Shaky idle
05-06-2005, 11:09 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 108
Shaky idle
Hey Guys,
Just these past few days I've been experiencing a vibration at idle. It seems as if my rpms drop to about 600 even when the a/c is on when I am at a stoplight. The car starts and drives perfectly ; and the odd part is that I had this problem about 4 months ago, and had the IACV replaced and everythign was fine. Actually, before I had gotten it replaced I had trouble starting the car as well. Topping that off, I had the throttle body cleaned recently and had just put in some chevron fuel injector cleaner and so I was expecting the car to run fine for sometime. I've always been putting in 93 octane gas in the car if that makes any difference at all. I've also noticed, that whenever I come to a slow stop the rpms appear fine AS I'm coming to a stop, but when the car actually stops...it jumps down to about 600, and I feel some heavy vibration?!?!? What could this be?
*BTW I have a '98 if that helps - o yea, and I have no CEL light on...
Thanks in advance...
Just these past few days I've been experiencing a vibration at idle. It seems as if my rpms drop to about 600 even when the a/c is on when I am at a stoplight. The car starts and drives perfectly ; and the odd part is that I had this problem about 4 months ago, and had the IACV replaced and everythign was fine. Actually, before I had gotten it replaced I had trouble starting the car as well. Topping that off, I had the throttle body cleaned recently and had just put in some chevron fuel injector cleaner and so I was expecting the car to run fine for sometime. I've always been putting in 93 octane gas in the car if that makes any difference at all. I've also noticed, that whenever I come to a slow stop the rpms appear fine AS I'm coming to a stop, but when the car actually stops...it jumps down to about 600, and I feel some heavy vibration?!?!? What could this be?
*BTW I have a '98 if that helps - o yea, and I have no CEL light on...
Thanks in advance...
05-06-2005, 11:21 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Alexandria, VA, & Central Jersey
Posts: 2,647
maybe you're alternator is going or your battery might be one its way. It definately has something to do with power since then you turn on the A.C. the rpms drop even more. but it can also be normal if you're one of those drivers that put it in drive when the car is still rolling backwards, or vice versa. or even down shift. this is assuming you have an automatic by the way
05-07-2005, 08:08 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 108
Originally Posted by MAXRB8
Have you changed your plugs lately? Are you sure it's exactly 600rpm? If you raise the idle to say 700rpm does the problem go away?
Just took the car for a spin like a second ago - and when its stopped sometimes the car shakes sometimes it doesn't - however, the rpms are around 600 when I am stopped w/ the a/c on. To tell you the truth, I am a newbie at this stuff - so I am not really sure how I can raise the idle. As far as I can remember, after I had gotten the IACV the rpms used to be around 900 when I was stopped. The funny thing is that when I have the car in "park" the rpms are at 900, but when I'm standing at a light or something, it drops to 600???
Thanks in advance...
05-07-2005, 09:43 AM
#9
Sorry just realized you have an automatic, I have a 5 speed and 600 rpm at idle is normal, but I don't think 600rpm is correct for an automatic? Especially with A/C on. When your IAC valve was changed was your idle reset?
How to adjust IACV -
Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.
If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)
The IAC valve is #11 but you probably know this as it's been changed, the adjustment screw is on top it's black plastic should be a phillips head design, follow the above procedure.
I highly doubt you have bad coil packs as you say your car runs fine with no hesitation once past idle and besides replacing coils is an expensive fix that might not be your problem ( unless you have a 99 notorious for bad coil packs), adjusting the IAC isn't going to cost you anything. Hope this helps and good luck.
How to adjust IACV -
Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.
If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)
The IAC valve is #11 but you probably know this as it's been changed, the adjustment screw is on top it's black plastic should be a phillips head design, follow the above procedure.
I highly doubt you have bad coil packs as you say your car runs fine with no hesitation once past idle and besides replacing coils is an expensive fix that might not be your problem ( unless you have a 99 notorious for bad coil packs), adjusting the IAC isn't going to cost you anything. Hope this helps and good luck.
05-07-2005, 10:39 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 108
Hey MAXRB8,
Thanks for the quick reply man - appreciate it, I had gotten the IAVC replaced like3 months ago cuz my rpms were stumbling then as well but a lot worse than now. NOw it only drops when I come to a stop - but its at a steady 600. Hey, how do I d/c the IAVC? Sorry for the newbie question...kinda new to this stuff? Also, how do i know if i turned the screw to 700 rpms?
EDIT - I have a '98 so I'm pretty sure the coil packs arent the issue, and only 47k miles...
Thanks in advance...
Thanks for the quick reply man - appreciate it, I had gotten the IAVC replaced like3 months ago cuz my rpms were stumbling then as well but a lot worse than now. NOw it only drops when I come to a stop - but its at a steady 600. Hey, how do I d/c the IAVC? Sorry for the newbie question...kinda new to this stuff? Also, how do i know if i turned the screw to 700 rpms?
EDIT - I have a '98 so I'm pretty sure the coil packs arent the issue, and only 47k miles...
Thanks in advance...
05-07-2005, 10:47 AM
#11
Originally Posted by 2kmaxima
Hey MAXRB8,
Thanks for the quick reply man - appreciate it, I had gotten the IAVC replaced like3 months ago cuz my rpms were stumbling then as well but a lot worse than now. NOw it only drops when I come to a stop - but its at a steady 600. Hey, how do I d/c the IAVC? Sorry for the newbie question...kinda new to this stuff? Also, how do i know if i turned the screw to 700 rpms?
EDIT - I have a '98 so I'm pretty sure the coil packs arent the issue, and only 47k miles...
Thanks in advance...
Thanks for the quick reply man - appreciate it, I had gotten the IAVC replaced like3 months ago cuz my rpms were stumbling then as well but a lot worse than now. NOw it only drops when I come to a stop - but its at a steady 600. Hey, how do I d/c the IAVC? Sorry for the newbie question...kinda new to this stuff? Also, how do i know if i turned the screw to 700 rpms?
EDIT - I have a '98 so I'm pretty sure the coil packs arent the issue, and only 47k miles...
Thanks in advance...
05-07-2005, 02:40 PM
#12
i have the same problem with my car. my uncle is driving it atm, his got wrecked and im generous... but once i get it back ill troubleshoot and if by that time you dont have it fixed ill post some
05-08-2005, 11:04 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 108
Originally Posted by MAXRB8
Sorry I really don't know how to explain it better than in my previous post, just try it, you'll notice a difference as you adjust it, the car will start with the TPS disconnected which is the main plug just by the IACV adjustment screw. Just count the number of turns you make so you can put it back to where it was if necessary.
Just came back from my car - and had taken pics of what I believe is the TPS (not sure, because I'm kidna a newbie at this stuff)...is the black screw thing the TPS that i need to adjust?
Also, here's another picture - except this angle shows a few plugs attached. Which one do i dettach while im raising the idle??
Also, how do i know if I had turned the screw too much - like will half a turn not really do anything? In addition, do i check to see if i raised my idle without the a/c on??? And what should it be at for an automatic??
Thanks again man, Sorry for the long post...but this vibraiton is relaly annoying me....
EDIT - Do i move teh screw clockwise or counter clockwise to raise the idle up?
05-10-2005, 12:02 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 95
Keep it coming, if you search the threads, I was trying to figure out this exact problem with my max a couple of weeks ago, with no luck. I have all new coils(needed to be replaced anyway), cleaned TB,changed plugs, removed and cleaned IACV, fuel filter, have adjusted idle up,then back down. None of these things fixed it. I would really really like to get to the bottom of this as well. Keep the posts coming!!!
05-10-2005, 09:09 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
Hi,
Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread but the forum won't let me post a new topic, and this is the closest one to what I've been seeing.
I have a 99 GLE. If I'm stopped at a light for more than 30 seconds or so, I get intermittent shaking, like a small earthquake. The shaking doesn't seem to happen at any other time, and acceleration and fuel economy are around what they've always been. I'm thinking it's the coilpacks, so I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow to get them all replaced.
I have some questions that I'm hoping someone can answer:
1. Does one or more coilpacks failing sound right as to why this shaking is happening?
2. The mechanic is charging me $660+: $480+ for the 6 coils, and $180 for 2 hours of labor. I thought that was a rip, but he said that the screws holding in the coilpacks are hard to take off. I tried taking them off myself and he's right. But does that sound around right, or am I getting ripped?
3. The mechanic already read the codes (none), and tested each of the coilpacks (no errors). However, I've read on here that it doesn't matter what the readings are; I have a '99 so I should replace the coilpacks (I have 76k on the odo). Sound right?
4. The mechanic recommends OEM coils. Aren't the Mitsubishis considered better?
Thanks in advance.
(edited to add more description about what's happening)
Sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread but the forum won't let me post a new topic, and this is the closest one to what I've been seeing.
I have a 99 GLE. If I'm stopped at a light for more than 30 seconds or so, I get intermittent shaking, like a small earthquake. The shaking doesn't seem to happen at any other time, and acceleration and fuel economy are around what they've always been. I'm thinking it's the coilpacks, so I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow to get them all replaced.
I have some questions that I'm hoping someone can answer:
1. Does one or more coilpacks failing sound right as to why this shaking is happening?
2. The mechanic is charging me $660+: $480+ for the 6 coils, and $180 for 2 hours of labor. I thought that was a rip, but he said that the screws holding in the coilpacks are hard to take off. I tried taking them off myself and he's right. But does that sound around right, or am I getting ripped?
3. The mechanic already read the codes (none), and tested each of the coilpacks (no errors). However, I've read on here that it doesn't matter what the readings are; I have a '99 so I should replace the coilpacks (I have 76k on the odo). Sound right?
4. The mechanic recommends OEM coils. Aren't the Mitsubishis considered better?
Thanks in advance.
(edited to add more description about what's happening)
05-10-2005, 10:02 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 494
Originally Posted by nethack4ever
2. The mechanic is charging me $660+: $480+ for the 6 coils, and $180 for 2 hours of labor. I thought that was a rip, but he said that the screws holding in the coilpacks are hard to take off. I tried taking them off myself and he's right. But does that sound around right, or am I getting ripped?
idle problems.. any of you replaced throttle postion sensor?
05-10-2005, 10:07 PM
#19
Originally Posted by nethack4ever
1. Does one or more coilpacks failing sound right as to why this shaking is happening?
2. The mechanic is charging me $660+: $480+ for the 6 coils, and $180 for 2 hours of labor. I thought that was a rip, but he said that the screws holding in the coilpacks are hard to take off. I tried taking them off myself and he's right. But does that sound around right, or am I getting ripped?
3. The mechanic already read the codes (none), and tested each of the coilpacks (no errors). However, I've read on here that it doesn't matter what the readings are; I have a '99 so I should replace the coilpacks (I have 76k on the odo). Sound right?
4. The mechanic recommends OEM coils. Aren't the Mitsubishis considered better?
2. The mechanic is charging me $660+: $480+ for the 6 coils, and $180 for 2 hours of labor. I thought that was a rip, but he said that the screws holding in the coilpacks are hard to take off. I tried taking them off myself and he's right. But does that sound around right, or am I getting ripped?
3. The mechanic already read the codes (none), and tested each of the coilpacks (no errors). However, I've read on here that it doesn't matter what the readings are; I have a '99 so I should replace the coilpacks (I have 76k on the odo). Sound right?
4. The mechanic recommends OEM coils. Aren't the Mitsubishis considered better?
2. You are getting ripped so badly it is a shame. PLease save $180 in labor and change the sparks yourself, take literlly 15 mintues.
3. Coil packs shouldnt be changed at a specific milage, just once they fail replace, so the fact that he's saying you have 76,xxx on the clock and its time is BS. If he found no error on the coil packs why is he replacing them? Dont let him do it he wil replace them you'll pay and then come back later saying the problem is still there, they will charge you again to do more work.
4. there are the mitisbishi and hashin (sp?) coils I forgot which ones are better and have the longer life, I believe its the Hashin but both work well.
05-11-2005, 07:45 AM
#21
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
Originally Posted by MDeezy
1. yes a mis fire. Make sure that ALL your coils need changing you could just need one or two and they assume all which would be an expensive reapir on your behalf.
2. You are getting ripped so badly it is a shame. PLease save $180 in labor and change the sparks yourself, take literlly 15 mintues.
3. Coil packs shouldnt be changed at a specific milage, just once they fail replace, so the fact that he's saying you have 76,xxx on the clock and its time is BS. If he found no error on the coil packs why is he replacing them? Dont let him do it he wil replace them you'll pay and then come back later saying the problem is still there, they will charge you again to do more work.
4. there are the mitisbishi and hashin (sp?) coils I forgot which ones are better and have the longer life, I believe its the Hashin but both work well.
2. You are getting ripped so badly it is a shame. PLease save $180 in labor and change the sparks yourself, take literlly 15 mintues.
3. Coil packs shouldnt be changed at a specific milage, just once they fail replace, so the fact that he's saying you have 76,xxx on the clock and its time is BS. If he found no error on the coil packs why is he replacing them? Dont let him do it he wil replace them you'll pay and then come back later saying the problem is still there, they will charge you again to do more work.
4. there are the mitisbishi and hashin (sp?) coils I forgot which ones are better and have the longer life, I believe its the Hashin but both work well.
I cancelled the mechanic's appointment and will order the Mitsubishis, as someone else here suggested. Any good places online to order them?
Thanks a lot for everyone's suggestions!
05-11-2005, 08:18 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
Originally Posted by killcrap
the clip part is the easeiest part.
05-12-2005, 11:06 AM
#24
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
OK, so I went out again and tried to remove the clip. I pushed down on the green tab with the arrow on it, and pulled like crazy. The thing is just not coming off. I must be doing something wrong. Anyone have any tips on how to loosen this? Sorry for asking such a basic question - I only recently started getting into anything beyond a simple oil change. TIA.
05-12-2005, 11:59 AM
#25
Originally Posted by nethack4ever
OK, so I went out again and tried to remove the clip. I pushed down on the green tab with the arrow on it, and pulled like crazy. The thing is just not coming off. I must be doing something wrong. Anyone have any tips on how to loosen this? Sorry for asking such a basic question - I only recently started getting into anything beyond a simple oil change. TIA.
I remember that mine came of really easy (96), but my buddy's 2000 clips were a pain pry off...
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