Know if it will work)
TireRack.com - KYB Strut Mounts
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